Lead up to MOT

[TheRealNips]

Ive had a few things done on the lead up to my MOT (spot of welding, tyres, etc) but yesterday during a fake MOT I have found the N/S rear anti roll bar drop link has snapped between the lower thread and the link (smooth bar section) so I need some links. Also the O/S steering rack gaitor looks like its been mauled by a tiger and is hanging off by a thread. A garage also advised me that the rear discs, pads, shoes and fittings could do with a change although off the record (!) he said they would be find for the MOT!

 

A quick google (ebay actually) has found me this:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-300-ZX-1984-1990-FRONT-PAIR-STABILISER-ANTI-ROLL-BAR-DROP-LINK-x-2-/291420859604?fits=Model%3A300+ZX&hash=item43da096cd4:g:DLoAAOSwrx5UU5Ug

 

and this:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAPSPEED-NISSAN-200SX-S13-S14-S15-300ZX-Z32-REAR-ANTI-ROLL-BAR-DROP-LINKS-/151534563607?fits=Model%3A300+ZX&hash=item234829f117:g:ZeoAAOSwDwtUoq1v

 

I might as well do all 4.

 

Im struggling to find a steering rack gaitor though. Also I was looking for the seals for the rack as it is a tiny bit damp there (im guessing the gaitor has been off for a while and the seals are just starting to go)

 

Does any one have the bits I need and I could purchase here to help someone out?

 

Thanks

 

p.s Black circles is where I got my two new tyres (245/45/16) on OEM rims. There was only one tyre, a toyo one. is that right? Is it really such a rare sized wheel/tyre combo?

[Funkysi]

Ive had a few things done on the lead up to my MOT (spot of welding, tyres, etc) but yesterday during a fake MOT I have found the N/S rear anti roll bar drop link has snapped between the lower thread and the link (smooth bar section) so I need some links. Also the O/S steering rack gaitor looks like its been mauled by a tiger and is hanging off by a thread. A garage also advised me that the rear discs, pads, shoes and fittings could do with a change although off the record (!) he said they would be find for the MOT!

 

A quick google (ebay actually) has found me this:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-300-ZX-1984-1990-FRONT-PAIR-STABILISER-ANTI-ROLL-BAR-DROP-LINK-x-2-/291420859604?fits=Model%3A300+ZX&hash=item43da096cd4:g:DLoAAOSwrx5UU5Ug

 

and this:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAPSPEED-NISSAN-200SX-S13-S14-S15-300ZX-Z32-REAR-ANTI-ROLL-BAR-DROP-LINKS-/151534563607?fits=Model%3A300+ZX&hash=item234829f117:g:ZeoAAOSwDwtUoq1v

 

I might as well do all 4.

 

Im struggling to find a steering rack gaitor though. Also I was looking for the seals for the rack as it is a tiny bit damp there (im guessing the gaitor has been off for a while and the seals are just starting to go)

 

Does any one have the bits I need and I could purchase here to help someone out?

 

Thanks

 

p.s Black circles is where I got my two new tyres (245/45/16) on OEM rims. There was only one tyre, a toyo one. is that right? Is it really such a rare sized wheel/tyre combo?

 

Not totally sure on the seal kit for the rack. I'm not aware there was a seal kit available, from Nissan or otherwise.

 

Steering rack gaitors, I'd always buy brand new, these can be found here: http://www.zcentre.co.uk/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.pbv.tpl&product_id=241&category_id=62&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=7

[JeffTT]

The link you have for the front drop links is wrong that`s for a Z31 !

 

These are the correct ones:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-300ZX-Z32-90-94-FRONT-STABILIZER-DROP-LINK-BAR-2-/190466910097

 

The genuine Nissan steering gaiters are very expensive in my view for what is effectively a rubber boot, a motor factor will be able to supply at vastly reduced price under a tenner for pattern part.

 

Jeff

[TheRealNips]

The link you have for the front drop links is wrong that`s for a Z31 !

 

These are the correct ones:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-300ZX-Z32-90-94-FRONT-STABILIZER-DROP-LINK-BAR-2-/190466910097

 

The genuine Nissan steering gaiters are very expensive in my view for what is effectively a rubber boot, a motor factor will be able to supply at vastly reduced price under a tenner for pattern part.

 

Jeff

 

Ive ordered the drop links, the correct ones! thanks for that.

 

Im planning on taking my boot into a car part place and them sourcing one as im struggling to find any on line (except the £34 zedcentre one, thats £68 for two, ouch)...

 

Any tips on sites I can go to, or just go with my plan?

[JeffTT]

Ive ordered the drop links, the correct ones! thanks for that.

 

Im planning on taking my boot into a car part place and them sourcing one as im struggling to find any on line (except the £34 zedcentre one, thats £68 for two, ouch)...

 

Any tips on sites I can go to, or just go with my plan?

 

Yes that will do it, unfortunately it has slipped my mind which one but its a Vauxhall one think an Astra , may look a slightly different but fits fine and will do the job, the make of the company is First Line ( they make loads of stuff ) come in a box of two with cable ties ready to fit.

 

One tip, when releasing the track rod end to change the gaiter, the usually method to release the ball joint taper after loosening the nut is to to strike the hub body around the ball joint to shock it loose, can take a couple of hits, before getting close to hitting anything remove the abs sensor and tie it up out of the way,otherwise you risk the shock been transmitted into the sensor and breaking it.

 

Jeff

[TheRealNips]

Thanks for the tips Jeff.

 

I have ordered the drop links and found this on the interweb

 

http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=483&cat=87&sub=126&sec=129&var=37&dc=0&gen=&searchKey=&searchPart=

 

So I did some research and on the subaru forums they are a well know website, so I ordered 2 boots and will see. If ive been ripped off paypal can refund me and if they cant Ive lost a tenner. Ill let people know...

[JeffTT]

Thanks for the tips Jeff.

 

I have ordered the drop links and found this on the interweb

 

http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=483&cat=87&sub=126&sec=129&var=37&dc=0&gen=&searchKey=&searchPart=

 

So I did some research and on the subaru forums they are a well know website, so I ordered 2 boots and will see. If ive been ripped off paypal can refund me and if they cant Ive lost a tenner. Ill let people know...

 

You will be fine with them, used them myself for parts.

 

Jeff

[TheRealNips]

Well it failed. I knew it would as some of the work hadnt been finished.

 

- offside Seat belt anchorage prescribed area is excessively corroded floorpan. (not sure how I missed this, ill get that welded)

- front registration plate displaying a honeycomb or similar effect background (This wasnt an issue last year, i hadnt even noticed to be honest. have the rules changed?)

- offside Headlamp aim too high and too far to the left. (Im surprised they didnt just do this there and then and not bother listing it)

- nearside Headlamp aim too far to the left (As above)

- offside Steering rack gaiter split (knew it would fail on this, have the part)

- nearside rear Anti-roll bar linkage fractured (have the parts)

- nearside Brake pipe leaking front to rear (This surprised me as it hasnt left any mess anywhere and havent noticed anything with the pedal...)

- Exhaust emissions carbon monoxide content excessive (Any ideas on this one!? Lamba sensor? Cat dying?)

- Service brake: efficiency below requirements (im guessing to do with the brake leak)

- Parking brake: efficiency below requirements (Tighten the cable?)

 

Advisory notice item(s)

- offside front lower Suspension arm ball joint dust cover deteriorated, but preventing the ingress of dirt

- offside Track rod end ball joint dust cover deteriorated, but preventing the ingress of dirt

- front Brake pad(s) wearing thin

- corrosion on offside outer sill

- front lower cross member corroded

- front to rear brake pipes corroded

 

most of this will be done tomorrow, but I would like to sort out the advisories too:

 

- Is there a kit to change the ball joint dust covers?

- While im at it I would like to go round the car and change all bushes (maybe to poly bushes) is there an all-in-one-kit i can buy?

 

I was planning on doing all the discs and pads too, so thats not an issue.

 

Am I also right in saying that copper 10mm is the right size for brake pipes?

Also does any one have any braided pipes for sale? I might as well change those while im at it...

[Alic]

Well it failed. I knew it would as some of the work hadnt been finished.

 

- offside Seat belt anchorage prescribed area is excessively corroded floorpan. (not sure how I missed this, ill get that welded)

- front registration plate displaying a honeycomb or similar effect background (This wasnt an issue last year, i hadnt even noticed to be honest. have the rules changed?)

- offside Headlamp aim too high and too far to the left. (Im surprised they didnt just do this there and then and not bother listing it)

- nearside Headlamp aim too far to the left (As above)

- offside Steering rack gaiter split (knew it would fail on this, have the part)

- nearside rear Anti-roll bar linkage fractured (have the parts)

- nearside Brake pipe leaking front to rear (This surprised me as it hasnt left any mess anywhere and havent noticed anything with the pedal...)

- Exhaust emissions carbon monoxide content excessive (Any ideas on this one!? Lamba sensor? Cat dying?)

