redwine300

I had numerous electrical problems, especially erratic tick over, I cleaned my harness connections with acetone, (after scraping off the green verdigris) she now runs perfect! Be careful to use sparingly and test on a small area first, as it can attack certain plastics etc'. I used a small artists brush to apply it.

One thing I found very useful was, once I had gently warmed them in the oven at 50 deg'C for 15 Min's, before I prised them apart I ran a 15 thou feeler gauge all the way round as deep as I could get to help separate the lens from the housing. worked a treat. lookout for the locking tabs, they are very delicate. also, there is a small self tapping screw in the back, this needs to be removed first. It may take a couple of attempts, returning back to the oven for a few minutes and working gradually around the whole lens bit by bit.

Ar, the days of the wind up, they used to get me as well. I can not believe it, that must have been more than 30 years ago!

I think it should be tied into the MOT, That way it could be directly linked to your actual mileage. The more miles you do, the more you pay! simples

Took some dash panels off and managed to press the pedal while at the same time feeling for any movement. Yes, there is about a 1/4" of pedal movement due to possible egging as you say Pablito, but the majority of the movement can be felt at the threaded coupling with regards to shaft moving into the rubber gaiter quite a bit before meeting any Resistance. Clutch adjustment needed?

I now know what you meen Steams!! It was bad enough just getting the photo let alone working under there. That said, Am I looking at the pin in question or will it be the pivot point? God knows where that is!

Cheers Guy's, I will have a look later on today, I will take some pictures if I can get a clear shot. Another job to be looked at! oh joy.

Not sure if this is normal, but when I depress the clutch pedal there is about 1" of loose travel before I feel any kind of resistance. I may be imagining this but it seems to feel a tad stronger to depress. Clutch still works though.

Well?

Could it be your waste gates opening prematurely due to lazy spring pressure? May even be that one or both of them are not fully closing.

Maybe you should sit on the bonnet of their car and see how they like it,:lol:

Personally, I would try to keep them as they do offer a degree of protection. I understand what you mean about the noise though. Maybe they could be modified as opposed to removed?

Cheers RichardSmith, I found that I was outbreaking my self last summer, resulting in some hairy moments. Checked the brakes only to fine half of the pistons were seized, managed to free 1 or 2 up and noticed a big difference. I now have a good as new set of callipers and a virtually new set of disc's, which I am planning on skimming before fitting. Can't wait to feel the stopping power! Thanks for the info concerning the ally calliper guy's, I nearly went down that route. Glad I didn't now.

Seal kit arrived, so I thought I would do the final build with a couple of finishing touches. Would anyone be able to tell me what sort of torque settings I should use for the main 8 M10 bolts please.

Lucky girl indeed, Very nice!

Glad to hear that you got there mate, I was really beginning to feel for you. Nice bit of feed back also, It is good to for us to understand the main cause of the problems you experienced. Nice one. ps Looks Great by the way.

Mine ran OK with the the maf unplugged when I took it over to Zedworld, Could not go past 2,500rpm though.

Sounds like a faulty starter motor to me, Maybe that the pinion roller clutch is damaged or the reduction gear assembly is faulty. Can you try a known good starter motor? Also, worth double checking the wiring to the back of the unit.

Just to be clear, is the engine turning over, or just the starter motor spinning up?

I really fancy the Japdspeed complete system, but their website states that these systems will not pass emissions. Is there a way around this? Surely it is going to be below 3.5% Co?

I know it might not be easy, but any chance of some pictures from further away, so as to get an overall view of the diff and surrounding sub frame from varying angles? I am wondering if the powder coating my have distorted the sub frame itself.

I have tackled my drivers side and have plans to take on the passenger side later on in the year, Mine too looks like it is in the early stages z32bolt, but as I have found out from bitter experience, that what you can see from the outside is usually nowhere near as bad as what is lurking beneath. If I was you, I would strip back the carpet after removing the seat and clean off the paint and sound proofing so as to expose the spot welds that retain the re enforced seat mount. I would then drill out the welds and remove the plate, That way you will see the full extent of the corrosion. (don't forget to take measurements of the bolt position and orientation) The next step is to fabricate a plate (leaving access for the seat bolt to pass through) and cut the corresponding aperture from the floor. Once the plate is welded into place, it is then a matter of re attaching the re enforced seat mount by way sturdy spot welds.

These Zed's are like Mistresses, they get under your skin and can sometimes lead you to behave out of character. I have been in a similar situation and turned my frustration to-wards the members of this forum, big mistake! As others have said, There is a wide range of experience and knowledge here, it's just that they may not be on line just as you need them most. Patience my friend, I am sure they will get you sorted on future issues.

Maybe it is the fact that the HICAS is actually kicking in, I believe it becomes active after certain speeds and in my limited experience does feel as though the back end is drifting, but in fact it is enhancing the over steer. Must take some getting used too.

Cheers Ellodave, What sort of lacquer are you using? Sounds a good idea. Think I might adopt it. Little way off yet though, still yet to order my seal kit along with new pins/bolts and possibly shims also. In the mean time, I have pre built my callipers just so as I can see the contrast of my colour scheme, Seems to work OK.