redwine300

Having had the sub-frame out, along with replacing inner and outer HICAS track rods and ball joints. I thought it best to check the alignment of the rear wheels. So I have bought one of these. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390427020071?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Is there anything I need to know so as to get good results? or do I just drive over the thing and adjust accordingly? Really do not want to set the rear end up wrong so any advise would be very much appreciated.

Hi mate, I don't want to put you off, but I have done virtually all of my corroded areas. See attached link. Should give you a good idea of where to look so as to assess the overall project. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=15465

Can I run Data Scan software from my Zed to my I Pad? If so, How would I go about loading it? and also, what cables would I need? (that's if it possible of cause) The laptop I am currently trying to use is hopeless. Thanks in advance.

Beg, steel or borrow! but keep the car!!!

Ditto.

Many happy returns

Thanks Paul. Cracking one so far.

Feel for you mate, sounds like you are having a low moment. (dam zeds) I would like to think that the folk on here should be able to help solve your issues. Keep the faith mate.

Cheers Groover.

Cheers guys! I don't look it mind. Lol. Or act it sometimes come to think of it! Lol.

Ok right. I had to get mine extremely hot and could only move the thing about a millimetre at a time before getting the thing really hot again. Took ages, combined with a few burns!

Did you use a gear puller combined with heat to push the ball joint out.? I found the heat to be critical to get the thing moving!

Just finished stripping down my spare set of front brake callipers ready to fit new seals etc' Can anyone tell me if the seals for the main pistons can go in either way up or are the supposed to fit a certain way? IE directional relative to pressure side. I assumed on my first refurb that they could go either way up, but I am beginning to doubt myself now.

Hows it going Vodkashots? Hope it coming together for you, updates needed please.

Nice one! you must be chomping at the bit to get back behind the wheel? As you say, bring on the summer! As for Jeff and the team, I also can't speak highly enough of them. Just got back from zed world having just picked up a replacement inner door handle surround. (any excuse to visit zed world) Super service, Generous to a fault!

:thumbup1:Cheers Steams.

Similar problem not so long back. turned out to be a dirty connection. Jeff at z world cleaned and re fitted it and all was good. Also, a little trick I picked up recently with regards to cleaning the hot wire within the MAF, as most will know, at idle and when the engine is turned off, the wire is heated to around a 1000 deg's for a short while so as to burn off any contamination. However, when the engine is up to temp', hold the rev's at 3000rpm and then switch the ignition off, this cleans the wire even better. I did this a little while back and my mpg has improved dramatically. Not to mention my hot starting.

1992 for me, doh!

touché. lmao

Unless I am very much mistaken, I think the only gains may be weight lose and less things to go wrong. If I understand the initial purpose correctly, it introduces re cycled exhaust gasses into the combustion chambers so as to keep the combustion temperatures from escalating excessively during enthusiastic driving. (May also aid emissions) Dam it, to slow again!!

Had my rear sub-frame out a little while back, the dreaded corroded brake lines. By chance I did get a couple of pictures of part of the HICAS pipework if that helps.

Can anyone advise me as to removing the horizontal external window trim that runs from under the wing mirror to the far edge of the drivers side door please? All I have found so far is a small plastic type rivet behind a piece of tape on the inside of the door close to the edge, can not figure out how to release it though.

Would you know of a link to removing the window itself?

Thanks for the link 300 zedx, Really useful. I read it through a few times so as to familiarise myself with the sequence of events and then took the door apart. There I found 3 rollers and their respective rails, to my surprise all 3 were in tack, all I could find was a lot of play between the roller and the rail itself, I can only assume that they are well worn and replacing them with new will do the job. As a temporary measure, I oiled and greased everything possible while I was in there and will be ordering the new rollers soon. Does not look like an easy job though. A couple of things that I did learn were, I was able to adjust the height at which the window stopped by way of lowering a dead stop a tad, (it was catching the top edge slightly making it difficult to shut the door) and secondly, I was able to adjust and increase the sideways contact pressure of the glass to the door rubber. I may not have been able to solve the rattle when the window is down, but it has made a big difference to the ease of closing the door whilst the glass is raised, sounds great. Also I hope it will have solved the slight leak and wind noise, certainly shuts better against the door seal now.

Cheers mate!!