redwine300

To set the HICAS into self diagnostic mode I believe you need to do the following, Firstly, all 4 wheels need to be off the ground. Turn the ignition on and immediately start the engine, (in neutral of cause) Turn steering passed 20 deg' in both directions 5 times each way, (min) and at the same time press the foot break 5 times. (you need to achieve this within 10 seconds, so may take severals attempts) You should now be able to see the rear wheels move in conjunction with the front. To bleed the ram, Turn the wheel 180 deg' to the left and loosen the left hand bleed valve until all the air is out, lock the valve off and repeat on the opposite side. (may need to do this several times to get all of the air out) Keep an eye on the fluid level also. Turning everything off should cancel diagnostic mode. (firstly bring steering to 0 degrees)

If I understand this correctly,:whistling: The bigger the pulley on the water pump the slower it will run. My logic being, the fixed rpm is governed by the crank pulley and will deliver a relative length of belt per revolution, so the greater the circumference of the pump pulley the slower it will revolve. Think of it like a 6 speed gear system on a push bike, but in reverse. I think I need a lie down.:closedeyes:

Thanks again everyone, :thumbup: Can't wait to go and have a play, now that I know what I'm doing.:blushing: Weather permitting, I will do some tests at various speeds and try and find out the minimum/maximum operating speeds. Watch this space.

Thanks Guys and girls, So in summary, say I am doing 80 mph and I hit the "Set Coast" then the speed will be controlled at that speed until I hit the brake/clutch pedal. As for the "Resume Accel" button, I use this (press and hold) if I want to add speed but is only active whilst I hold the button depressed? I am not sure mine behaves this way, I will hopefully try again soon. Thanks so far, Redwine300

Cheers Yowser, As mine is a UK Model would there also be a working range? Also, what about the other buttons? I can assume what the cancel one means.:wacko:

Not really used Cruise Control much,:blush: I have tried it once or twice but not sure if it is working correctly.:wacko: Could someone explain the fundamental workings please and how to operate them? I imagined that when travelling at say 80MPH I would press the "Set Coast" button and the cruising speed would then be set? When I try this the speed drops away as soon as I lift my foot. The only way I can seem to set the cruising speed is by repeatedly pressing the same button. As for the other buttons????

Hi Dan, Have you got the exact dimensions and material spec' etc? I might be able to get them made at work for you.:hammer: No promises mind, may take a couple of weeks,:whistling: so if you are not in a hurry it's definitely worth a try, Dave.

Maybe this might help? http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=147818

In case anyone is interested. I came across this whilst browsing for bits and bobs. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/nissan-300zx-twin-turbo-manual-/220869466030?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item336cd897ae

May be worth removing the pads so as to see if it the disk fouling the calliper. If all is clear, as the car has been standing, I would compress all of the pistons slightly with a g cramp or similar, may be seized Make sure you check the reservoir mind, you may push excess fluid over the top. Be careful also not to damage the piston faces when pressing them back. I would also clean all of the contact faces and lightly grease to help them not to stick.

looks too me that one or two of the other joints are suspect,:detective: they appear to have a circular break around the solder. particularly the one 3 above. May be worth just re melting the joint, but be careful not to over heat.

I think these zeds are bi-polar, the highs are fantastic but the lows can be a bit grim. :taz::taz: Give it some thought before you decide to break,:sad: If my experiences are anything to go by, the next time you get her on the road you will be glad you did not break.:)

Cheers guy's,:thumbup1: Looks like my eleven year old daughter may be helping me with the Zed then.:hammer:

I am only a novice mind,:blushing: but I think your timing is a bit too advanced. :ohmy: I would not recommend to many more miles of enthusiastic driving at that setting.

Thanks ck300z, not sure I could cope with bumper off again!!:sweatdrop::smash: I think I might try with it on, even though as you say, easier with it off.:blush: I think I may be regretting that decision already.:wacko: Thanks also groover,:thumbup: nice link! very helpfully. As they say, a picture paints a thousand words.

This may be a simple job but I can not see how to remove the headlight unit. I am having trouble adjusting the low beam spots so would like to remove the whole unit so as to see what the problem might be. Can anyone help explain how this is done please?

Nice write up Jeff.:yes: It only took me 3 years to find my paracitic drain,:blushing: Turned out to be a green connector as the one in your photo. Never did find the cause, but now having read this I will be stripping the fuse box out over the coming winter. Top man.:bow:

I would remove the temperature sensor and check the resistance both at cold and hot using a multi meter whilst the sender is immersed in hot and cold water. 20 deg' c = 2.1 / 2.9 resistance, k ohms 50 deg' c = .68 / 1.0 " 80 deg' c = .30 / .33 " If memory serves me right. At least you can then eliminate the sensor.

Not long ago I replaced both my rear sections, Also from the same chap. Could not fault them at all.

it may be worth putting a couple of the ones you successfully removed back in close to the ones that are tight. Tighten them down so as to take some of the load off, but not so tight as that you get them stuck.:sweatdrop: It is not uncommon for the last ones to be more difficult to remove as all of the tension may have transfered to them once all the others are free, Look to use the bolts that are in the best condition so as to give you the best chance.

Would the belt need to be fitted with a direction of rotation or are they bi directional?

:thumbup1:Nice one Jeff.

Mine does the same. UK model 1992, (manual turbo) Have been told this is normal, can't say I'm convinced mind. Still, as Leo-r32gts said, maybe a safety thing.

Thanks for the Link Slick Pete. (too rich for me I'm afraid):sweatdrop: Baz, Very interested, any chance of a couple of pictures please?:blushing:

After a couple of rad flushes, decided to attempt to flush the engine block via the top hose. Once the hose was off I noticed that the top part of the plastic connection to the radiator had broken off.:ohmy: Is there a quick fix or will I need a new rad?:sweatdrop: