TheRealNips

What about the £58bn we would lose in trade? Increase in road tax and even more potholes i feel...

Be Careful. With windows 8 there was the Full version, the Full pro version and then there was the "upgrade versions" i.e If you already had normal windows 8, you buy the pro upgrade pack for very little and you got upgraded to windows pro. Im not sure about Windows 10 as its still a free upgrade, but always check what the product is. I have 4 copies of windows 8 pro bought 2nd had on ebay and when I have to re-install for whatever reason, I install 8, then do the free upgrade.

I assume that we would be able to travel Europe, but we would either need visas (like when you go to America or Canada, they would be available on arrival) or the UK would have to sign up to the EU Freedom of Movement Treaty like Norway and Switzerland do. However that would still allow people immigrate into this country, therefore making one of the main "leave" arguments pointless... So the way I see it, by leaving and therefore restricting immigration, on a quid pro quo the EU would restrict our immigration and tourism visitations. This also leads to another question; What about the 2.2m Brits living in the EU? Will they be forced out and back here? Will they need visas to live there? Will they be able to claim their pensions/benefits there as they do now? I really think this vote is floored as there are too many "what ifs" for regular citizens like us to think about let alone understand.

I may have opened a can of worms here... :oops: Everyone is entitled to their view and we should all respect that. If everyone thought the same, we would be in 1984! :lol: I feel that although the EU is not perfect, its benefits to us as a nation are greater in number than the cons. The EU needs changes and countries should be able to govern themselves more, but its difficult as there are some many people, so many cultures, so many unique local things that each country/province/ parish has. At the end of the day, the EU is paving the way in something we as a species has never done before (coalition between cultures, people working together for the greater good), there will be teething problems as we have never done this before. I feel that it would be a shame to throw it all away because the daily mail (and other publications) can make headlines from it. Things can only change and improve by people working at it and getting involved, by leaving I feel its a cope out to everything we have achieved together. Thats how I feel, you can agree or disagree, but mocking is not allowed! :lol:

Without wanting to start an argument here, Im just curious as to what people want to vote or if they haven't made up their minds.

Ive got 225/50/16 on OEM rims on the front. They are Falkens and so far are really good. I've got 245/45/16 on OEM rims on the back. They are Toyo as thats the only tyre that BlackCircles had that would fit Both sizes are stock sizes from the manual, however from a distance the rear tires look low profile and the fronts look like offroad tyres, its a bit strange. I looked at all 4 of my mates 300zx and they are the same, even his Supra is the same, small looking rears and larger looking fronts. Annoying but thats the way Nissan wanted it I guess...

I need a steering rack in good condition. I have a 1990 NA LWB jap import (i dont know if all racks are the same, but just incase) Mine is just starting to weep on offside (MOT advisory) and the "inner tie rod" are corroded (MOT advisory) so I would prefer to change it now and have a clean MOT sheet as it were! Ive added a picture of the bit thats corroded just incase Its labeled "Inner Tie Rod"

Ok, it went for another test yesterday as the first garage couldnt do it monday and it ran out of its retest window. Different MOT tester and he found both headlights aim are wrong, illegal number plate (but he said he wouldnt have flagged it, but because the previous tester put it on the system, he has to now. He doesnt think its illegal) and he found more rust. The rust will be welded up, number plate changed and headlights adjusted and then she has a pass! Interestingly we drove the car to the garage (10miles), car was at running temperature, idle emissions were done at 1200rpm and its was WELL below the pass level. So im not sure what the other tester did! I still need to solve this high idle and hesitating annoyance, but atleast it will have a pass!

My reverse lights work, so im guessing the reverse switch is working. Ill check the neutral switch. i found on here that linking Pin 20 & 4 for the Reverse on the Auto ECU and linking Pin 44 & 50 for the Neutral on the Main ECU sorts that out. Ill check the timing as well. The annoying thing is that some times the car will idle about 750 with the AC off. but as soon as you use the gas, the car hesitates then revs, then it takes ages for the revs to drop back down from where ever you rev'ed it to.

I didn't convert it, but the previous owner did and if its like anything else he did to the car, its going to have been done badly. Is there a list of things I can check through on a conversion? I know its not a simple as change box and add clutch pedal...

It was a non cat idle CO2 test. The left bank was 6.68 and the right bank was 5.83. I think. I can scan and up load the print outs when I get home if it helps. We suspect the car was left idling at about 2000-2500 rpm for the test, but as i wasn't there I can't confirm. My friend is taking it for a cane to get it really hot then get the retest done at 4pm with the heater/AC off. Fingers crossed...

Ok, all bits are done except the emissions. I changed the temp sensor at the front of the engine, but it hasnt seemed to have made a difference. Ever since I bought this car its had an idle issue. It always idles around 2000rpm with the heater on and around 1500rpm when its off. when you start it and sometimes when in a low gear the engine will rev its self. The power light flashes on the dash when it revs. It also has steam (atleast i think its steam, its not smoke that i can tell) that is easy to see when cold and under load, but once warmed up and idling isnt there. The inside of the exhausts are sooty and black. I think all these things are connected and have change the temp sensor, the MAF and fiddled with the throttle position sensor. Im thinking of changing the lambda sensor next and or the sensors after the cats. does anyone have any ideas?

Ive got a 15m flymo orange cable to attached to the back of the car...

Nips was my nickname at school, I used to use nips_uk, but changed it to the real nips after seeing someone on the PSN with a nips handle.

Whoever rolled up in that semi has more style than any of the cars. Takes balls to turn up to a car meet in one of those!

Driver side sill. *cries* what have I bought? :lol: Luckily I have a mate (soon to be best mate, then later ill be his hated enemy I suspect) who is a professional welder and he is going to teach/show/do the welding. Im looking forward to it, but it could be argued that finding a easier first project would have been better! Still being thrown in the deep end is fun and he is there if anything goes wrong. Next step (next monday) is start cutting bits away and build the inner bit up. I guess i need to order the sills from Zcentre... Ill keep this updated for people who want to laugh and watch a man slowly struggle and punish himself!

So today I pulled out the car interior. Partly to check for rust and mostly to make sure I don.t set fire to it while welding (never welded before, so who know what will happen!) The good news is there is no rust on the inside. not a single bit. It looks like a new car :lol: Its got all its original bits targa bags/jacks/speakers/amps etc and it hasn't been messed with with amps or large speakers. I then jacked the car up and started taking bits off such as the bumper, exhaust etc to look at how back the rust actually is and well, ill let the pictures tells the story... Near side sub frame mounting, please note sub frame not attached to car because bolts missing and bits bolts bolt into missing!!! Near side subframe and drive shaft. I think a sand blast and a powder coat will bring back the sub frame. Boot Floor. Looks pretty good and solid, although ill need to do all the brake lines... Offiside sill and subframe. err.. how to put this politely? The titanic has less holes and rust...? Offside arch. *starts to whimper*

So after looking since October 2015 Ive found a workshop, of sorts... Its a 40ft container with a window cut in it and water and electricity, all for £15/week. Im allowed to do anything I like in it, as the landlord said, he doesnt care. He said it it catches fire, it will only burn everything inside anyway! Ive got a work shop area at the end, car in the middle and space at the front for a modern chic living/dining area... i mean space to dump stuff like bonnets and interior bits etc! Width is a bit tight, Ive parked the car against one wall to allow maximum space and ive got just enough space to work in, so far...

My wife is returning to China (Chengdu) for 3 weeks. If anyone has bought/would like to buy anything, she may have space in her luggage. Just let me know. Also many things can be found cheaper behind the Great Wall, so my wife might be able to source things (car related or not) for you. For example we do most of our Christmas shopping list from china and saved about £250 than buying it all here. So if you need anything, just let me know.

When parcels turn up for me, This is the conversation: Wife: "are those for your baby?" Me: " Wife: "do I want to know how much?" Me: "no you dont". Wife laughs: "atleast your not spending it on another woman..." :lol:

Well it failed. I knew it would as some of the work hadnt been finished. - offside Seat belt anchorage prescribed area is excessively corroded floorpan. (not sure how I missed this, ill get that welded) - front registration plate displaying a honeycomb or similar effect background (This wasnt an issue last year, i hadnt even noticed to be honest. have the rules changed?) - offside Headlamp aim too high and too far to the left. (Im surprised they didnt just do this there and then and not bother listing it) - nearside Headlamp aim too far to the left (As above) - offside Steering rack gaiter split (knew it would fail on this, have the part) - nearside rear Anti-roll bar linkage fractured (have the parts) - nearside Brake pipe leaking front to rear (This surprised me as it hasnt left any mess anywhere and havent noticed anything with the pedal...) - Exhaust emissions carbon monoxide content excessive (Any ideas on this one!? Lamba sensor? Cat dying?) - Service brake: efficiency below requirements (im guessing to do with the brake leak) - Parking brake: efficiency below requirements (Tighten the cable?) Advisory notice item(s) - offside front lower Suspension arm ball joint dust cover deteriorated, but preventing the ingress of dirt - offside Track rod end ball joint dust cover deteriorated, but preventing the ingress of dirt - front Brake pad(s) wearing thin - corrosion on offside outer sill - front lower cross member corroded - front to rear brake pipes corroded most of this will be done tomorrow, but I would like to sort out the advisories too: - Is there a kit to change the ball joint dust covers? - While im at it I would like to go round the car and change all bushes (maybe to poly bushes) is there an all-in-one-kit i can buy? I was planning on doing all the discs and pads too, so thats not an issue. Am I also right in saying that copper 10mm is the right size for brake pipes? Also does any one have any braided pipes for sale? I might as well change those while im at it...

The place a grew up (Youth Hostel) had a George for cleaning carpets. It has a water tank for water(!) and a cleaner, pumps it as a spray to the hose, you spray it on and slowly drag the hoover bit over the stain. Used to clean most things off anything...

Is yours an import? Mine is and doesn't show up on any database. I have to manually type everything in on websites like insurance etc... The rare occasion it does pop up as a 300zx, it thinks its a Z31. Once I got an insurance quote for £61, until I thought "wait a minute...."

Thanks for the tips Jeff. I have ordered the drop links and found this on the interweb http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=483&cat=87&sub=126&sec=129&var=37&dc=0&gen=&searchKey=&searchPart= So I did some research and on the subaru forums they are a well know website, so I ordered 2 boots and will see. If ive been ripped off paypal can refund me and if they cant Ive lost a tenner. Ill let people know...

It does, but when you leave it as long as I do and it keeps recording every roundabout it soon fills up. I could go slower round corners, but where's the fun in that? :lol: