tomfromthenorth

So having tried every combination. Either the clock is dead or the battery is providing the wrong flavour of electricity?

Oh good point. So could I try something with a laptop charger or phone charger???? - - - Updated - - - I'm going to go bang aren't I :lol:

I think it's a milliamp shortage... When it didn't work I tried every combination of + and - wiring A xar battery would be a bit heavy in the glass cabinet :lol:

I'm trying to make it function as a fun little curiosity in my trophy cabinet

I'm trying to make a 300zx clock run on a battery. I was all confident but I cant make it work. I thought the clock was a serviceable item. So I assume the battery has insufficient current??? I have been using crocodile clips and short lengths of wire to try and get it to do something but there are no signs of life at all. Any ideas? And does anyone know which wires are which. I thought black was earth, blue was live and the others are to dim it. Help please.

I do have my club sticker showing proudly on the port quarter window :biggrin:

Oh my God I'm famous haha :lol: I'm like a proud parent :biggrin: (I didn't send them that btw it just happened :))

Haha, I win HKS :biggrin: I managed to fit 3 gauges in there! It is not an easy thing to do though. The base of the glove box is quite intrusive for the lock mechanism. If I were to do it again, perhaps filling it with dense foam and then sculpting would be easier. More like that HKS unit. Good find Si :thumbup1:

The booster check is to pump the pedal up to max hardness with the engine off. Then without releasing pressure start the engine. The pedal should sink an inch or so and stabilise. If you're unable to pump it up with the engine off, or it sinks to the floor you have a fluid leak. Some master cylinders can leak internally and not show loss as I understand it.

If the brakes were dragging to the point of boiling fluid I think you'd smell it. And one or more wheels would be red hot if you were to walk round. I think fluid loss or a booster problem is more likely. But we need more info :)

Was the pedal hard or soft. Did they totally not work or just lose power?

Great news mate :thumbup1:

Oh dear, sounds like you've lost another one to the dark side Funky Si :biggrin: It starts with coilovers then leads you onto harder stuff, like flip paint and chrome wheels :lol:

It's still the rage in Conwy :lol: I'm thinking about getting a diffuser haha.

I personally wouldn't worry about year too much, condition is more important. And as much as it is possible to turbo an na, it is a huge amount of work and not really worth it. Whereas a lot of people put manual boxes into automatics and by all accounts isn't that hard. I haven't done it myself, but my car is an auto to manual conversion car. You actually get some arguable benefits with that set up, smaller turbos, different cam profiles.

As Nissan reccomend in my post above, it should only be up to the fill hole. I imagine either it was jacked up and overfilled or not level when you opened it.

Not a bother, post some cars you're looking at and we can give you a crash course in zed shopping :)

No, drain is on the bottom, fill is on the side. There are 2 ports.

As Jeff said, its on the side, and the same as with the drain hole, you use a square socket drive in it.

Hi mate, welcome to the club. In my limited experience, SWB cars spin up a bit easier. But these cars can be modified to be anything you want. Mine had a rust problem. And has had a number of silly electrical niggles and boost/vac leaks, these have made it run a bit roughly, but it has never not worked/run. It isn't that thirsty really. You can use the same fuel and have a far less capable car, e.g. mx5. Any car you find, put it up on here and we can all look over it with you.

I had to have car parts in the living room Gary :)

The house is coming together. The car is there, it's had alook into the mountains, an awesome drive, and is cleaned and ready for work. I also have this in my living room... It's a work in progress I'm gonna swap the psp for a gameboy. It's meant to be cars, guitars and games, top to bottom. A little museum of life trinkets :)

Leafing through this, Ed Sheeran is a total dude! He is a great musician. But Mark Knopfler "What it is" is up there with my favourites.

Happy 2018 the forum :)

Don't most people change gearbox oil in an attempt to save a dying gearbox??? It probably had problems before they changed it. It's just a simple wet sump system as I understand it. It's not like you'd introduce air locks or anything. Auto boxes are different (not an expert). It may be stiff and metalic sounding for 10 gearchanges as it splashes about for the first time. I just checked the nissan manual. To be fair, it only gives an interval for MT oil if you're towing a trailer or driving in desert conditions, for which it reccomends every 24'000 miles. But driving the car at 30 years of age and with more power etc, is also an unusal driving condition. If you double the nissan service interval, it isn't unreasonable to change it at 50'000 and 100'000. It only gives aditional advice if you have a trans oil cooler, which is to avoid air locks in the external pipework. The only thing you would disturb is debris, which you dont want in there anyway. I think it will be a good thing to do. Imo.