tomfromthenorth

I tried to start mine and it was flat again. True or false guys, after you run a battery totally flat like I did with the dome light mistake. They're never quite as good when you get them going again? I may need a new battery :-/

It's a double edged sword isn't it Pete, the massive debate is a result of passionate members with opinions. But no one wants it to get too passionate :) I reckon we're on the edge right now haha. What spark plugs and clutch should I buy ... ... [departs like roadrunner] "meep meep"

I understand Nankangs to be "alright" tyres. Not bad at all, perfectly ok, quite good nothing special. I think that's fair. I'll say what I always say and run away, "I like Vredestiens I think theyre really good!" I also have kuhmos or Hanooks on the back and they are also "alright" nothing special and basically safe tyres. I put stickies on the front and always say this to the dealership for the rears, "What do you get on the back of fast BMWs and Audis and stuff? Heavy powerful normal cars What do you have a good deal on?" The guys have always given me 2 upper middle range safe back tyres and thats what I like.

Hi Brillo. I cant help with all your niggles but hopefully some. This page here https://z32.wikispaces.com/Throttle+Position+Sensor Is a good place to start with kots of tune up jobs on the car. You should also know you can get the factory service manual as a pdf and on the android app store. z32fsm I think. Your high idle could be tps or a iacv, or other things I'm sure but start there. There is a base idle screw on the iacv but I think the general advice is you shouldn't really fiddle with that. (I have and I've set mine up alright) Make a list, start smashing through it. I'm not sure the difference in racks but there are differences in pumps, I dont think a tt one fits on an NA, not something I have personally done. When you get you car sorted a NA SWB manual will be awesome. :)

Well done Nemesis. Happy Zedding :)

Of all the factors conspiring to kill my engine, I reckon it is well below: Knock/Det etc. Dodgy AFRs. Bad oil or infrequent changes. One-off death events, such as Coil packs or spark plugs failing. Reving it's knackers off. Things like bad O2 sensors or TPS/MAF signals, vac/boost leaks causing dodgy fueling will be more common and damaging. In my oppinion. (Not that my engine has those things!)

I have a billet aluminium crank pulley. I considered the issues that may arise from not having the elastomeric rubber bit like the stock one, I reckon it will be fine. It has been so far, if it fails I will report in. However I can tell you it is significantly lighter than the OEM one. As I understand it VG engines are fairly well balanced and as such tolerant to this mod. Other engines potentially less so.

If it is still fairly standard but with those parts going on soon, you could consider lighter pulleys while you're in there. You need a raft of cooling upgrades, radiators and oil coolers for that sort of power, intercoolers and larger pipes make a big differrence. You're going to have it all to bits to do the timing belt, it's as good a time as any to do the pipework. I haven't personally heard of common problems with oil pumps, but it's not something I've looked into. Get an aftermarket Oil Pressure Gauge in there before you start the work, it'll give you an idea of how your's is doing.

I got something that looked very much like that kit from CZP, and did that job last year. My tensioners were all a bit rough and dry when they came off, it didn't sound bad before but it's quieter now. I haven't done an oil pump but it is a more involved job than the timing belt. What are your goals for the car? OEM? Performance? Track?

It needs a HICAS felete just to lose that bloody solenoid :lol: it offends me haha! Why would you do that!

:-# It's a bit dodgy but if you're willing to replace most of the car... It's not the worst zed out there. The rust first, then the dump valves need to come off, the interior into a skip, you'd re-body kit it with the rust repair. Then a manual swap...

That looks awesome Jeff.

Looks good mate, not sure about the white stripe over the top ;-)

Sorry, nothing gives it away, a British one in a year when the car cost £32'775.

Happily/sadly that is totally right Gary :)

Nice spoiler Jeff :thumbup1:

Some of my pictures I have up :) With an emmergency exit card by the back door :lol: Possibly one of only 2 in existence, me and a mate nabbed a pair at the end :) p.s. The wall is a bit greener than that in real life, certainly a bit warmer.

May have had a slight re-shuffle of my hobby priorities, sorry, the car is fine the garage is coming next, but I have done some work to my guitar room and living room :D It took me and Dad a hard 3 days, but my guitar room is now soundproofed by 7mm wallpaper, less Dynamat and more wetsuit! With that wooden wall, that was great fun to do. We built that amp table and painted and assembled furniture everywhere. What a cool place this will be. I'll take a couple more...

I think spoilerless is very 'in' jusdging by instagram. I think it's an American look at the minute. Most of all, do what you think looks good. Secondly I would consider downforce, I think I get some from mine, I know it is a working aerofoil, I don't know if it gives me 5kgs or 105kgs but my car feels reassuring at speed. And a heavy tool bag makes a difference.

Such a shame we need number plates on the front. That will block some air flow in there. I doubt it'll be a problem unless you're on a track though.

It'll be more to do with the surface than the wind. Was your car really clean by any chance?

Looks like I need to pull the pictures out... It can be saved. £300 I expect would get you a steel plate, stick welded on, like a repair made to an oil-rig leg :-#

I'd love to see it side on, the high spoiler and low nose will look ace. I really like the red "NISSAN" on the skirt and nice wheels. I think they are hard style to pull of, but they look mean on your car :thumbup1:

The angel's share??? :) That disappears from the cask :angel:

Thanks guys :)