fraser_gtti

EFI engines dont have a 'choke' as such. it could be heaps of things. none are easily described without going into too much detail. An ECU diagnosis would almost ceratainly point to the problem. try a forum search. Fraser

adrian flux caters for almost anything, give them a try unless your already with them of course

half the cars on this site dont seem to get enough use. the shit in the lifters will have settled to the bottom and the ball NRV will have probably stuck open, causing them to rattle. same goes for the oil pressure senders. these cars need to be used regularly, not take out once a year for a gentle drive. thats about 3 posts in 5 mins ive read that have had problems caused by the car sitting.

i have a question regarding car tracking. both the rear and front wheels are out of align. how do they set the rears dead on straight, before they track the front to the rear. i dont want the car to crab. how do i explain to the garage how they should go about it?

im with the master cylinder seals, sometimes they stick to the outside of the bore, or the moisture in the fluid makes the bore rusty, then the seal turns its self inside out. but see how it goes it might jst be something simple

on a std ecu with a working det sensor, on detonation it will switch to a separate map with retarded ignition and more rich fueling, it also closes the boost solenid to limit the boost

coil plug or bad connection on the PTU. do an ecu fault code check

has the JWT chip got a det map? if it hasnt then the det sensor wont be doing anything anyway.

yes as mentioned, sensor fault and not an indication of detting. but if you have a standard chip, then it will be in safety boost.

:bow: you the man!

yup, totally grits my shit on here. some folk think their an expert/know it all cos they have a consult,because they can changed a spark plug on their mates Z, or read a post of someone elses bullshit and pass it off as their own expertese. They'd rather write 2 sentences of abuse or smart arse bullsh*t than right the one sentence that could turn someones query on here from a weekend ball-ache to a 5min fix. have a nice evening

yup the only thing worth getting old for is the insurance discount.

well the info wasnt really for your benefit. smart arse, no wonder folk dont bother replying to threads these days :rolleyes:

have you checked ALL the fuses both fuse boxes in the engine bay and the one at the drivers footwell?

sounds like a bad earth like. the alternator seems like its charging. because the tickover is so low it probably wont charge till about 750-800 rpm, hence why u have to give it throttle to get 14.5V so its prob ok.

no need, just reset the ecu yourself, if the code clears and doesnt come back then it was an old code in the memory and all is well, if its still there or comes back soon after, then theres a re-curring problem

fix one thing at a time. you already know you need new balljoints and shocks. if its not that it could be a fooked diff or a propshaft bearing.

prob just cos uve disconnected things. so may be an old code. ecu can be reset by entering diagnostic mode and exiting again. (not just by switching off the ignition) or as mentioned disconnect the battery.altho using this method you might not leave it long enough and end up with the code still in memory which can cause ball ache. Fraser

hi, welcome! i agree with Dave G. insurance is a ball ache with these cars im 21 and had the car when i was 20 so insurance was mental. £2700 in the end. have a rake thru the site and see what common faults are. mine has ran like a sweety (for a 15 yo car that is) check out my rides section theres a list of some of the stuff ive done sonce i got it. anything else just ask Fraser

i was gonna go down in the Charade and show up some RST's :lol: but not if the weathers like this, its dropping lumps up here! il ever get the grip and i think a lot of folk wont bother either. Fraser

i keep seeing this one cutting about, std wheels and bumpers

you could use 2 of those regulators in parallel, or buy a cigarete lighter variable voltage supply (the ones u get at markets for charging phones and stuff) take it apart and solder wires on instead of the cigarette lighter adapter, i dont think there is such a supply on the car, if there is id be very surprised. Fraser

i was gonna say, uve replace everything except for the most obvious thing, (or first place to look) IMO checking them will also show up any colour changes between cylinder which might pin point another problem

should be easy to tell if its the AC pump, its dissengaged until u turn it on. when u turn on it will use a different bearing to the idle bearing in the pulley

magic! thats roughly what i thought, im gonna fill the outside with silicon like it was when i took it apart, the flanges are spotless and there was no sealent on them at all just a big bead where they meet. i marked the mating faces before i split them so jobs a goodun. just need to ream out the outer rims to fit the schraeder air valves. and im not using locking compound because theyre HT bolts and the nuts have locking grooves on them anyway, they wont fall off when their torqued properly. thanks for the help! Fraser