fraser_gtti

Yes and Yes but las mentioned, check its not just a nad connection. follow the wiring from the O2 sensor to the connecctors on the bulkhead and check they're in good condition failing that about 70 quid will get u a new one Fraser

no safety mode is probably the most inefficient way to run the engine, timing gets way retarded and it runs rich as hell, its there to prrotect the engine and limp home, not to run ecconomicaly Fraser

any of the traders on here, your local motor factors or im sure even Halfords could manage a new belt

yes

there was a company selling exchange ECU's from mild to wild, for about £170 if i remember right, were they a trader on here? i cant find them now i want one :( any help?

well you would know if theyre a newbie because the join date is still there. and does it really matter if theyre a newbie or not before you reply to a question? Thats quite poor IMO if you would only reply to long term or 'high posting' users

it sounds like the speed sensor is goosed, or a bad connection. the signal from this is used for the speedo and for the HICAS control. the autobox uses this signal so it knows where and when to change properly. The power light will flash when the ignition is turned of because it does a self diagnosis check before starting. it would have sensed the speed sensor was open or short circuit and brought up an error (displayed by the blinking power light) when you went for a drive and booted it, it would have gone into 'genuine' power mode (rather than blinkin to show a fault) so thats why it stayed on. its an easy fix, the speed sensor is inexpensive and probably can be cured by cleaning the contacts (which will have got corroded at this time of year by the salt and crap on the road). The sensor is located on the back of the gearbox near the propshaft hope this helps, Fraser

i was thinking of the old type i saw in an aircraft museum once

yip, ur right, i shoulda checked first. 2 secs on Google produced this : The Original "three-bank" Design The classical W engine uses three banks of cylinders, all connected to one crankshaft. One of the first W engine was a W3, built by Anzani in 1906 to be used in their motorbikes. It is this W3 engine which also powered the Blériot XI, the aircraft used by Louis Blériot when on the 25th of July, 1909, he made the first ever successful flight across the English Channel. The 1917 Napier Lion aircraft had a first W12 engine. Later, a W12 design was also pursued by Audi, who later abandoned the project. However, the Volkswagen Group later built an experimental W18 engine for Bugatti's EB 118 and EB 218 concept cars, but the design was determined to be impractical because of the irregular firing sequence required by the three rows of six cylinders. [edit] The Modern "four-bank" Design The Volkswagen Group (VAG) created the first successful automotive W engine with the introduction of their W12. It combined two narrow-angle VR6 engines around a single crankshaft for a total of four banks of cylinders. For this reason, the four-bank configuration is sometimes, and more accurately, referred to as a "VV" ("vee-vee" or "double-vee") to distinguish it from the traditional three-bank "W" design. The W-12 is used in the Volkswagen Phaeton, the Audi A8 and the Bentley Continental GT - though in the latter application, the engine has been highly modified by Bentley and fitted with twin KKK turbochargers. As a result, it produces considerably more power than the original version. The narrow (15°) angle between bank pairs makes this engine resemble a V12 in that it has just two cylinder heads and two sets of camshafts. VAG went on to produce a W16 prototype which produced 623 horsepower (465 kW) for the Bentley Hunaudières concept car. A quad-turbocharged version of this engine went into production in 2005 powering the 1001hp Bugatti Veyron 16.4. A W8 engine was also produced for use in the VW Passat. The major advantage of these engines is packaging, i.e., they contain high numbers of cylinders but are relatively compact.

i dont get that engine, its a 'W' config, with 3 banks, so how does 16 go into 3? any one?

heres a pic of a thrown rod, not nice! Best i could do Fraser

no, vaseline is for anal and leaking T-tops wd40 for cars ;) wouldnt have thought it would be a good idea to try it the other way round either.

mine comes out in any gear, i thought the key lock button was purely mechanical, a kind of anti high-jak thing so if u were driving with the roof off then no one could nick ur keys easily. give it a skoosh of WD40 mine sometimes feels a little dry and it makes all the difference.

the battery might be goosed, collapsed cell and not holding charge do the test as above that rules out the charging system, failing that its a dead battery or a drain somewhere. with the ignition off, disconnect the + terminal of the battery and put a Ammeter in series with it and see if there is a large drain (i dont know the standard drain for the clock and stuff that runs with the ign off) but it shouldnt be more than 1-2A. if its more than 10A tho it will destroy most Ammeters so if there are fairly big 'popping' sparks its probably too high for the metre, but if u can rub the terminal on the battery post and it sounds 'gritty' with sparks then its probably ok. hard to explain, but there u go then if you find a high drain then its a case of checking the alarm,boot light etc... till you find the cause

when my det sensor brought up a code it, idled slow, never had problems with stalling tho. if the 'computer' nissan used was a consult then, chances are its right enough and does need a de sensor (code 34)

heres a tip when doing the exhaust hanger rubbers, give them a wee squirt of WD40 and the slide in no hass. doesnt make the job any less unpleasent but certainly helps to save knuckles when lying on ur back

do these actually make a noticable difference in performance with them removed? cos if they do thats this afternoons job ;)

it shouldnt, but u might get some crank case fumes coming out, altough at idle it should be pulling a vacuum so nothing would be able to get out anyway, perhaps its the orings on the top of the injectors, because the engine bay is so hot, the fuel evaporates that quick you can never find the leak. have you actually checked the condition of the hoses themselves rather than just the fittngs?

well if the rings are baked or the pistons are holed then that wont give a code. the engine wont run on 1/6 of the cylinders. youl have to check the rest of them. if its over fueling and theres a spark then it should at least fire, unless there is no compression. in which case your goosed. are the plugs coming out wet? if not, put a splash of petrol down each plughole and spin it over, if it fires a few times then its an injector related problem. doesnt sound good tho

for all the load it takes, fill the hole with Belzona and tap it 6mm again

well the rolls-royce ones come out everytime on the gas turbines.

despite the wolf3D having an inbuilt MAP sensore it can also run an external MAP and or a MAF. plus it does boost control and has loads of aux inputs/outputs so for instance you could have an external knock unit feeding in to an aux and switching to a low boost setting or a totally different map from the cartrige. it controls PWM AAV's for idle control altough the V4+ can do stepper motor control as well.

dont helicoil, just tap it bigger. what size are the original ones 6mm? just tap them out to 8 and largen the holes in the flange. helicoils suck anyway, they always come out when you unscrew them

ok. but not every one has a rolling road in the house to try it out over all the load points. i meant tuning a chip is the same or V simelar to tuning a standalone ecu

any one who dynos cars should be able to do it. its just a map. fueling is still in mS or % of duty cycle and ignition is just advance retard in deg