redwine300

Thanks Yowser,:thumbup1: You're a star.:thumbup: After rotating the prop bit by bit and tapping the sides each time as I did, the diff as you said, came away from the prop. Big thanks,:bow: I was beginning to wounder if I would ever get the frame on the deck, but on the deck it is, at last.:dance: Now comes the task of replacing all the rotten brake pipes, I have not figured out what to do yet as I have not tackled brake lines before. As someone said earlier in the thread, perhaps I could splice into the lines individually at a more accessible place? By the way, would you guy's have expected photos as I went? I am happy to from here on in if it would be of interest or help to others. Thanks Again, Dave.

Sorry to be a pain,:blush: But I am really struggling to separate the diff from the prop shaft.:smash: Is it possible to pull the diff from the coupling once the 6 off 8mm hex bolts are removed or am I missing something?:wacko: I am hoping it is just stuck and that a good tug will free it? but so far it will not budge. Hope someone will help soon pleeeeeeease.:bow::bow::bow: Thanks, Dave.

Managed to get the 2 connectors off,:clap: A bit like miniature spark plug connectors.:yes: By the way Yowser, thanks for the tip with the handbrake with regards to the diff bolts, worked a treat.:thumbup: managed to get all 6 out without any problems. I have read several "how to remove the rear sub frame" articles and believe me, there is a lot missing,:pinch: talk about a pain in the a**e!. I think I have just 2 nuts remaining and she should be on the floor.:taz: Still hoping for some advice with regards to the diff separating from the prop as she is lowered, any takers please?:innocent:

Yowser, Can't thank you enough for taking the time to help. For the connections on the diff, 1 is red and the other is black. Looks like I will have to strip back some of the original shielding to see how it connects, spade connectors? As for the diff, I have disconnected the brake cylinders but not the hand brake cable but I am unsure as to how the handbrake will still work? I have to say, I am a little frightened about rounding the socket heads, should I expect them to be really tight? So close yet so far!!! CarMad, Hopefully you are OK? Thanks for your help so far. I shall pull the back section of the exhaust first thing and look at trying to separate the diff from the prop, Will the prop push back enough to clear the recess in the diff? or will I have to separate the prop at the centre bearing? More Helllllpppppp Please. Thanks again, Dave.

With your experience in mind Car Mad, I attacked the last retaining bolt with a dremmel, Managed to get the nut off without to much damage to the stud, so it remained suspended while I got out from under. Also managed to get the dreaded HICAS ball joints off the tapers, so I feel I have made some headway to-wards dropping the frame. 2 problems still exist though and I could really do with some help, pleeeeease. 1, How do I disconnect the 2 connectors at the back of the diff? 2, How do I keep the diff locked whilst I undo the 8mm socket head screws? Sorry to beg. but could someone help please? Thanks so far guy's. Redwine300

I've just repaired the exact same piece, Got mine from here, http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php I think it's 4mm if memory serves me right.

I think this might be the post zhoodyx, (Kerb damaged wheel fix.) http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=149133

Ouch!!:crying: Car Mad, (not to bad I hope?) With that fear in mind, I have been back to the exhaust for another go! Could only manage 3 out of the 4 mind. Looks like the hack saw for me too! On a separate note, can anyone help me with the 2 connectors on the back of the diff? do they just pull off? or do I need some sort of special tool to disconnect before I drop the sub frame? Still do not know how best to tackle the prop shaft mind.:helpsmilie:

I do hope not Baz, although it does feel that way at the moment.:cursing: Thanks again Jeff, But looking at some of the bushes on the sub frame etc' I have decided to drop the frame as well,:scared: curious to see what the car is like up there. Having made a start, everything seemed to go OK, managed to free off most of the nuts and bolts etc'. however, the 2 things I would like ask for help with are, (1) How do I get the exhaust bolts free? I am worried that if I apply to much force and they don't give I am going to round the bolts. (2) Same with the diff, I have a good 8mm key, plus bar, but the damn things won't budge. Also, how can I keep the prop solid? Any help very much appreciated. Thanks, Dave.

Cheers Baz, just what the doctor ordered. I guess when I am over the disappointment I will see the light at the end of the tunnel.

Thanks Jeff TT, I have just finished lowering her on to rear axle stands, I will have to get the manual out to research removal of the diff. It is a little way off yet, but when it comes to parts, will you be able to help? I imagine, brake pipe, nuts and clips etc'? oh, and also bushes etc' Once I have figured out how to remove them in situ. Thanks for the advice by the way.

Well after a long deliberation, I have decided to tackle the removal of the sub frame myself.:censored: At the moment, I am in the process of putting the front wheels on ramps and jacking the rear up and placing axle stands either side.(in the garage!) If there are any pointers from people who have experience or ideas, please throw them in. I need all the help I can get. Just for starters,does anyone know if I will have to remove the fuel tank for example? All help wecome.

I have not long re-fitted my tank, If the thing isn't blind on then the filler neck will not line up. I left my tank slightly loose so when I had fitted all the screws I could then wriggle everything into the right position. Hope this helps.

Both sides I'm afraid.

Hi Groover, I think you are right, When I get her ready for a retest, (if ever) I will go back to the same place, With the help from you guy's, I will be able to be better informed next time. Managed to have a poke around and take some photo's, one of which shows the bushing that failed. I must admit, it does rock a bit. Marked in yellow chalk.

Hi Yowser, I agree. I think I will have to look for a more experienced test station. Below are the results of the standard idle test, CO, (% vol') Target 0.500 Max, Reading, 2.643. As for the leak, all I could see myself was that it was high up near the floor. I asked him where he thought it was coming from but all he could say was that he is only bound to notify me of the leak itself, not the source. I like the sound of buying a pair of second hand arms, I will post in the items wanted and see what happens. Thanks Again.

Hi Vokashots, That,s very kind of you, I would be very grateful if you could stop by,:thumbup1: you would be more than welcome. On the face of it I am going to need all the help I can get. How should I have the car? I'm guessing up on stands, wheels off etc'. I will do what ever I can to help. Shall I pm you my address/phone no' etc'?

Firstly, Thanks for the responses so far guy's:thumbup1: Hi Medalion Man, My 300zx is a UK model, Date of registration was 18th of September 1992. Vodkashots, Hi also, Thanks for the info regarding the test spec' I will bear this in mind when (if?) I next get her tested. I will have to do a bit of research and see if I have the b**ls to tackle the work myself.:censored: Hi Quavey, Thanks for the input, As for the bushes I'm not sure myself, He said he has marked the offending items with chalk, so when I am over the disappointment, I will get in there and have a look. As for the emissions, to the best of my knowledge there are no leaks, ironically she runs very smoothly, could it be down to burning oil? she has been standing for some time.:scared: As for the pipes, they are fairly old and are an original cat type exhaust. Would this explain the bad emissions?? Cheers for the info also Car Mad, As to dropping the sub frame, I think that is a bit beyond my ability I'm afraid.:scared: By the way Quavey, I might have some rusty break pipe available by the sound of things, interested?:wink::tt2: Vokashots, With that said about the emissions, what would be your best guess as to the main cause?

Just got back from the MOT test of my 300zx tt. FAILED!!!! Devastated to say the least,:crying: After 4 years of work with regards to new sills/floor etc' etc' I now find myself with problems that I am unsure of how to fix. I really would appreciate some help and advice please. (1) During break testing, the tester said he thought he had just blown a line at the rear, sure enough, after looking underneath there was fluid pi**ing down onto the right hand side exhaust system, heartbreaking or what. (2) Both rear top tie-bar bushes were shot, causing excessive movement from left to right. When I asked him if this was a big job he would not commit himself. (What do you guy's think? Could I do it myself?) (3) Next came the Emissions, Failed on all 3 idle tests!! I have include the results for the first fast idle, could someone suggest the possible remedy please? CO, Target 0.300 Max. Actual reading, 4.251 HC, Target 200 Max. Actual reading, 265. Lambda, Target 0.970 to 1.030. Actual 0.888. One thing I did notice, On the emissions printout, it listed the vehicle as, Nissan 350Z, Does this mean the test could be to stringent for the 300zx? These figures do not mean a lot to me so would someone be kind enough to suggest the probable cause please? At the moment I feel as though it is the end of the world, hopefully it's not. Thanks in advance, Dave.

Cheers Car.Mad, :thumbup1: This MOT lark is worse than when my wife had our daughter!:censored::wacko:

Thanks Yowser,:thumbup: While I was under there I noticed that the rubber gaiters over the suspension shocks have fallen to bits,:cursing: will this be a fail? Also, should I remove all evidence Of gaiter so as not to draw his attention to them? As I was giving her a bit of a clean, I noticed that there was a small stone chip in the wind screen straight ahead of the driver about 10mm in diameter,:scared: will this be trouble also?

Thanks everyone, I have spent all day going through all your valid points and on the face of it, everything seems OK.The one thing I did notice however is that the outer skin of both back boxes have rusted through, should I cut away the flaky bits or just leave as is so as to be up front?

Cheers, zhoodyx, Managed to get front and rear washer nozzles working, Headlights seem fairly straight looking at garage door. I think I will fit new wiper blades just to be on the safe side. Thanks also CrashCourse, Corrosion sorted, (hopefully) and have just tried breaking up and down the street and all seems good and straight. Hopefully emissions will be OK, I have a Gunson tester, may give it a go tomorrow. (GOOD LUCK FOR NEXT WEEK)

Can anyone advise please?:helpsmilie: After a little over 4 years of restoration,:hammer: my 300zx tt is in a position to go for an MOT test.:taz: I have bit the bullet and booked her in for this coming Tuesday. Can anyone point me in the right direction please as to what to look for myself? so as she does not fail on something silly that I could of put right before the test. I am desperate for her to pass, so any help will be very much appreciated. Big thanks, Redwine300

Maybe worth cleaning the water temperature connector also, possibly even cleaning the probe itself. It is worth eliminating the easy things first before tackling anything major. By the way, Welcome to the forum. Keep us posted.