fraser_gtti

well its maybe the tappets then, hard to tell without hearing it.

injectors ticking is normal, and noise from the hydraulic tappets on high milage engines is also common, but not in need of immediate attention. you pretty much shouldnt hear much outside of the car with the bonnet down tho. thats about the level mine run at, if it gives u an idea?

an engine thats healthy and has no problems shouldnt smell of unburnt fuel, again, i think fuel is being used to cure another 'sick' car

i agree, the suggestion of knocking occuring sitting in traffic is rediculous. if your having problems at idle then you have WAY larger problems than the fuel in the tank. in fact, if the timing was such that it would knock at idle, the engine wouldnt even tick over. if the timings ok, the engine is std and running properly then i doubt ud get any probs by running unleaded.

ive ran mine on normal unleaded since ive got it and ive never had ANY det.

i run a 073 ( i think offhand), its just a std battery, not the right one, but it does fine, and much cheaper

yep the figures sound about right.do an ECU check just to make sure its not in safety boost or anything stupid like that cos that makes a huge difference! i found cruise control to be terrible for MPG, it tried too hard to maintain the speed and i found it accellerating way harder than i would to keep a cruise. if you watch the vacuum gauge youl see what i mean. the smallest hill and it almost floors it and then backs off. hardly the best way to drive when ur trying to drive economically. the bottom line is, these cars are heavy and 300hp with two turbos, if u need petrol u put petrol in it. if thats not your cup of tea then buy a 306Tdi.:lol:

they probably blew the fuse when it was getting wired in, then rather than replace the fuse, they linked it out. either that or the load on the solenoids was too much for the fuse and kept blowing. i would replace the fuse with one of the correct rating and make sure it doesnt blow again. it sounds like there isnt actually a fault with the relay tho.if the car runs and the fuelpump turns off with the igniton then its fine. Fraser

sure it wasnt brake fade? if u were baking about for a while before u used the brakes then they could well be over heated.

ive just bought a set, havnt put them on yet, the compound feels well rough! its full of sintered metal or something, didnt realise they would squeel. il give them a go and see anyway.

did u check the oil level in the box correctly? with the box warm, engine running and in Neutral? it always looks high otherwise just a thought. Fraser

i got a powercoaters in aberdeen to do mine, £40 a wheel

bloody hell thats cheap! is that new wheels or just seals and bearings? any guarantee?

aye i was joking about. but yes the dissimelar metals react and corrode where the touch, roadsalt is a bute for helping the ions transfer causing the corrosion, so remember.LOADS of copper or moly grease

with an advert as good as that ud be stupid not to try them!

no thats the usually the reaction between the aluminium and the steel bolts. if the aluminium was melting......god help us all!!

if its cross-threaded then at least one thread will have been damaged, whether it be on the pipe fitting or on the caliper considering the fitting is steel and if u have alloy calipers u prob need a caliper now, if it was me id re tap it 1/4npt and make a new fitting up for the hose before i got a new caliper. dont do sticking or filling, esp with epoxy metals, itl not work and its certainly not a good idea on a 300hp supercar. take it off and see the damage before u go deciding the next course of action. Fraser

personally, i dont see what harm it is as long as it passes an MOT. but i dont know how that stands in the word of the law

ive just repaid my subs, ive not been here for a while like but i see theres mention of membership packs (finaly) is this true? do i get one thru the area rep? who is it now? i see Scottywil seems to be missing? cheers Fraser

right, thanks folks! ive ordered H3 lamps, im sure im right in saying that the H3c and H3 lamps are the same base patern but have 2 spades as apposed to 1 on the H3?

its not gonna be the fluid, check the suspension bushes and the front struts.

pads are probably down to the steel

hi ive done a search but cant find the answer to my question do the HID kits replace the high beam or the main beam? im pretty satisfied with the high beam as it is and just want the mains to be brighter. also are the jap TT's H1 or H1c lamps, i can never remember, im not at home just now so i cant check either. would be greatful if you could help me out so i can buy them tonight. Cheers, Fraser

Falkirk indoor carts are bloody ace! or edinburgh outdoor track as well. worth looking into

aye its almost certainly one of the turbo coolant hoses. or the little 6mm hose above the EGR valve, both are a fair task to change! youl end up with no skin on the back of your hands but it can be done. theres also a bypass that can be fitted but i just repaired mine properly. Fraser