redwine300

Well, I have my Titan 5w-40 ester synthetic oil ready to go, in along with a K & N high flow filter. My question is, can i put a cheaper oil in first so as to flush out the old oil without contaminating the new oil?

Nice one Jeff tt, :thumbup1: When I get back from silverstone this week end I will be in touch to arrange an appointment, weather permitting. She is still in primer in some areas so I am trying to avoid getting her wet.:blushing:

Cheers Mate, will do.:thumbup1:

TPS connector and wiring looks a bit dodgy.

I take it there is a radiator up front somewhere?

Having replaced my inner rear hicas ball joints I have noticed that my steering wheel is now slightly off when driving straight.:confused1: I don't know if it is my imagination, but I also feel as though she is crabbing to the left.:scared: Can anyone recommend a good wheel alignment centre near Coventry please. Thanks in advance, Redwine300

Might be worth putting a multi meter in series to check for a parasitic drain, I think the natural draw from the clock and central locking etc' should be no more than 80 Milli amps. A little while back I had a parasitic drain of 3/4 of an amp,:sweatdrop: killed the battery in a matter of days.:excl: Eventually tracked it down to a corroded multi plug connector down by the fuse box in the drivers side foot well.

Just recently replaced mine, 300zx tt UK (1992) There are 2 cross head screws holding each of the lens covers on, once that is removed, (maybe stuck to the rubber seal so go easy) the bulbs are of a push in type, 12v x 5w if memory serves me right. Hope this helps. Redwine300

I don't believe in coincidence most of the time. I usually look at what happened just before the problem arose, IE you tested the brakes and the problem with the steering developed, maybe you have jammed a brake pad/pads on one side and it is pulling against the power steering? This may also explain why it feels rough at stand still as there is probably some wheel rotation during lock to lock, (all be it small) and you are feeling it through the steering also.

Would you get low boost if the waste gate valves were sticking open?:blink:

While you are in the wheel arch, might be worth removing the rear part of the inner liners, you will find a brown relay in a plastic sheath. This was the problem with mine, it had corroded and had to be re wired.:hammer: Wish I had found it before I stripped the front end only to find the pumps etc' were OK!:taz:

Having finally got her through the MOT after 4 and a half years of welding etc' etc' I have been giving her a bit of a spin.:dance: My question is, what is the maximum boost reading I should expect?:confused1: On full throttle she is virtually going off the gauge, close to 14 psi. Is this to high for a stock UK? or is this normal?:sweatdrop: Cheers in advance. Redwine300.

Might be worth by-passing the switch before shelling out, maybe a relay that could be playing up? I had a similar problem with the switch on the other side, turned out to be the connectors to the relay had corroded. just a thought.

Well, I never thought this day would ever come but, she's only gone and passed the MOT! :taz::taz::taz::taz::dance::dance::dance: Thanks again everyone. :bow::bow::thumbup:

Thanks dragonback,:thumbup1: will do.

Cheers Jeff tt,:thumbup: Come to think of it, I did put the brakes back together in a bit of a hurry and they were a bit gummed up now you mention it.:blushing: I will do as you say and give them a good clean and re grease. Thanks,

Hi and thanks dragonback,:thumbup1: I will check the handbrake as you say, as it happens I did adjust it when I was re fitting the back end. If the pistons are sticking, what is the best way to free them off without doing any damage? Also, could it not be the rolling road just registering the drag of the diff and back axle?:turned: or am I clutching at straws? As for the work, i hope to get the parts for before the weekend and crack on. Thanks guy's Redwine300

See what you mean Tudor, pricey or what,:ohmy: by the way, thanks for the links, I have just finished removing both inner ball joints,:hammer: well knackered, (thanks for the write up Jeff tt) I am thinking, may be able to get away with only changing the inners?:whistling: I am nervous about grinding off the outers and then being up the creek without a paddle if I can not get them out.:taz: Thanks for everything so far guy's, could not have got this far without everyones help.

Hi Andy, Sorry to appear daft,:blushing: but what is the pinman? I have been at my first of 2 rear outer ball joints for hours and still no joy!!

Afraid so Mantav8,:crying: looks like I have had to change the bushes for nothing!:rant: track rod ends did not get a mention:surrender: So depressed or what!!!:censored: By the way Tudor, Thanks for the links,:thumbup1: very helpful. all I need now is a shed load of motivation to get back in there.

Does anyone know if there is a write up on replacing the rear hicas ball joints,:ohmy: looks like mine are shot.:taz: Cheers.

Good news and bad news!! :taz: Run the Nissan through BET and then on to the none cat test today, passed with flying colours!:) As a gesture of good will, he said, while you are here, I will re test against the previously failed faults.:sweatdrop: He is now saying the rear hicas ball joints are shot!!! :mad2: Does this sound correct? I would hate to do them and then be told it is something else.:ohmy: Another fault was brakes dragging at the rear just after break test, sticking callipers? By the time I get her through I will have run out of insurance at this rate. Not to mention patience. Any thoughts, pleeeeeeeease.:flowers: (it is my birthday:lol:)

Thanks again Mantav8, and thanks also Tudor. (and everyone else by the way):rockon: Made some real headway today, thanks to the input from you guy's.:thumbup: Once I had read through everyones help and advice several times, I felt ready to put your comments to the boss at the test centre. I have to say, he was a real gent about it and agreed in principle, subject to a pre test hook up, to re test as a B.E.T. Good news or what?:drool: The hook up is Friday afternoon, Hopefully he might fit me in for the full test Saturday.:dance: I do not want to get carried away but if she passes, somehow I will buy you all a pint, or three.:bow::bow::bow:

Hi Mantav8, As you say, I have been slowly getting her ready over the last 4 years.:hammer::hammer: As for a service,:blushing: to my shame I have not got round to it yet. I was planning a thorough service after the MOT had gone through. As for fuel, nice and fresh I am happy to say. So as for a service, what sort of items should I look at first with regards to affecting the emissions?

Guy's, I can not thank you enough!:bow::bow::bow::bow: the information you have all put forward fills me with hope. I shall follow up all info and talk to the tester in the next day or so. I just need to have all the answers ready before I take him on.:hammer: I will let you know how I get on. Good point Jimmer, they are flared joints, had me worried for minute there.:sweatdrop: