redwine300

MMmmm, Good point njmworsley, (lol) Just glad that I could be of help.

There must be a fix for this! I can't imagine Nissan designing something as poor as a noisy door. Looks like I am on a mission now, door card will be off later today for some serious investigation and if I find anything relevant I'll post it.

When I have the windows down and the targas off, When I shut the drivers side door it sounds awful!! a bit like putting the lid on an old style steel dustbin. Embarrassing when people are about, sounds cr*p. Is there a fix? Seems a lot better when the window is fully closed though?

Good point Steams!! I never new that that was a danger, I shall do that myself from now on.

While the pads are out, might be worth checking that the pistons are moving, just see if you can push them back slightly. You may have 1 or 2 sticking.

When you say the tail lights, do you mean side lights or brake lights?

Well, in essence, yes. but I felt it worth reiterating my journey. 18th May 2012, 20:15 Once I had removed the track rod and tied it out of the way, I removed what was left of the rubber boot. After that I used a dremmel to cut off the the tapered part of the ball joint. I then ground back the rest of the ball joint flush with the face of the arm itself. (making sure that all of the shoulder was removed and not digging into the arm itself.) The next stage was a bit more frustrating to say the least. Using a Draper 3 legged gear puller and a combination of sockets, I gradually pressed the little bu**er out. Important! I heated the end of the arm with a blow lamp every turn or so making sure not to over heat the hub itself, If I did not keep the heat in the arm the thing just refused to budge. All in all it took me 3 to 4 hours to get the thing out. So that said, I then prepared the bore, making sure there were no burrs etc' Next I warmed the end of the arm up until I could no longer touch the arm near to the hub. (make sure you move the flame around the bore so as to get an even spread of heat.) It is just a matter of popping the thing in making sure your approach is square on. I have to say, I have just done my rear offside for the second time and it went in a treat!! Happy Days!! good luck with yours z32bolt, if I can help further, just say. ps once you have popped it in, hold it there for few seconds to let the heat balance out and grab the ball joint.

I've lost my temper in there a few times.

Well, removed the right hand side rear outer ball joint tonight, the one I b*lls-ed up previously. :asshole: (and remembered to put the new one in the freezer this time):blush: All I have to do is warm the arm up sufficiently tomorrow night and pop the thing in.:blink: Bl**dy nervous mind, wish me luck.:clover:

As above, Heritage all the way!! £150.00 fully comp' (mind you, I am an old git.)

I think I know what you mean. I will be making a start tonight on my right side outer hicas ball joint after making a bit of a hash of it the first time. Actually looking forward to it in a bizarre sort of way. Strange! Looking forward to hearing how you get on with the hose repair, hope all goes well.

I would put money on the filter being the problem with the gear box, sounds as though it could be heavily contributing to your heating issues also. Top marks for your tenacity by the way, hats off.

I think it is just the connectors that need to be converted at the re charging points, not 100% sure though.

Did you bleed the ABS unit itself? It has 2 bleed nipples, 1 for front and 1 for rear. Has to be done in the correct sequence though. This might help. http://stadzport.com/FSM/BR_Brakes.pdf

Cracking link mate!!

As above, Should be no play. I would start with the inner track rod arms and ball joints first, more likely to be the first thing to go. (easier as well) Failing that I would then change the outer ball joints that are pressed into the hub. Worth doing all at the same time if you ask me. just done mine. massive difference when driving.

Might be worth checking the fuel pump relay, sounds like it sometimes stays in contact and maybe sometimes not at all. Just a thought.

I know what you mean. great fun though!

Are you running the viscous type fan? I have not long put a replacement one on mine, kicks in after about 30 seconds at standstill after a moderate run now. Made a big difference, the roar of air being drawn through the rad is really noticeable, even from inside the car.

Very Nice!! Out of interest, where did you get your drivers seat re trimmed?

As everyone else has said, it would be great to See some pictures, From there we will be able to get a better idea of the problems that are causing your frustration. I am sure then, that the guys here will flood you with constructive Ideas and motivation to finish the project. just keep telling yourself. ONE DAY IT WILL BE FINISHED!

As Richard said, Try Mike at MPJ, He is in the traders section. I got mine from Coz at, http://www.conceptzperformance.com

Cheers Jeff!:thumbup1: Thought that I should share this, so as to be of help to others contemplating doing the same. Firstly, I cleaned up the 2 bores, removing any corrosion and scoring and wiped clean. With the first of the 2 removed from the freezer, I set about heating the bore of the arm. As a gauge, I told myself that once I could no longer touch the arm at the hub end for more than a few seconds, then the bore would be ready. Nothing more to do than to pop the thing in? Disaster struck! I got the thing stuck half way. PANIC set in and so tried to drive the thing home with a socket and hammer. No joy I'm afraid. (only resulted in damage to the flange) Once the red missed had cleared, I tried the same method as I used for removing the old ones. I warmed the arm up again and used my gear puller to press it home. Relief or what? This is where I went wrong, Jeff advised me that the ball joints should be left in the freezer over night, this I forgot to do, so I only had them in for an hour tops! (big mistake, they were nowhere near cold enough) Also, When I warm the second arm up, it will be so hot that it will not be possible to for me to even touch the arm at all. So, with the second ball joint removed from it's cryogenic state and the arm really hot this time I tried again. Popped straight in up to the flange, no messing! I held it for a few seconds for the arm to grip the track rod and all was good. Moral of this story, listen to Jeff and do as I am advised. Thanks again Jeff and the crew. ps I have ordered a new track rod and will change the damaged one as soon as it arrives

Both of them out now, relief or what! When it comes to re fitting the new ones, should I add any grease? or just pop them in dry? (bearing in mind that the arm will be between 100 and 200 degrees probably, and the track rod end about minus 20)

Cheers Jeff.