Funkysi

He's fine I think. Pretty sure his missus has just given birth. I'm sure he's up to his eyes and ears in vomit and faeces.

He's got his main beam on, you can see as he sweeps the corner, it totally switches off.

No US spec cars have sidelights in the headlights. They have them in the corner indicator lenses.

Just had time to review that video properly. Obviously an error in him thinking they're sequential turbos. $30,000CAD is about $22,500USD which is the upper market values in north America. You must remember that US and Canadian values are substantially more than they are here. Prices always vary a lot more as you can get clunkers, as they call it for as little as a few thousand, but market values for high quality versions of popular retro cars a very high. The same goes for older classics too. 240zs also command a higher premium than they do here. The Z car range has a better public perception there than it does here. You can't compare the markets at all. Used cars in North America depreciate far less than they do in Europe anyway, especially compared to the UK market which is a really bizarre market. Car prices are higher, but so is depreciation. Still being built too. lol ;)

Don't do satin IMO. Also don't do the inside of the bumper aperture. For the accents around the indicators and the fogs and the recess in the rear (Impul) just go for a nice deep metallic grey. It'll give a cleaner look.

Price/value does matter whether you like it or not I'm afraid. Sorry dude, it might not to you, but it does to the majority of owners, either for insurance purposes (and that's a HUGE reason) or for a matter of interest as it shows its public perception.

FSM states: Front: Camber (degrees): - 1deg 35' to -0 deg 05' Caster (degrees): 9 deg 00' to 10 deg 30' Toe-in (mm): 0 - 2 Total toe-in angle (degrees): 0' - 11' Kingpin inclination (degrees): 12 deg 10' - 13 deg 40' Rear: Camber (degrees): -1 deg 35' to -0 deg 35' Toe-in (mm): 0 - 4 Total toe-in angle (degrees): 0' - 22'

Mine's gone way over £20k + the price of the car! I've never answered to anyone, so I never care. :) That's a snip in the ocean compared to some cars on here! Jaffa's and MadMax's for example are probably 5x that at least!

Get in touch with a friend of mine in the US called Ray Smelich, he's on my Facebook and has had experience with Haltech. Both his Z32s have it and I've driven both of them, they run and deliver power in a way I've never experienced before. If he doesn't know, try getting in touch with John Borchers (darkZideTT on twinturbo.net) who's helped build both of those cars (one is 875whp and the other is 650whp), John is REALLY technical and a really nice guy. Pretty sure Jaffa's car runs a Haltech.

:online2long:

My Z had Razo pedals on it when it was imported - first thing I did was to rip those hideous things off! Felt like you were driving with welly boots on! Useless pieces of shite! :lol:

The braided nylon lines require AN fittings. Get your boost issue sorted!! lol

That's the difference right there! Well put! The braided nylon hoses are about half the size of those great big universal jobbies and actually look the part of we're talking aesthetics.

PS.....you do realise your tyres are narrower than stock?

It's more to do with offset in your case. How much room have you got between spoke and caliper?

Since you asked mate and someone else seems to have got a bit of sand in their vagina, allow me to re-clarify. :) Unless you're fitting an expensive high pressure system with AN fittings and true braided lines and a top-feed fuel rail or similar, it really isn't worth fitting those cheap braided rubber lines. They're no more durable as what's inside is rubber sleeved. The stock fuel system doesn't really produce anything close to 'high pressure', so you won't have issues with hoses ballooning or loosing their integrity. Good quality rubber hoses, like new OEM items offer a good and 'known' solution.

His is a shorty, the boots are deeper as the fuel tank isn't under it.

They're interchangeable. I'm not sure on the actual map of the chip, but they'll run just fine.

This!!!

A mate of mine bought a brand new Cayman S when they were first launched (in essence, the hard top version of the Boxster). I had a drive in that and it was pretty nice. It was the handling and feel that I was impressed with more than anything else. Even compared to the 911 Turbos I've driven, I thought it was a very capable car.

Those cheap braided lines probably won't last half as long as the stock originals which are actually pretty good quality. I'm soon to be replacing mine with brand new OEM lines. Mine aren't leaking, I'm just future proofing it when I refit a powdercoated balance bar and hard-line. The only time I'd fit braided fuel lines (true braided fuel lines) is if I were to increase the fuel pressure substantially and wanted UNC couplers throughout.

Unless you're going to convert everything to AN joints when running a very high pressure fuel delivery system, I really wouldn't waste your time with braided fuel hose. I'd retain the solid hosing and fit new rubber couplers and rubber fuel lines. The pressure isn't enough really to make any difference and the inners are only rubber or silicone anyway and the braided rubber lines are flippin' ugly.

Don't waste your time with second hand connectors. Just get these unless you're not going for a replacement loom: http://www.zcentre.co.uk/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.pbv.tpl&product_id=92&category_id=67&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=7