redwine300

Can anyone point me in the right direction please? I would like to check out the sensor from the connection end, measuring resistance etc' during warm up. can any one tell/show me which connector it is? The sensor I am looking to check is the one next to the EGR valve.

I have in the past been unfortunate enough to fall foul of 1 or 2 less honourable sellers, some may have been for unfortunate but questionable reasons, but others more like down right theft. However, having read in recent posts that I am not alone, and by no means the worst effected, I thought it was a good time to post my more enjoyable transactions. There have been many, but I would like to mention 2 recent ones in particular. Firstly, I have had several items from Baz, and would like to say that his service and communication has been brilliant! the items were as described and priced very reasonably. He has helped restore my faith in human nature. (cheers Baz!!) Secondly. I would like to publicly thank Mikey Bean also, He has shown great trust and integrity with my first purchase. Allowing me to take receipt of my items without payment up front, so as to allow me to return them if I was not totally satisfied. Even offered to not only deliver the parts, but offered to help fit them as well! I can not praise these guy's enough!! I know that 99% of the members here are like wise and felt that is was a good time to pay homage to some of whom I have had the pleasure of doing business with. Thanks again Guy's.

So in short, if they are the none divorced type, they will fit directly to my standard system along with my Mongoose cat back? If that is the case then I will definitely take them. Mikey Bean, If the offer is still open and is as above then please send me your paypal details and I will arrange payment. Cheers Mate.

Cheers Baz, I just need to be sure as I can not afford to get it wrong. Sounds good though!

Thanks for the recommendation, just need to know if they are stainless and have the same internal bore etc' Will deffinately consider them if that is the case.

Sounds interesting, what is the difference between the mongoose and the japspeed ones. Hopefully they bolt up with no problems, same internal bore etc' Are they 304 stainless by the way?

Would like to consider going for the decats, my turbos are standard and have only covered 22,000 miles. So hopefully they will be up for the job. As you say Baz, will do some research.

I too have just upgraded from an old standard system, I must say it has made a big difference also. More responsive throughout.

Cheers Baz, deffinately a big fan now. I guess the next step is to replace the next section now, what ever that is called. Advice please.

Vod mate, I still think you need to rule out the fact that the fan is engaging correctly or not, it may seem to be but could be deceptive. The difference between free wheeling and fully engaged is very noticeable.

Hi Vod's, Did you say you have a viscous coupling fitted? If so, are you sure it is actually engaging? for a while I believed mine was until I checked it by carefully trying to stop it with a heavily gloved hand. Turned out I could stop it quite easily once I had plucked up enough courage to try. Another way to tell if it is, is the very audible roar! I think they are designed to draw something like 2500+ CFM. Very noticeable and extremely effective. Changed mine for a known good one and the difference was incredible. I could easily leave mine ticking over for ages on the drive with the weather really warm and the fan would keep the gauge just below half way. I wish I knew how to post a vid so that I could demonstrate the differance between a fan free wheeling and engaged.

Deffo, after all, if it is working correctly you only ever loose horse power during slow traffic or at standstill Other than then there is no loss of power. Winner winner.

Nice one mate. Still have to beg to differ there with you though. oops. (lol) It is argued that when the coupling is fully engaged it takes that little bit more horse power to drive the fan as opposed to when it is free wheeling. May only be 1 or 2 HP but it was felt that every little counts. Something to do with the higher degree of torque required to draw the massive amount of air. A little bit like when the air conditioning compressor is disconnected for a few seconds during full throttle. Sorry johnp1984, we seem to have drifted away from your original post.

Damn, to slow again.

As you say, the fan is rotating all the time but is ineffective until the temperature requires the fan to be actively driven. It is mealy revolving due to what light residual friction that is present. It is not drawing much air in at all In fact, You can actually stop it with a gloved hand if all is running correctly. But once the coupling kicks in and the fan is viscously engaged it would be next to impossible to stop!!

Not sure about that Steams, lol. With the greatest respect, I have to disagree. (unless there are multiple designs that it) The theory is that the coupling only engages when necessary, thus freeing up Horse Power when disengaged,. (ie when air flow is sufficient enough to out perform the draw of the fan.) I will try and explain my understanding of how this comes about. At low rpm and when the engine is at normal temperature, lets say at standstill. The cooling system temperature warms the spring assembly in the centre of the coupling, this in turn rotates the valve shaft allowing the viscous medium to travel out wards by way of centrifugal force. This is where the clever stuff happens, as the oil passes through a intricate series of meshing channels, viscous friction is created and therefore drives the fan. The design is such that the air flow created is enough to maintain a healthy temperature under most conditions. Once moving (say in excess of 30mph) the air flow becomes more efficient than the fan and cools the central spring, thus rotating the shaft so as to close the internal valve. which in turn via centrifugal force removes the oil from within the channels and disengages the coupling. This is only my understanding based on research and having dismantled one so as to understand the internal workings. The roar that I refered to is definately the viscous fan cutting in when I am at a standstill or moving slowly. I hope I have not caused any offence.

Yes Steams, Upgraded from stock pipes. There were at least 10 years old and I think they had partially collapsed in the back box as well, so happy days. Think I might go for a blast up and down the M69 tomorrow seeing as the weather looks promising.

If I understand it correctly, the viscous fan should only really activate at low speed, or say when stationary at lights for example. Once moving in excess of 30 - 40 mph the air flow developed should then take over and the viscous coupling should disengage, thus allowing the engine to rev more freely. (This will vary slightly depending on the weather I guess) If the fan is on continuously, or not at all then the shaft in the centre may have seized. I am a big fan of the the viscous unit, (no pun intended by the way) Mine cuts in when moving slowly in traffic or stationary for a minute. (really audible roar!!) However, once I get going again she disengages. Brilliant design!

Recently fitted a Mongoose cat back system, Not driven her much since, but the trips I have done have given me the impression that there has been a good performance improvement. Sounds great as well! Or am I just imagining things?

Sounds promising, Would recommend that you track down the source of the water ingress before re fitting. If it is the targa drains then It is a fairly easy to fix albeit very fiddle.

Cheers Steams, Standard gauge under full load goes virtually off the scale! so no safety boost then?

I am looking to determine if my zed is in safety boost, If I disconnect the detonation sensor temporarily,what are the signs of safety boost to look out for? Will it be just a noticeable loss of power or will I be ably to read a drop on the standard boost gauge? Also, would anyone be able to post a picture of the harness connector in question please?

Firstly, I would start with removing the fuse panel and check for a leaking targa pipe. Sounds like you may have had water to the back of the fuse panel causing electrical problems. Check for corroded connections and faulty relays etc.' fiddley job, but a good place to start. May even be worth changing the unit itself if it particularly bad.

If there is a relay involved, I would check there, sounds like it may be breaking down.

I found that the inner ball joints had worn more than the outer, however, once I had replaced the inner there was still play in the outer. If I was you, I would change both and keep the hicas system. Once you have it sorted you will feel a big difference! The back end feels more planted and as you get used to the system kicking in you will enjoy the handling all the more.