- Service brake: efficiency below requirements (im guessing to do with the brake leak)

- Parking brake: efficiency below requirements (Tighten the cable?)

 

Advisory notice item(s)

- offside front lower Suspension arm ball joint dust cover deteriorated, but preventing the ingress of dirt

- offside Track rod end ball joint dust cover deteriorated, but preventing the ingress of dirt

- front Brake pad(s) wearing thin

- corrosion on offside outer sill

- front lower cross member corroded

- front to rear brake pipes corroded

 

most of this will be done tomorrow, but I would like to sort out the advisories too:

 

- Is there a kit to change the ball joint dust covers?

- While im at it I would like to go round the car and change all bushes (maybe to poly bushes) is there an all-in-one-kit i can buy?

 

I was planning on doing all the discs and pads too, so thats not an issue.

 

Am I also right in saying that copper 10mm is the right size for brake pipes?

Also does any one have any braided pipes for sale? I might as well change those while im at it...

 

Didn't i read somewhere in another thread that with old cars/imports they stopped doing these checks?

 

Any z registered before August 1995 does not have a cat test done during mot.

[Slick Pete.]

Didn't i read somewhere in another thread that with old cars/imports they stopped doing these checks?

 

Non database pre Aug 95 cars still have to pass a Basic Emissions Test.

[Chrisbasildon]

You would need to check your emissions report to see what kind of test they put your car through, should have been a non catalyst test with co reading no more than 3.50 (Providing your zed is pre august 1995).

 

As long as your reg plate is just the honeycomb background this is not a failure as it only applies to vehicles registered 2003 on.

 

As for the service brake you would need to know which axle/side was letting the readings down if any, may have been a low effort on both rear wheels but I can't help without knowing more info.

 

And as for the parking brake effort NEVER just tighten cable. You must first make sure your cables are de-adjusted, remove discs and check your shoes/adjusters and springs and the inside of the discs then refit your discs if all ok, adjust the shoes through the hole until they only just touch the disc and de-adjust half a turn, then adjust your cables to only remove the slack, do not adjust until the shoes begin to expand.

 

The other bits are really obvious to solve, all in all not a lot to do really, maybe the corrosion repair may be tricky depending on how bad it is. Good luck with it bud.

[TheRealNips]

Ok, all bits are done except the emissions. I changed the temp sensor at the front of the engine, but it hasnt seemed to have made a difference. Ever since I bought this car its had an idle issue. It always idles around 2000rpm with the heater on and around 1500rpm when its off. when you start it and sometimes when in a low gear the engine will rev its self. The power light flashes on the dash when it revs. It also has steam (atleast i think its steam, its not smoke that i can tell) that is easy to see when cold and under load, but once warmed up and idling isnt there. The inside of the exhausts are sooty and black.

 

I think all these things are connected and have change the temp sensor, the MAF and fiddled with the throttle position sensor. Im thinking of changing the lambda sensor next and or the sensors after the cats. does anyone have any ideas?

[Chrisbasildon]

Ok, all bits are done except the emissions. I changed the temp sensor at the front of the engine, but it hasnt seemed to have made a difference. Ever since I bought this car its had an idle issue. It always idles around 2000rpm with the heater on and around 1500rpm when its off. when you start it and sometimes when in a low gear the engine will rev its self. The power light flashes on the dash when it revs. It also has steam (atleast i think its steam, its not smoke that i can tell) that is easy to see when cold and under load, but once warmed up and idling isnt there. The inside of the exhausts are sooty and black.

 

I think all these things are connected and have change the temp sensor, the MAF and fiddled with the throttle position sensor. Im thinking of changing the lambda sensor next and or the sensors after the cats. does anyone have any ideas?

 

What was your initial test results for emissions?

[dougal200]

Honestly with the emissions you need to get the engine set up correctly, no air leaks, timing adjusted, idle valve set tps correct voltage and in idle position. To do this properly you need data scan etc , a timing light and a boost leak checker.

 

As per the other posts, I'm sure they are testing to the wrong standard

[Chrisbasildon]

Honestly with the emissions you need to get the engine set up correctly, no air leaks, timing adjusted, idle valve set tps correct voltage and in idle position. To do this properly you need data scan etc , a timing light and a boost leak checker.

 

As per the other posts, I'm sure they are testing to the wrong standard

 

Yes this is why the op needs to check his emissions report, although not running 100% the emissions may be within spec if tested to the right criteria, at least it will produce a valid mot, then problems can be ironed out to get it back to full power.

[Slick Pete.]

