ive had my volt tester on the car.

 

 

i tested the loom in the engine bay where it meets each of the injectors

 

(i have removed the standard yellow connectors as were full of the green gunk, and replaced with speaker spades)

 

 

they both showing 12+ at the loom, when connected to the injectors :eek:

 

disconnected the loom from the injectors, then tested again, one of them shows 12+, the other shows 0 (when engine off) as should :)

 

then the negative wire shows -8ish (fluctuates) then when turning over. as should :)

 

 

ive tested the wires at the ECU also, and results are same as above.

 

(test was done by posotive terminal on battery, then voltmeter, then the negatives on the loom and negatives on ECU)

 

 

so thers a problem when the wires from the loom are connected to the injector, as when connected they both show 12+ at all times.

 

 

think i need new standard conenctors, as my home made speaker spade ones are shit. where to get em?

 

 

any other ideas apart from this? the car didnt start before this, but im asuming it was due to the heavy corrosion of the standard ones

 

is the negative signals a bit too low or is that ok ?(iv just re-charged the battery, 13 volts direct from it)

 

so thers a problem when the wires from the loom are connected to the injector, as when connected they both show 12+ at all times.

 

is the negative signals a bit too low or is that ok ?(iv just re-charged the battery, 13 volts direct from it)

 

Hi there,

 

A little bit of knowledge always has the potential to mystify!

 

The 12 volt reading you are getting at both terminals when the injectors are connected is completely correct, I will explain, the 12v supply is entering the coil windings of the injector and feeding back out through the other side, this is the side that when switched off is isolated from any outputs from the ecu so your volt meter /tester will pick it up, once the engine is cranked then earth pulse signals come down the output cables which is why the readings your getting changes.

 

 

The tester you are using is not really fully compliant with testing injectors, what you really need is a noid light set, this react to the pulses and light up in sequence with the outputs, volt meters especially the old swing needle ones are too slow.

 

Noid lights also show any signal strength differences between injectors by virtue of their brightness.

 

Hope hat helps

 

Jeff TT

Edited July 14, 200917 yr by JeffTT

Hi Z32,

 

i can get you new injector connectors £7.50 each. all you have to do is cut back the loom and splice in the new connectors. Also if you have a dremel type drill use it to clean up the injector pins.

zedwizz, whats your e-mail?

 

 

Jeff:

 

 

so what will the noid lights tell me?

 

i know that negative signals are beig sent from the ECU, as have tested that with the volt meter.

 

im confused, as the injectors have posotive at all time, when i turn the engine over the ECU sends the negative signals, and the signals are also at the loom the other end?

 

RAC diagnostics have said the is no negative signals, yet ive tested the ECU and loom and found there is??

What Jeff is saying is the injectors have a constant 12v supply and the ecu switches the earth and varies injector opening by the length of the earth pulse.A multimeter as Jeff states will not be able to show the variation in voltage as the rise and fall is so quick.A noid light or oscilliscope is the usual means of checking.oscilliscopes are expensive so that leaves a noid light.they are plugged in between the injector and the loom.

email:

 

zedwizz@aol.com

What Jeff is saying is the injectors have a constant 12v supply and the ecu switches the earth and varies injector opening by the length of the earth pulse.A multimeter as Jeff states will not be able to show the variation in voltage as the rise and fall is so quick.A noid light or oscilliscope is the usual means of checking.oscilliscopes are expensive so that leaves a noid light.they are plugged in between the injector and the loom.

 

ok thanks for that.

 

but what is the Noid light going to tell me then?

 

 

if there is no correct negative signal coming from the ECU i imagine.

 

think its best if i try the ECU on another car?

 

i just cant understand where the fault is, or how the noid light is going to point it out? :cry:

This might help mate have a read.

 

http://www.noidlight.com/how-to-use-a-noid-light/

ah i understand.

 

 

so just becasue the VOLT meter is picking up "some" signal at the end of the loom, and fresh from the ECU,

 

it could be the wrong voltage, or the wrong "speed" of the negative signals.

 

so the voltmeter cant pick them up as not quick enough, only a Noid light can.

 

 

so its either the injectors are toast, the Loom, or the ECU.

 

i doubt its the loom, as electricity is going through it, so no breaks. the injectors were fine previously, and doubt all 6 have gone.

 

my money is on the ECU.

 

 

Will getting a Noid light be able to tell me if its the ECU or the Loom?

 

i mean can you test the ECU pin outs with a noid light? (one terminal on 12+ constant, the ECU negative?)

Or you have no fuel to the injectors

Or you have no fuel to the injectors

 

no its not that, theres plenty fuel, pump primes etc etc,

 

i know there are no negative signals as car has been on diagnostics as not starting

Are you popping down with the ECU tomorrow?

hi ant,

 

yes i think i will if thats ok, what times best for you? im off work all week :)

After 6 is fine or Friday afternoon.

The tester you are using is not really fully compliant with testing injectors, what you really need is a noid light set, this react to the pulses and light up in sequence with the outputs, volt meters especially the old swing needle ones are too slow.

 

Noid lights also show any signal strength differences between injectors by virtue of their brightness.

 

Thanks for confirming my suggestion originally made on June 20th:D

 

Are you getting an electrical signal at the injector?????

You need to test this with a Noid light.

Thanks for confirming my suggestion originally made on June 20th:D

 

sorry pete, the garage/RAC diagnostics just told me that the injectors wernt getting neg signals, so asumed theyd alreadys used one.

 

i bought a noid light yesterday, so will be testing when receive.

 

im off down anthony d's later to test the ECU.

 

 

will post results if ECU works tonight :smash:

fingers crossed...

ok,

 

tried the ECU on anthony D's car. ECU works fine.

 

 

put noid lights on the injector loom/connectors,

 

noid light flashes on each one. (this is normal i beleive) DOESNT stay on, or just not light up. it flashes as you turn the car over.

 

 

lent a working CAS, plugged it in, spun with the ignition on,

 

with the fuel pump fuse in, the injectors click,

 

with the fuel pump fuse out, they dont click.

 

 

if above is correct, fault must be else where? or is this wrong?

 

is this the correct way the pipes go from the fuel filter?

 

 

i must add tho, i just plugged anthonys CAS into the loom to spin to listen to the clicks.

 

i havent swapped his working CAS to mine then tried starting car.

 

 

any views on my previous posts? with the noid light etc?

MORE of updarte lol :)

 

 

spun the CAS, can hear only 1 injector clicking!

 

tried each injector 1 by 1.

 

 

so i know that injector is working, and has signal going to it from that loom.

 

 

tried the working loom on a different injector. no clicks.

 

may have narrowed it down to the injectors themselves :cool:

 

maybe?

How many others have you tried?

i tried another 1 thats all, by using the known loom on that injector.

 

guess should have tried the others,

 

 

but only the 1 is clicking :confused:

 

odd that 5 of them would go same time? but the noid light flashes on all the other injector connectors?

If you replaced the original injector connectors, are you sure that the new terminals are the right way round where they plug into the injector?

tested each injecrtor with ohm meter, direct at the injector they are in spec.

 

 

 

however, at the end of my new home made connections (with speaker spades)

 

the reading is crap! 0.something, 1. sonething,

 

 

so its obviously my bad home made connections. gonna order some new ones, correct ones, only 45 quid for set of 6.

 

gotta work then!

 

 

 

If you replaced the original injector connectors, are you sure that the new terminals are the right way round where they plug into the injector?

 

i am unsure, are injectors polarity sensative? i know which wire is = on the loom, but not the injector? does it matter? how i find out?