redwine300

Well, having checked everything with regards to refitting the sub frame and bleeding the brakes etc', I decided to tackle the question of emissions with the garage that failed her. No joy I'm afraid, he said it did not make any difference as to which vehicle he selected. if the car was registered between 1992 and 1994 then it had to have a co reading of 0.2% or below. not really knowing what to do now, I literally do not know where I go from here. What could be the likely cause of my high co levels? All suggestions welcome as I feel I have come to the end of the road.

It's starting to get me down now,:sad::sad::sad: can't see a way of solving the problem.:surrender: Thought I would put a couple of pictures up in the hope that someone will see something obvious.

Oops,:blushing: Thanks guy's,:thumbup1: I'll get my coat.:laugh: Maybe I should think about getting a push bike?:surrender:

Hi Jeff, I can not be 100% certain, but I did try and keep the pipes and connectors such that I did not mix them up, IE the pipe to the left as seen from the inspection hatch had a jubilee type connector, I left the clip on the hose. The next hose to the right, same bore size, had a spring clip on it, I left the clip at the tank connection so as to not get it mixed up. The third pipe was shorter and of a smaller bore and some what shorter, so could only go to the last remaining connection. Would you say that this sounds correct? Also, not sure if this is relevant, but when I released the cap to add more fuel there was a prolonged hiss of pressure release. normal? Thanks,

No turbo timer Jai Kai, all stock. Sounds like it may be normal then, thanks 300zx 666 Does everyone else's do the same?

OK, Putting the finishing touches to my Zed and noticed a light alarm on the dash, Turned out to be a brake light bulb. Now here comes the Silly Question,:whistling: Should the brake lights work even without the key in the ignition?:wacko: Mine do, and that strikes me as a little odd, or is that normal ?.:blushing:

Tried again this morning to start the zed, it took about 30 seconds of continuous cranking before I managed to nurse her into starting, let her run for a minute and then tried again, same thing happened.:confused1: One thing I did notice, when I switched off I definitely got a fuel pump over run sound for about a second, this is what I think is missing at start up. when I switch the ignition on I get more of a clicking than a buzz so I suspect the fuel line is not pressurising enough.:taz: Could someone please throw some more help my way as I am a bit stumped.:bow:

Cheers Vodkashots,:thumbup1: Just checked the fuses, everything is in order, could it be down to an air lock?:blink: or heaven fore-bid, I have damaged the wiring loom whilst pulling the sub frame? Arrrrggghhh:excl::helpsmilie:

After 3 weeks of MOT work,:hammer: I finally got her back on 4 wheels.:clap: Problem now is, when I turn the ignition on, I do not get that familiar pre start fuel pump sound, the one that I believe pre pressurises the fuel line before start up.:taz: I did have the tank out as well as the rear sub frame etc. would this be normal after the fuel line being disconnected or do I have a more serious problem? I hope someone will shed some light soon, I hope to have her re tested next week. Thanks in advance, redwine300

I am looking to put a s/steel system on my UK 92 turbo in the not too distant future, will it cope with emissions at the mot OK? will there be any issues I will need to deal with before the test? I am struggling to get mine through with a standard system at the moment.

Cheers AlanZ.:thumbup1: Thanks for the link. Perfect.

Does anyone know if there is a right-up for bleeding the brakes on a 300zx tt?:helpsmilie: Better still, if not, would anyone be kind enough to post one?:flowers: I have just finished refitting new rear lines throughout and I am now finishing up fitting the fuel tank so will be looking to re mot soon.:biggrin: Thanks in advance.:thumbup1:

May be a bit of a long read,:bored: but I have spent the last 4 years on and off welding my 300zx tt.:taz: somewhere in this thread are some detailed photo's of the area in question. hope it helps.:whistling: http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=15465

4 off new rear hub bushes arrived today,:clap: so I set about removing the 4 knackered ones to be replaced. (2 per top side in each rear hub) Came out OK but did leave some minor pick up in the bore though.:excl: should I try and smooth the bores before refitting the new or just leave as is? Just unwrapped the new bushes and have noticed 1 end is painted blue,:blink: does this signify anything with regards to fitting? also, should I warm the hub prior to pressing home the bushes? worried about getting them out of square. sorry about all the questions, just that I have not done anything like this before.:sweatdrop: Thanks in advance. Redwine300:thumbup:

I had a similar problem, turned out to be the relay behind the drivers side front wheel arch cover, corroded that bad I had to re wire the thing.:taz: worth a check first, as I too took the washer bottle plus motors out, pig of a job.:hammer: Hope this helps mate.

Cheers Jeff tt:thumbup1: So as I understand,:blushing: the one I have knocked off is the temperature sensor? (white ceramic in a black body) if I leave this disconnected what should I do with the harness connector? :confused:also will I get some sort of alarm on the dash?:sweatdrop: Sorry to be a pain, it's just that it's been a long haul to date and I don't think I could cope with any more problems. Thanks again Jeff.

Thanks Yowser, I will give him a bell in the morning.

Can anyone point me in the right direction please?:helpsmilie: Just putting the final bits back after re fitting the rear sub frame :hammer:and I knocked one of the 2 ceramic sensors off the diff.:taz: (the white one) Where would I go for a replacement? Thanks in advance,

Thanks guy's, appreciate your comments.:clap: I will give Mike a ring in the morning Mantav8, hopefully he can get them to me for weekend? On a separate note, managed to tease one of the offending bushes out tonight. Looks fine to me.:confused1: What does everyone else think? Could it have just needed the pinch bolt tightening?:taz:

Nice right up Jeff, That has given me the confidence to remove my rear disc's and have a look. Brilliant!!!!

Thanks Guy's,:thumbup1: Finally finished of the brake pipes, early indications are showing no leaks, so hopefully that is 1 down 2 to go as regards the MOT fails. Next step is to tackle the knackered bushes, This is where I get confused, I have put a tommy bar through the bushes and can not find any real problem with regards to movement. they look fine to me. Could someone tell me the best place to get replacement bushes for the ones circled in the photo please?

Managed to make some headway with the dreaded rotten brake lines over the last few days,:taz: I still have the left hand side pipes to do (2 off) and then I will be in a position to test for leaks.:eek: Not sure how to achieve that mind, being as I have no callipers or axle attached at the moment.:confused1: Thought I might connect the callipers up and somehow wedge something in in place of the disks.:hammer: Any ideas???? Does anyone know if I will have any problems with regards the MOT with reference to me splicing into the existing brake lines?

Cheers for the offer Mantav8,:thumbup1: Very kind indeed. I asked around at work once I new the brake pipe size, (thanks again:bow:) and I have been lent a brand new one. On your advice, I have bought all the bits I think I will need and can't wait to make a start in the morning.:taz: Thanks again mate.

can anyone tell me the correct sizes of brake line I need to order please?:flowers: IE pipe diameter and thread sizes etc' I have tried to measure the outside diameter and it looks around 5mm, would this be right? I need to order a brake flaring kit also and I would hate to order the wrong one.:ohmy: any help would be very much appreciated guy's.:helpsmilie:

Sorry I did not take any earlier photo's,:blushing: I guess I could take some at various stages when it comes to the rebuild showing the various hurdles I came across. In the mean time, here are a few photo's of my initial findings with the frame removed. This picture shows what I believe to be the pipe that burst during the test. I hope these are of some use, if there are any particular areas not covered, let me know.