redwine300

What is the latest ZX-TT? Any joy yet? Interested in what the problem might be. Hope you get it sorted mate.

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Fair comment, Not wishing to labour the fuelling issue, but may be worth whipping the front 2 plugs out and adding a dash of fuel and start her up. I know the difference, if any, will not last long but may help to eliminate it being fuel related.

Strange question I know, but how do you know it is the front 2 not firing? Are you confidant that the timing is good also by the way?

Nice one Tudor,:D:clap: I did not see that one coming, mind you, knowing my mechanical exploits it may be spot on. As for Track days Big_Jim, I am looking at next summer now I'm afraid. I am just getting ready to take her off the road for winter. Sounds great though.:thumbup:

Thanks Jimmer, Is it something I could replace myself? or would it require specialist tools etc'? I am fairly mechanically minded and have a comprehensive but all be it standard set of tools. I guess it may be to heavy and cumbersome to manage on my own anyway

Cheers Guy's. I will do some ringing around, I do fancy pushing my z around Silverstone.

But seriously though?

Wow, some of those photo's bring back memories.:shock:

Glad to hear you haven't given up. :thumbup1: Most of my paintwork came up OK with some elbow grease and I am reading up on re spraying my repares with decent rattle cans.

How do I go about driving my zed around a race track? say Silverstone for instance. I would really like to feel the full potential,:scared: without the worry of the dreaded speed camera.

Is there fuel getting to the front 2 injectors? Also are the plugs known to be good?

In all honesty,:blushing: I have not checked the oil level recently. (errr' well ever actually):sweatdrop: now that the winter is fast approaching I will add it to my to-do list , and as you say, has got to be worth a try as regards an oil change.

The link below might help you with your decision, Mine was very similar. :excl: It was a matter of "do it myself" or give up on ever owning a Z.:no: 4 years later I am back up and running.:w00t: worth the wait.:thumbup1: http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=15465

Sorry Mikey, Should have said, it's a manual I'm afraid. Still worth a shot? Thanks for the reply.

Now that my Zed is finally up and running, I have noticed a reluctance in selecting second gear. (bulks for a second or so with a slight roughness) bit of a nuisance when trying to show off :whistling: It does seem to ease a little once warm though.:confused1: I was thinking of changing the oil in the hope that it may solve the problem, but I am reluctant too if it is not likely make any difference. (money being tight and all that.) Would I need to flush the gearbox before refilling with new oil? It probably has not been changed for the last 6 or 7 years, some of which have been off road.

Did you manage get a replacement bulb OK? If not, I have a couple of spares and could let you have one if you get stuck. Let me know, not a problem to pop one in the post.

I see what you mean, but it was definitely coming from within the sills.:confused1: I could cap it off with my hand. It felt just like a blowing exhaust. Having said that, I was running the heater on full blast set at 40 (fan set on high) so as to get the circulation going through the heater. Coincidence? or could there be a link somewhere?

Finished refilling the cooling system and left her running for a few minutes, Lowered the front end and when I put my hand down to remove the rear wheel chocks I felt a strong air flow from the bottom of the both rear sills,:wacko: (the point where the targa drains protrude) Is this normal?:w00t: if so how come? I can not get my head around it. I just don't see the logic.

Nissan Service? Will be wrong plugs then, well come to think of it, wrong everything!:lol::lol: only joking.

Still think this might be worth a shot. When I split mine it was more about restricting the movement rather than the actual tightness of the bolts. 12" tube and a standard Allen key worked for me.

I'm with Steams, sub frame looks to be on the floor to me.

I have just removed the very same item, only difference was, mine was still in the car but the fix might be the same. I used the handbrake on full to stop the diff turning, letting it off again to spin the remaining bolts into position. If you still have the rear disc's in place you could manually lock the handbrake on using the adjusters. This might be enough to stop the shaft from turning. Might be worth a good soak in WD40 over night first.

Cheers Yowser,:thumbup: Thanks for your help!

Managed to drain the coolant system via the drain cock at the base of the rad, a bit brown and had a bit of sediment in it. Flushed it through with the use of a hose pipe until the water ran clean. Trouble is, I can only see this flushing the rad itself.:confused1: Should I have removed the drains from the each side of the block? I am struggling to convince myself that I have actually flushed the engine at all!! There must be a better way? surely.:helpsmilie: