redwine300

Thanks Guy's,:thumbup: Steams, that link looks spot on.:clap: The picture shows some sort of receiver that I presume I would carry with me, the only thing is it is missing, Does this mean I could source a replacement or could/should I safely remove it without impairing the alarm?:hammer:

Hi Guy's, Hope someone can help.:helpsmilie: Does anyone know what this strange looking unit is and what it's function might be.:confused1: I thought of pulling it out but not knowing what it does i have left it. It seems to be patched into the radio:hammer:

Anybody got the steel housing that the bulb assemblies fit into? Mine has rotted through.:thumbdown: Happy to pay.:thumbup:

Many Thanks Stu:thumbup::clap: I like the idea of a chart cross referencing nissan parts:thumbup::biggrin:

I stand corrected there Andy93z,:innocent: Must have been a different grease that gave me my problems.:oops: I threw it out so i can not say what it was. apologies!! :sad: I have fitted my connectors dry through fear of the same problem, but having your information about the dielectric grease i will re-consider. can i get hold of it easy enough?

Might be worth treading carefully with the dielectric grease, Some brands are super conductive, if spread too liberally it could cause voltage to track across the terminals giving all sorts of problems.:eek: Something I have had happen to me and just thought it would be good to pass on.:flowers:

Hi Slug, I have managed to get the majority of missing clips etc' from a combination of the links below, Maybe of help to you. http://northlandfasteners.biz/Store/index.php http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/?Click=2 http://www.conceptzperformance.com/ http://www.thecliplink.com/index.php

Well guy's, having tried all the suggestions, eureka!:clap: I finally got the key to turn. It ended up being corrosion on the inner bore that fouled the tiny dogs of the locking mechanism. With plenty of WD40 and some persistent working left to right the pesky corrosion worked free.:taz: As Phutumsch said, I had to remove the lock so as to scrape away what corrosion I could first. The lock is now packed with a light grease and works great. I hope this will be of help to others.

Not wishing to high jack your thread Sussex Stu, but a couple of years ago I discovered the same problem on my UK tt. Having the same dilemma as you, I decided to do it myself and have posted my exploits on a DIY Welding site, where the help and advice was invaluable. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=15465 This thread shows the extent of the corrosion and a step by step approach of how I went about it. I hope it goes someway to help you with your decision. Again, apologies for the invasion.

I had the same problem some time ago, drove me mad,:taz: but I eventually solved it. The problem with mine was the 2 units responsible for high idle during warm up and the other is to raise the rpm when added load is registered, such as air conditioning etc' I can not recall their correct names,:whistling: but they are located at the right hand side of the engine, (as viewed from the front) right at the back. One connector is yellow and the other is grey if memory serves my right. My remedy was to clean both harness side and connector side of the connectors with pure acetone (clear nail polish remover) and she has idled perfect ever since. Might be worth setting the base idle while the connectors are off also. Hope this helps.

Thanks for all the replies guy's, My initial thoughts are that the lock it's self is playing up.:helpsmilie: The linkage from the barrel to the release seems free and does not offer any resistance to the key being turned, or should I say attempted to be turned' I have sprayed quite a lot of wd40 into the lock but the key just about moves.:cursing: I guess I should leave it over night to soak and try again tomorrow?.

I know it is not a major issue, but does the ignition key double as the rear hatch lock/unlock key or am I missing a key? If I am missing a key, is it easy enough to get a re-cut or will I have to change the lock it's self? Hope someone will shed some light. Thanks, Redwine300

I know how you feel,:surrender: Nearly finished mine,(it's only been 4 years) I had to replace virtually everything from the rear arches, sills, front to back. Worth it though. This is how i tackled it. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=15465

Thanks Steams,:bow: Having read your post it does not appear to be to big a job at all. A bit of a relief to be honest. I will make a start soon.

Nearing the end of my rust replacement with new steel,:laugh: The only major area left is the rear arch around the filler neck.:wacko: As I will have to do a lot of welding in this area I will need to take the tank out.:excl: Is it much of a job? Could someone give me a rough break down of the best way to go about it please?:thumbup1: Thanks in advance everyone.

I never thought I would say this,:ohmy: but I am finally getting close to driving my 300zx tt again.:w00t: (It's only been 4 years!!:wacko:) As I only intend to drive her in the summer months, can anyone recommend a good insurance?:thumbup1:

Thanks AlanZ and Tudor... I will take up your suggestions this weekend and let you know how it goes.:bow:

I have been working on the bodywork of my 300tt for some time now,:yawn: and each week I run the engine up until warm. I have sorted the tick over problems and set the timing etc' but I am experiencing a regular tapping noise.:hammer: It does not seem tinny enough to be a tappet (not that I would know anyway:sad:)and not clunky enough to be top or bottom ends. My question is, should I consider using an engine flush, and if so, what would you recommend? also, how do I use it to get the best results? Thanks in advance.

JeffTT, Many Thanks for going to the trouble to post pictures, Worked a treat. I owe you a pint or 3. :flowers: Is it mandatory to attend the bash in a Z? The reason I ask is I am still welding up my arches, floor and sills etc' Hopefully to have her ready for a full respray in the Summer. Again, Thanks.:thumbup1: http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=15465

Many thanks JeffTT,:thumbup::thumbup: You are right, the head of the clamp is quite large, so I will have dismantle it and try it out tomorrow. and yes, it would be of help if you were able to post photo's. Thanks again for the advise, I really appreciate it. By the way, What is the Zedworld Bash? and were is it?

I thought I would try something while I wait to pick up my new strobe. Warmed the 300 up to normal and double checked the timing as before.(induction pick up on the power transistor unit loop) as before I left the clamp closed. Same reading 15 deg' BTC. Switched her off and re connected the same strobe again in the same way but this time I left the induction clamp open. reading 3 deg' BTC.:ohmy: Tried this several times and the figures repeated each time.:confused1: I decided to go with the settings found with the clamp left open and will double check once I have a different strobe gun. Just out of interest, after setting the timing with the clamp open, I tried the set up with the clamp closed. reading 27 deg' BTC. hmmmmm

Cheers Mantav8,:thumbup1: I will try and pick one up this week end and re check. I will let you know what the difference is between the two as soon as I know.

No, It is as standard. It has had a new complete bottom end including turbos though. Still as standard mind. Could that make a difference?

OK, So in summery. Am I getting a misleading setting from the method I have tried? I am worried about leaving it as is as it could be set as low as 4 to 5 deg' BTC. Maybe I will get an extension made up so as to let me pick up from above the plug and below the coil pack? Would someone clarify please?

I decided to check my ignition timing today and found it to be about 27 degrees before top dead centre.:sweatdrop: Slackened off the 3 bolts securing the crank angle sensor and rotated it clockwise until I achieved 15 btc. My only worry is that I had to use all of the adjustment to get it. The strobe I am using is a pickup type that I connect top the + and - respectively and the pickup to the looped wire at the power transistor unit. I seem to remember reading that this method may give a false reading of up to 10 degrees error.:ohmy: Could anyone advise please?