redwine300

Very tempted Jeff, new brake pads would be great, but to guarantee to solve my running issues would be amazing to say the least! Would you PM your price please? I will give it serious consideration.

:thumbup1:Cheers guy's. A lot of very usefull info fo me to be getting on with.:thumbup1:

Bump, anybody?

Can someone advise me as to which brake pads to buy please? I am looking for general road use with the ability to cope with a spirited driving now and then. The ones I have at the moment (unknown brand) only seem to be effective once they reach a certain temperature. Trouble is, I nearly get caught out now and again so could do without the uncertainty. I would like them to be there from the off. Front pads by the way.

Bl**dy Zed's. lol Great that you got it sorted!

If you were to rotate the crank 1 tooth anticlockwise and the right hand cam sprocket 1 tooth anticlockwise, (as you look at it from the front) would that not put everything in the correct place? Except for the back plate marking of course.

Well, after hours of cleaning and scraping as many connectors as possible. I decided to re try Data Scan. Nothing changed really apart from one thing, Both O2 sensors read 32, only slight difference was that when I raised the revs, one stayed at 32 and the other fluctuated between 30 and 32. I would have been happier if both had reacted the same though. As for the dodgy solenoid, I left this off during the scan. So decided to re connect it and go for a short run, not sure if it was my imagination or frustration, but she did feel bl**dy quick, After 15 miles or so I arrived back home, adrenaline levels a tad high, so before I put her in the garage I checked the re connected solenoid. Could not touch it, it was that hot!!!! What could be causing it to get so bl**dy HOT??

If I understand Jeff's how to correctly, It is more important that the belt lines up precisely with the sprockets, and the marks on the backplate can be a little off. They are there more for reference so as to get the initial orientation of the sprockets close ready for fitting the belt. It appears that you may be able to line the belt and sprockets and allow the back plates to be slightly out. Maybe once the tensioner is set, things will be more in sinc.

Spent a couple of hours checking and cleaning connectors throughout so far. A good thing came of this in as much that I found out where the clicking was coming from. It is one of the 2 solenoid valves next to the boost gauge sender unit. (the lower of the two I think, will need to confirm though) One of the 2 solenoid valves got quite warm within a few minutes of running. (the right hand side one of the 2, EGR valve solenoid?) I went round several like for like solenoid valves and they were all cold. Would this sugest a problem with the selenoid or a more sinister fault?

Hi Ceejay, Sounds promising. I am that desperate to get to the bottom of it I will try anything!! I did have a possible intermittent problem with the MAF some time ago! maybe a coincidence, who knows? Got to be worth trying a known good one, if only to eliminate it. thanks mate.

Hi Medallion Man, Checked TPS and the reading came back as 0.46 volts, is this high? The offer of a known good unit to try would be more than welcome, very generous. Very happy to cover any costs and inconvenience, will even throw in beer money mate. The 2 links are great by the way, they have given me a lot to check out. I am going to put some time in today so as to check everything suggested with regards to testing both O2 sensors. (if I can locate the bl**dy connectors that is) I hope that they check out OK! Do not fancy tackling removing them, scary!! Can't thank you enough by the way Medallion Man. I'll be back later with my finding. (fingers crossed.)

Bump!

Cheers Jeff, I never would have figured it like that. I was more along the lines of , heat equals heater matrix and cold equals air conditioning. You live and learn I guess. Thanks mate. By the way Jeff, would take a look at my post, seriously!! Please help. Really baffling me.

Result! Could have been serious as you say.

Pulled the relay and the magnetic clutch no longer engages as expected. tried replacing the relay with a known good one and the problem re appears. At least this eliminated the relay I suppose. I will leave the relay out as you say z32bolt and see what happens, as you say, they may be connected. Thanks for you help.

I don't believe what it happening is correct! No matter what temperature I set the Auto Climate too, even as high as 40 (max). As soon as I hit the auto button the magnetic clutch engages with the air conditioning compressor, even though the heater is blowing hot air into the cabin as it should. This can't be right surely? Any ideas guy's?????

Hi Ianl, Checked air conditions and all is switched off, thanks for the input though. As for the pedal coming into contact with wiring Medallion man, all clear mate. Cheers Boldy, the wires to the temp sensors were a bit iffy, cleaned and re fitted but to no avail I'm afraid. Decided to connect Data Scan and see if I could see anything odd. One thing that was apparent from the off was the TPS read OFF at tick over, but as soon as I touched the throttle pedal in changed to ON. (Clicking in the foot well corresponded with the on/off switching.) Normal??? Secondly, I noticed right hand O2 sensor was fluctuating between 25 and 35 settling around 42 when warm. Left hand sensor just sat at 32 and never moved from cold to hot. seems odd to me. Also, I watched the AAI % drop down to 20% and the tick over settle around 800rpm once warm. As I revved he slightly, the revs dropped and and then recovered, just!! and at the same time the AAI % shot up to 45% Is this normal?? Something definitely note right if you ask me. Desperate to get it sorted.

Very informative! Great read.

Cheers guys for the input thus far. I will check out your suggestions at the week end. I need to solve this before the men in white coats come for me!

Are you getting power to the switch itself?

Footwell clear, I have had my ear down there and it is definitely coming from behind the fuse box cover. Driving me nuts!! - - - Updated - - - Footwell clear, I have had my ear down there and it is definitely coming from behind the fuse box cover. Driving me nuts!!

Sounds like you are experiencing boost leak at high pressure.

Cheers Hellraiser, Will check the tps voltage tomorrow. Did have it set at Zedworld 6 months ago so should be good though. What's causing the clicking in the footwell do you think? Thanks also rebel scum.

UK manual mate, 1992 tt? Revs jump up or down even when in neutral. The slightest touch of the pedal and off the revs go! Something tells me that the position of the throttle communicates with the ecu or some other sensor. One of which is playing up?

Thanks mate, The thing is, if I leave her ticking over from cold, as the engine reaches temperature the RPM drops gradually and settles at 850RPM. This leads me to think that the valve is OK, will clean it as you say though, as a process of elimination.