redwine300

By the way Rob, How is the replacement engine performing? Is everthing back to normal now?

Thanks Daffy. Hi Sambo, Go the whole hog and refurbish them along with a re paint, you will be glad you did when they are done. Chances are they may have 1 or 2 seized pistons anyway, as mine did. Improved the braking no end once re fitted. Oh, meant to say, yes I did use high temperature enamel paint by the way.

:thumbup1: Nice one Tudor.

Any good? http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Mazda_Releasable_Cable_Strap_110mm_Length_p/a14376.htm

Thanks, Yes they do work well with the white. I used a high temperature enamel.

This is what I finaly decided on. Mind you, my car is arctic white so may not be to everyone's taste.

My A/F Base runs at 107, Does this indicate that I might have an issue? or does each engine vary?

Nice bit of info!! Good read.

Nice one Jeff, I will pull the relay tomorrow as you suggest. Can I ask, If there was insufficient pressure in the system, would that mean that the magnetic clutch would not be asked to engage each time I switched it on? My concern is that the clutch is audibly and visually engaging and yet it appears via the inspection glass that there is no refrigerant circulating. No matter what temperature I set it at, it will not produce cold air. Sorry for the questions but I just can not get my head around it. Could I have a short somewhere?

Cheers Steams, Good idea.:thumbup1:

Nice one Garry. :thumbup1:

My air-conditioning system looses it's refrigerant after a few months, so for the past couple of years I have not bothered to get it re charged. As the compressor is running all the time, (except when set to ECO I believe) am I damaging the compressor itself? Is there any way of checking that there is sufficient lubrication left? Or should I just run in ECO mode permanently for the time being?

I have always found this link to be invaluable in similar situations. http://z32.wikispaces.com/Factory+Service+Manual

Hats off to you Mark! Rob must be chuffed to bits with all of your help. True club spirit going on.

Thanks for the update Mark. Hope all goes well with the reinstall.

How are you getting Rob? Whats the latest?

I was glad to be of some help, only wish I could of done more. Good luck with the rest of the rebuild. Please keep the updates coming.

I would check the connection to the MAF unit. You will find it under the nose panel.

My understanding would be that with a smaller than standard crank pulley, and larger than standard water pump pulley would actually result in the pump spinning slower. It is not about specific rpm, it is about circumference. The smaller pulley will deliver a certain length of belt per revolution, therefore, when the belt has to rotate the water pump pulley that is in fact bigger, it takes more length of belt for the pump pulley to complete one revolution. Net result would be that the pump pulley would not have completed a full revolution by the time the crank pulley had. Thus resulting in a slower rpm of the pump.

Very nice. Would love some more details, processes and price etc'

Cheers Phutumsch, As you say, the rear lights are past their best. I have purchased a couple of sets to date in the hope of making up a set of top quality ones. Struggling to get immaculate condition lenses and backs though.

It would be interesting to see who regularly parks there after you start using the private parking. Maybe the likely culprit? Mmmmm see how they like it. On a more serious note though. Hope you get it sorted soon mate, I hate to see mindless vandalism, especially to peoples pride and joy.

Well, at the risk of being boring, I made some good progress today with regards to the second area of tin worm. The easy bit was cutting the stuff out, but fabricating the repair piece was a different matter. Still, got there in the end. And even if I say so myself, turned out pretty good. Almost invisible.

Just a little up date showing the "Before and After" pictures.

Cheers mate!