redwine300

It would be interesting to see a meter in series as you activate the switch for the de-mister, just to see if it reacts every time you depress it. Also, Maybe a relay problem, randomly sticking? With the meter showing the problem when the switch is in the off position, try pulling the relevant relay to see if the drain drops.

Maybe worth starting with the base idle, sounds to me that once the warm up cycle has done it's job the base idle coupled with the ecu is not taking over. With the engine warm, disconnect the yellow connector at the air bypass valve and see if the ecu will take over. You may have to adjust the base idle screw first. (anti clockwise I believe to increase the tick over.) Also, I would look at all of the connectors and check for green verdigris, could be something as simple as a bad connector

What colour were the plugs when you removed them? Could be that you might be getting a little over fuelling going on?

Nice one Steams, I bet you can't wait!! Any pictures?

Hi Sussex Stu. I have recently been in contact with these people, http://www.gliptone.com/ They seem to know what they are talking about and assured me that they would have know problem in colour matching etc' Might be worth a look.

Hope you do decide to go for it Hollowpoint. I can not say exactly when I will make a start,(after next summer is the aim) but hopefully I will be able to learn a lot from a more experienced Z owner such as yourself along the way as your rebuild progresses. Thanks Groover, I envy the position you are now in with your Z, I can not imagine the degree of work that must have gone into it. (Guess I will soon find out) To be at a stage where all I have to do is wash and wax her is but a dream at the moment.

I think you are right Groove, In fact I'm sure you are.:cool3: At the moment it is a mixture of excitement and trepidation.:scared: I can only hope that everyone here will not get too pi^^ed off with my barrage of questions. Without the anticipated help and support of this forum, I do not think I would be able to attempt it.

Thanks again for the info Groover, much appreciated.:thumbup1: I am currently contemplating a complete strip down and rebuild (body and engine) so I am looking for as much help and advice as I can get. I think I will savour next summer first though, it will give me a chance to think through everything that will be involved. Hoping to run around 500bhp finances permitting

Cheers Groover.:thumbup1: I feel a lot better about getting one now, knowing someone as yourself have used this type and gives it the thumbs up!:cool3: See what you mean about price, I think I might be tempted to buy new.

Looking at buying an engine stand. Anybody know whether this would fit a 300zx tt engine? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Engine-Stand-/280774536785?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item415f776e51

As Ossian said. I also used a second hand Clarke 135TE. No problems at all.

I would recommend a Clarke 135TE for all of your body work, it has a good low amp setting of 30amp that with a bit of practise will do most of your floor,arches and sills etc' I have cut all of my tin worm out and replaced with new using one. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=15465 For anything thicker than 3mm it would be worth going for the 150TE and will still drop to 30 amps for the thin the stuff. (I wish I had gone for this instead of the 135TE to be honest)

It is possible, just a little more awkward.:turned: One thing I did do though, once I had popped the door car retainers, I laid under the door and with a slight gap, I remove all of the retainers from the card before remove it. It gave me a little more (but very useful) movement, the first time I did it I left them in and ended up poking a hole through my speakers!:oops:

http://www.zmods.org/index.php?page=headlight_rem This may be of help mate.

Count me in too! +one:thumbup1:

Moving or static when reaching 2500rpm? If you were driving her at the time I would suspect the MAF sensor. Might be worth checking the connections.

The story so far.:sweatdrop: Added Wynn's coolant flush and have clocked up a couple of hundred miles, time to drain the system and fill with 50/50 antifreeze I thought. Only problem is, every time I drop the coolant out it still froths up with the remains of flusher in it!! :taz:It must be the fourth time now and still not clear.:confused1: I have looked at draining the block but I can not see that being possible with the engine in. Even tried attaching a low pressure hose to the top engine pipe and left it running for hours and still no joy. It just seems to be only flushing the radiator. Aaaarrgh. I have gone to the trouble of buying top of the range anti freeze but I am a bit reluctant to add it.

Ditto!!

This may be of help The characters on a number plate need to be a standard height and width. Your number plate should show the correct: •character height - 79 millimetres •character width - 50 millimetres (except the figure 1 or letter I) •character stroke - 14 millimetres, (not sure what this means) •space between characters - 11 millimetres •space between groups - 33 millimetres •top, bottom and side margins - minimum 11 millimetres •space between vertical lines - 19 millimetres

Fingers crossed for you,

Cracking read Jeff, It just goes to show you can not assume anything these days. Maybe a poor copy/fake do you think?

I know what you mean Coolg. I got a bit carried away there. As for my car being wack? I suppose it may be a bit tied now. As you say, may be time for a few mods. As for the Golf, I think it may have been a R32 so to have stayed ahead of it would be some testimony to my Zed. Golf R32:- The 3.2-litre V6 engine in the Golf R32 makes it noticeably faster than the GTi. It’ll reach 62mph from rest in 6.5 seconds in manual guise and 6.2 when fitted with VW’s excellent semi-auto DSG gearbox. The speed of both models is limited to 155mph. The big capacity engine has lots of pulling power at low engine speeds, which makes for searing acceleration in all of its six gears. It also makes a nice boomy exhaust note with a racecar-like buzz when the car is pushed, but its all very quiet at a steady motorway pace.

See what you are saying Mantav8, That way I guess you let the engine/gearbox decide the optimum performance in a blink of an eye. Not like my adrenalin fuelled manic over revving.

Thanks Yowser, I will not pretend to say I am clever enough to totally understand, but I think I get some of your general drift.:blushing: It seems to me that I am best placed to try and feel the sense of G force dropping off (as wow300 suggests) rather than send the rev counter round the clock for optimum pace.

Cheers Hollowpoint,:thumbup1: Looking forward to giving that a go. Really like the idea of a gear change indication light, maybe a progressive series of LED's along the leading edge of the binnacle shroud?:yes: Food for thought as to how this might be done?