fraser_gtti

bolts look about 8mm, from what i can remember off hand, and theyre high tensile. funnily enough ive just picked the centres up from the powder coaters,theyve done a lovely job! awesome work! gonna put them together tommorrow. they cant go on that tight, because theres only 5 bolts at 65ft/lbs to hold the whole wheel on so 50odd bolts cant be very tight seeing as the loads shared between them Fraser

if your cars pretty much standard, you can frig out the det sensor with a 1 meg resistor. ive been driving mine like that for about a year now on normal unleaded with NO probs Fraser

the warning light with the squiggles comes on if u try to start the car in 'D' and comes on if the cats overheat as well (jap models) could well be the alternator, check the batter voltage is 12V (ish) with the engine off and then check again with the engine running, should be 14.5V (ish) that should help diagnose the alternator before you spend more cash on it

was prob an old code then. at least it passed

i just dont understand how that would cause unburnt fuel to enter the exhaust

well if thats what youv decided to do, then yes change it out.

no because weve just disussed how the std det sensor is redundant anyway due to your JWT chip not having a knock map

not really, it would only clear the code. it would have no other effect/benefit

the o-ring wouldnt cause the injector to leak fuel, it would only draw air in making the mixture in that cylinder leaner

its not going into safety boost because there is no settings for safety boost, if there was then it would be in it just now because there is a fault with the det sensor. even if you had no error code,the det sensor was working properly and you got genuine detting, the ecu wouldnt do anything about it and you would continuse to destroy your engine. so yes, you could be doing bad things to your engine, but whether you have a working det sensor or not, it wouldnt help. consider your det sensor as useless whether its working or not. Fraser

http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/ECUdiagnostics.html http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/detonationSensor/detonationSensor.html

you can enter diag mode by using the shorted wire method and then shorting the terminals out again to clear it (exiting diag mode). you will still be getting 15psi, because the std solenoid is bypassed, there for if its got a standard chip or one with a det map, then it will change the timing and fueling maps, but will not be able to reduce the boost.

thats why your getting AFR/emmission probs probs, its caused it to run mental rich and retard the timing. its not likely to do with the Profec, itl be that the det sensor is totally goosed or the harness is broken, just bypass it for the mot then fix it later but its a plenum off job. Fraser

from the looks of that article, it would appear so. i would arrive at the station and disconnect it in the car park, i wouldnt drive it under boost like that with no FPR. i think all its doing is making the AFR leaner by inducing extra/unmetered air to the cylinder. its not very technical, but id try it myself for the sake of passing an mot. the test should be carried out at idle anyway so no harm should come of it. Fraser

well its too late now cos theyre in bits, ive centre dabbed all the parts so they go together the same way, theres nothing technical about the way its sealed, its just filled with a rubbery/silicone sealant and torqued up. would that guy in blackpool be the guy who was featured in J-tuner mag? the minilite fella?

if the plug's white that suggests running lean. and id tend to check out the injector a bit further. but doing a compression test will take no time, and do no harm. it could just be the NRV in the injector thats ticking and not the solenoid.

ive stripped my wheels to paint the centers, does any one know what i should torque the bolts to? they were bloody tight to come off but they were corroded and held on with locking compound so i dont know how tight the actually were. cheers, Fraser

coolant sensor is the yellow one on top of the coolant pipe beside the radiator. its normally all green in there, althoug when it goes open circuit, the electric fan normaly comes on. but it could still just be a dodgy connection. i thought the one on the block was for the gauge?! **** it, check them both just for the crack and as mentioned, the code 21 is most likely the CAS connector. although im surprised the engine ran with a fault like that. Fraser

Sure as hell it'l be the speed sensor or the connector to it will be dirty. start there. its on the gearbox housing near the propshaft. take the connector off and give it a clean first, then if that makes no difference it will be the sensor its self. Fraser

so the calipers have been rebuilt? does the hardware pack mean piston seals like?

ok looks like 2 post is the best option, i kinda thought that before anyways, but thought id throw it up and see what folks opinions were. if i get a cheap 3 phase one, il just swap the motor or build an external HPU for it. wont be a problem. if anyone hears of one coming up for sale give me a shout. il be looking on ebay in the mean time. Thanks folks! Fraser

doubt it would cause a problem, its more likely to be a sticky calliper. Fraser

dont over do it, most folk go nuts with the stuff in the doors and cake up the drain holes in the bottom, or in the bottom of the sills. this then causes more harm than good. heating it is good, ive never been impressed with the pump sprayers but if you buy an underseal gun an spray it on with that. it normally comes with a cavity tube anyway. remember if your thinning it down with white spirit or another thinners, itl both cause a highly flamable vapour, and leave a waxy film on your windscreen. but at least the car will smell nice for a few weeks :) Fraser

im looking for a car lift but cant decide whether to go for a 2 or 4 post. the only disagvantage i can see with the 2 poster is the fact that you couldnt track the wheels easily because the posts are in the way and the weight isnt supported on the wheels. the four post lift could prove to be a pain in the arse when welding and stuff because the ramps are normally wide and bulky. can any one fill me in with some other pros and cons of each? and also if you know of one for sale? will consider single or 3phase. Cheers, Fraser

cheers folks!