redwine300

Thanks for that Jeff, sorry to have doubted your knowledge and experience, the same goes for you Mantav8. You are right with regards to me being confused. I am suffering the red mist with regards to my zed at the moment. I guess I just want to get her sorted as I do not believe I have ever realised the full potential of a properly running "Z" As for letting you sort her? good idea! I will call you soon! may have to be after my hol's though. Just a re cap of my major problems to date. 1) intermittent code 34 2) Major stumble, (flat spot when cold) Data Scan shows massive drop in timing from 35 btdc to 15 btdc as soon as tps comes off closed throttle position. (revs drop dramatically also, nearly stalls!) (can deffinately hear a solenoid firing at the same time?) This virtually disappears when warm, In fact goes slightly the other way. 3) General feeling of lack of power! 4)Pi**ed off) lol That said Jeff, do you feel confidant that these issues are easily sorted via a comprehensive conzult. or will it be a matter of trial and error?

http://z32.wikispaces.com/Vacuum+Diagrams May be of help mate! Stick with it.

Sorry guys, but I can't settle with this. The more I read the more I have to disagree. The link I have posted clearly states that the waste gate controls the maximum psi condition by remaining closed until maximum boost is achieved. The is pre set at 9.5psi and is only effected by the ecu activating safety boost so as to lower the maximum boost to 7psi. It achieves this by switching ON the waste gate solenoid which under normal running conditions is OFF. When switched ON vacuum is applied to help lower the boost to 7psi. For some reason mine switches ON for no apparent reason at around 2250rpm. I still can not see this as correct! Sorry guys but I just need to understand what's going on. No offence.

http://z32.wikispaces.com/Consult+Quick+Reference. There is a paragraph within this link referring to wast gates, is it correct?...

Not sure Steams, I just don't understand why it is electrically working the wrong way round? If you know I mean? I think I will have to check it again tomorrow. Think I am loosing it to be honest. Thanks for the help so far guys.

Cheers Jeff TT, Looks like I must have a strange electrical problem somewhere then. It gets worse!

Thanks for the valued input there Mantav8. I too do not really understand, so I thought I would fire her up and just double check. With engine fully warmed up and ticking over, the solenoid is showing "OFF" if I gradually raise the revs, as soon as she hits 2250rpm the solenoid changes to "ON" As I understand it, the "ON" signal allow vacuum to go to the waste gates thus reducing boost pressure by lowering the resistance to pressure at the gate. For some reason, the ECU is going into one of its many safety modes!! Only problem is, WHY?? God this is p*ss*ng me off.

Can anyone tell me if this is correct please? After warming my zed up in neutral in the garage, so as to do some Data Scan checks, I could not help but notice my waste gate solenoids were switching ON at around 2250rpm under no load!! Is this normal? Does not sound correct to me, my limited understanding is that they should operate when under boost so as to help limit the boost pressure! Could be wrong though?

Ok, next it may be worth checking that when you rotate the Cas, once removed from the engine, that your injectors are actually firing. You will need the Cas connected and the ignition on. Do not try to run the engine. As you then rotate the shaft of the Cas, you should hear the injectors clicking.

May be worth checking that the main connection to the ECU is in correctly, sometimes they can be mis aligned, failing to make contact on all pins.

This may be of help mate, http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/197828.html?*session*id*key*=*session*id*val*

They are permanently glued in! I tried and ended up destroying the rear lens.

Beautiful! If it runs as well as it looks then you a great motor. Nice one jimmer.

Thanks Ossian, Same link as I refereed to earlier, still convinced he has marked up the connectors wrong Mind you, I am so miffed with this I probably can't see things right. Looks like I am going to have to remove the plenum etc' and replace the sensor!! Looks like a nightmare to me.

Anybody? please!

Also, Should I get 1 meg ohm across the 2 pins on the det sensor? I can get 500 k ohms from 1 pin to earth, but nothing across the pins!!!

Would someone kindly take a look at this photo please? I would like to be certain that the cable going down to the depths of the back of the engine is going to the det sensor, and the short one going into the harness is going to the ECU. It's just that I have been following this link so as to test for the correct the resistance! and unless I am going mad, (which is not surprising) the connectors appear to be the wrong way round? http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonationSensor/detonationSensor.html Assuming that they are, I am measuring 500 k Ohm resistance to the ECU and also getting 500 k Ohm to the det sensor! My understanding is that the det sensor should be reading 1 meg Ohm resistance or close to. I have run data scan again only to discover that the car has started with code 34 the last 24 times. AArrrgghhh As I am only getting half of the stated resistance, could this be the connector or is it definitely the det sensor?

Have you checked all of the fuses? I would start with the ones on the passenger side in the engine bay.

Cheers Steams, Well managed to find a connector with 2 wires, 1 black and 1 white in the middle heading downwards, disconnected it and ran data scan. No code 34! I guess it's not that one then. Puzzled to say the least.

Bump! Can anyone point me in the right direction as to which connector is for the det sensor please? I seem to be only getting code 34 when cold but not when warm? This may explain why she stumbles when cold as I think the ECU is backing the timing off back to 15 as opposed to gradually bringing it down from 30 during warm up! Very visible on data scan, sits at 30 degrees at tick over, (1300rpm when cold) and as soon as touch the accelerator. wham! straight down to 15 and stumbles whilst at the same time knocking 500rpm ish off the tick over. This can't be normal, surely??

Try this link mate. http://z32.wikispaces.com/Throttle+Position+Sensor

Mmmmm, Mine has been showing similar symptoms. Looks like I will be checking my steering rack bushes at the weekend. What should I be looking for? Cracking? Bulging etc'? will there be obvious signs of movement, like polishing effect close to the bushes?

Sounds like a real bargain. Either that or the seller knows something you don't, hopefully it has not got the dreaded tin worm to badly. On the face of it though, looks great. Tell us more. Welcome to the club by the way.

^^^^think you could be right there mate. I think only the Canadian model had the exhaust gas sensor come to think of it.

http://www.ttzd.com/tech/engine/egr.html This may be helpful.