redwine300

Sounds about right, mind you, it does depend the grade of oil you are running.

I think the general conscientious is, if you have the front slightly raised, the air will naturally be driven to the highest point, ideally the radiator filler neck.

What is you ignition timing like? Incorrect settings can lead to excessive heating issues.

Thanks for the re-assurances guy's, I will just have to sit tight i guess.

Difficult to say really, mind you, the oil did look rather off colour when I drained it, a bit blackened to be honest. irrespective of the sender though, it might be prudent to flush the system before fitting a new one.

I may have been lucky with my stock sender, had the same problem initially, so I decided to run some engine flush for a short time, (Wynns engine flush) after a 100 miles or so, drained the oil and changed for new, has been great ever since.

I hope so, just about got a pot to p*ss in as far as the zed goes, so can't aford to loose the money.

Can anyone help me contact Mid-wales-zx please? Made payment weeks ago but as yet nothing has turned up! pm'd him to that effect but no reply. Can anyone help?

I think the oil pressure when fully warmed up should be no less than 11psi at idle and somewhere around 65psi at 3000rpm. Oil pressure at 60-70 would depend upon which gear you are in.

Many happy returns Jeff.:wheelchair:

I think the best thing to do is to grind all of the in perfections out, (especially the miss match at the ajoining faces) so as to make the route from A to B as streamlined and contoured as best as possible. It is more about flow than friction, Also polishing is not a good idea, it propagates wetting of the side walls, IE The fuel is drawn from the air flow and sticks to the inside surfaces of the manifold and leads to lean running. (especially when cold, hence rich mixture at start up) As 300 zedx says, you need a degree of turbulence combined with an aerodynamic flow.

WOW! Hollowpoint, that sounds mean!:w00t: a bit too mean for me though, I need to keep on the right side of the neighbour's, lol :lol: I think I need something in between your video and Vodkashots video. Thanks for the info by the way Vodkashots with regards Kakimoto system, has anyone got a video I could hear? I will probably only ever get one system, so I really need to get it right.

Brilliant stuff in my opinion, not long done both sides on mine and it will probably out last me. Mind you, I am an old git.

http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi This might help mate.

Nice one Vodkashots,:thumbup1: really appreciate you posting the video. I was rather hoping for something a bit louder, a bit more aggressive sounding,:taz: if you know what I mean? What would you suggest?

Thinking of doing the same, I would be interested to know how the performance is affected, also the sound too.

I refer to mine as, "THE NISSAN!" :gunsmilie:

Yes, should be easy enough to get hold of one, try Jeff at Zedworld, he is in the traders section.

Rear of the front wheel arch behind the liner, (Brown in colour) with black shroud if memory serves me right.

I had a not to dissimilar problem, turned out to be the brown relay under the drivers wheel arch that had badly corroded. ended up re working the connector block with all new brass connectors and a new relay.

Yet again! nice write up Jeff, and co'

I would imagine that there is a relay involved somewhere in the circuit, maybe it is sticking? or even the connector to the relay itself has corrosion causing a short.

May be just a poor circulation problem, I have recently ran a couple of bottles of flusher through mine (for approximately 100 miles) and although I did not have a temperature issue, I was still surprised how much sediment came out. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WYNNS-CAR-RADIATOR-FLUSH-325-ML-/290555258112?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43a6716500 It did take several coolant changes mind you to eventually clear the system before putting an antifreeze mix in. Cheep starting point?

^^^ Second that!!

I would have thought it might be possible to put a direct feed from a battery to the switch, not sure of the operating voltage mind and would probably only be advisable for a short period of time, just enough to drop the window. Maybe worth knocking up a flying lead with in-line fuse just in case.