Handbrake set and adjust tech

[JeffTT]

Handbrake adjustment tech.

 

Had the opportunity to take some pics to explain how to correctly set the handbrake and why it often does not work well even when adjusted ok.

 

Ok so first off the particular zed in the pics was having new discs and pads + painted calipers so but I am in the main dealing with the handbrake.

 

There is “cable” adjustment underneath the handbrake via a 10 mm nut, adjusting this will if any adjustment left only take out cable stretch and can be disappointing that although the lever will be well adjusted the handbrake will still not hold well.

 

The real issue is inside the rear discs where the handbrake shoes reside, accessing these is set out below with pics to support, the caliper does need removing as does the pads but have not covered that as concentrating on the handbrake.

 

Pic 1

 

So here we are the wheel off, pads removed and caliper removed.

 

 

 

 

Pic 2

 

Here the rubber grommet is highlighted, this needs removing to access and back off the adjuster so the disc can be removed.

 

 

 

Pic 3

 

Line up the hole in the disc so you can see the adjuster cog, may need a torch for that, and insert a flat blade screwdriver and locate the cog, ( see inset picture of the adjuster to cog to help know what your doing)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pic 4

To back off the adjuster the cog needs to be turned down as you look at it, this is achieved by levering the screwdriver up and down though the opening as can be seen in the multi shot pictures slowly turning the cog down, until it stops, the disc may still feel solid but do not worry.

 

 

 

Pic 5

Insert a 12 mm headed bolt into the disc inner face thread, this is designed to remove the possible stubborn disc off the hub as when you tighten the bolt is acts through the disc and onto the hub face, a few turns and the disc will loosen and can then be removed.

 

 

 

Pic 6

The inside of the disc can now be seen and now so can part of the problem with poor handbrake performance, the working face is glazed and pitted, not good, this will need cleaning as best as possible to remove all glazing and any high ridges, in this case new discs where been fitted.

 

 

 

 

Pic 7

Easy to see the difference here, really new discs are the way to go at this stage but if the budget will not run to them at this time a good clean up and mentioned before will be required.

 

 

 

Pic 8

So now we can see the real villains of the case, the brake shoes, this a common sight for us when removing discs. The glazing, the colour and condition all reduce handbrake performance and with new shoes costing around £100 from a Nissan dealer its not funny.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pic 9

 

Cleaning with brake cleaner is essential to get all of the dust and rubbish out with out it getting airborne, not good for your chest etc!!, brake cleaner is available in rattle cans for around a fiver..good stuff!

 

 

Pic 10

So here is the simple tool you require, a file, with this you can clean the shoes and revitalise them in to fully working units again, I have shown the difference by cleaning the top half of the shoe.

 

 

 

Continued.....

[JeffTT]

Pic 11

 

Here the shoe has been completely cleaned and swilled down with more brake cleaner.

 

 

Pic 12

 

The other shoe cleaned in the same way and again swilled down with brake cleaner.

 

 

Pic 13

 

So with the shoes all cleaned up and a small amount of spray grease on the adjuster cog and the top lever pivot the disc can be refitted and the adjuster now reverse adjusted until its stops, then back off a few clicks and check the disc is free to turn ( will be slightly hard due to diff drag)

 

 

 

Pic 14

All back in place with new pads and painted calipers, a small file run over the raised Nissan logo make its look nice too.

 

 

Pic 15

Wheels on and looking good and a now fully working handbrake.

 

 

 

 

A couple of notes, the shoes do not have much material on them when brand new so do not be fooled into thinking yours are worn out, unless your a keen drifter the handbrake only gets used when your already stopped!! the dust and shoe material that traps in the disc is like thousands of little marbles between the shoes and the disc and makes a bad job worse, this dust is nit nice don't breath it and don't get it on your drive / cloths it stains like a devil.

 

The handbrake cable adjuster at the front is best left in its mid adjustment, that way you have access to + and - play adjustment to get the handbrake lever to a comfortable click on point.

 

Hope that helps you guys.

 

Jeff TT

Edited May 14, 2011 by JeffTT

[mantav8]

Just done this very job on Boldy's Z.

Nice write up as usual Jeff!:thumbup1:

[Bartflaster]

Ha, seems like a right kerfuffle, did nissan deliberately take the most complicated approach ? :ohmy:

But good job explaining it Jeff, another top tip logged for future reference :thumbup1:

[Car.Mad]

I did this 2 weeks back because mine were seized. But with bigger rears they dont have the hole to allow to back off the pads so i had to force the dam things off :(

[redwine300]

Nice right up Jeff, That has given me the confidence to remove my rear disc's and have a look. Brilliant!!!!

[dannzx]

:thumbup:EXCELLENT! its a job i got to do and that write up helps a lot.:thumbup1:

 

dan.:biggrin:

[Jay]

Jeff, need to adjust mine as it sticks up like a hard-on!! It proper sits at about 90degrees.

 

 

The handbrake cable adjuster at the front is best left in its mid adjustment, that way you have access to + and - play adjustment to get the handbrake lever to a comfortable click on point.

 

Whereabouts exactly is this adjuster mate?

Cheers

[JeffTT]

The handbrake cable adjuster at the front is best left in its mid adjustment, that way you have access to + and - play adjustment to get the handbrake lever to a comfortable click on point.

 

Whereabouts exactly is this adjuster mate?

Cheers

 

Here you go, a little slit in the gaitor reveals it.

 

Jeff TT