Ok, all bits are done except the emissions. I changed the temp sensor at the front of the engine, but it hasnt seemed to have made a difference. Ever since I bought this car its had an idle issue. It always idles around 2000rpm with the heater on and around 1500rpm when its off. when you start it and sometimes when in a low gear the engine will rev its self. The power light flashes on the dash when it revs. It also has steam (atleast i think its steam, its not smoke that i can tell) that is easy to see when cold and under load, but once warmed up and idling isnt there. The inside of the exhausts are sooty and black.

 

I think all these things are connected and have change the temp sensor, the MAF and fiddled with the throttle position sensor. Im thinking of changing the lambda sensor next and or the sensors after the cats. does anyone have any ideas?

 

In order for any one to make helpful and meaninful suggestions we need to see the results of the "Emissions test"

 

Chrisbasildon has already asked about this.... as has Dougal 200

 

You would need to check your emissions report to see what kind of test they put your car through, should have been a non catalyst test with co reading no more than 3.50

 

What was your initial test results for emissions?

 

As per the other posts, I'm sure they are testing to the wrong standard

 

It is remarkably common for inexperienced MOT testers to get this wrong

 

Once we can establish how its been tested we can then move on to finding a resolution to the failure.

[TheRealNips]

It was a non cat idle CO2 test. The left bank was 6.68 and the right bank was 5.83. I think. I can scan and up load the print outs when I get home if it helps. We suspect the car was left idling at about 2000-2500 rpm for the test, but as i wasn't there I can't confirm. My friend is taking it for a cane to get it really hot then get the retest done at 4pm with the heater/AC off. Fingers crossed...

[Stephen]

Yeah that's not right and a drive prob won't help. You need to get that engine set up. Warm idle should 750rpm.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Have you converted this car from auto to manual by any chance?

[TheRealNips]

Yeah that's not right and a drive prob won't help. You need to get that engine set up. Warm idle should 750rpm.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Have you converted this car from auto to manual by any chance?

 

I didn't convert it, but the previous owner did and if its like anything else he did to the car, its going to have been done badly. Is there a list of things I can check through on a conversion? I know its not a simple as change box and add clutch pedal...

[Stephen]

Right.

Firstly it would appear he has done the reverse switch, else you would of had that flagged up. Check it anyway. Do they illuminate in R with the ignition on.

Secondly, is the neutral switch in use. You will see this most easily by pulling back the carpet and inspecting pin 44 which is likely spliced.

Check the timing when up to temperature, if it's done right it should be 15btdc iirc or without the neutral switch 20btdc.

Once warm with the AC off etc it should idle at 750ish.

If it doesn't and the timing etc are correct firstly check for boost leaks. Then check the TPS. If all that's good then unplug the idle switch connector and reduce the idle speed to the correct level and reconnect.

[TheRealNips]

Right.

Firstly it would appear he has done the reverse switch, else you would of had that flagged up. Check it anyway. Do they illuminate in R with the ignition on.

Secondly, is the neutral switch in use. You will see this most easily by pulling back the carpet and inspecting pin 44 which is likely spliced.

Check the timing when up to temperature, if it's done right it should be 15btdc iirc or without the neutral switch 20btdc.

Once warm with the AC off etc it should idle at 750ish.

If it doesn't and the timing etc are correct firstly check for boost leaks. Then check the TPS. If all that's good then unplug the idle switch connector and reduce the idle speed to the correct level and reconnect.

 

My reverse lights work, so im guessing the reverse switch is working. Ill check the neutral switch. i found on here that linking Pin 20 & 4 for the Reverse on the Auto ECU and linking Pin 44 & 50 for the Neutral on the Main ECU sorts that out. Ill check the timing as well. The annoying thing is that some times the car will idle about 750 with the AC off. but as soon as you use the gas, the car hesitates then revs, then it takes ages for the revs to drop back down from where ever you rev'ed it to.

[Stephen]

Get it warm and repeat with the idle valve disconnected. Sounds like it's gummed up a bit.

[TheRealNips]

Ok, it went for another test yesterday as the first garage couldnt do it monday and it ran out of its retest window. Different MOT tester and he found both headlights aim are wrong, illegal number plate (but he said he wouldnt have flagged it, but because the previous tester put it on the system, he has to now. He doesnt think its illegal) and he found more rust. The rust will be welded up, number plate changed and headlights adjusted and then she has a pass! Interestingly we drove the car to the garage (10miles), car was at running temperature, idle emissions were done at 1200rpm and its was WELL below the pass level. So im not sure what the other tester did! I still need to solve this high idle and hesitating annoyance, but atleast it will have a pass!