Everything posted by fraser_gtti
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no smokey
well if the seals have gone i doubt puting the cats on will 'heal' them. but regardless of the problem, the cats are hiding the problem
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no smokey
no fair point, but i think its probably buring the oil in more ideal conditions, higher temp and extra air from the IIV's
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no smokey
well theyl convert it to oxides of sulphur and nitrogen then. how can you say a catalytic convertor doesnt 'convert'?
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no smokey
i have to agree, the cat is simply burning the oil off and converting it so you dont see any smoke. yes to an extent if you can increase the backpreassure higher than the oil pressure in the turbo then you could stop the oil migrating the seals, but that would pretty much involve welding the exhausts shut
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stock audio
i dont know what the stock wattage is on them but i think the impedence is lower than normal car speakers that are about 8ohms
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just bought this wideband AFR meter
the innovate looked ok but dont think it had such a good sampling rate, it used a different lambda sensor too
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Smoke but not normal symptoms
id double check there isnt a PCV stuck open, it might be at vacuum theres oil being drawn through from the crankcase.
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Dundee cruise?
no i hinna spoken to him since Crail last year. no idae bud
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Dundee cruise?
well i think theres a heap of us staying over in a travel inn cos theres a mini cup challenge on at knockhill on the Sunday. would be cool to meet up with a few of yous. just hope i can get it finnished in time!
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just bought this wideband AFR meter
i looked at the the WBO2 2EO version i think, but i chose this one instead because of the better sampleing rate.
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Advice on Compression Test Results
yip as mentioned you HAVE to do it with wide open throttle. thats the most common reason for all cyls to be low. or a choked air filter!
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Dundee cruise?
anyone going to this? theres a load of us coming down from Aberdeen for a look, i should have the Z on the road by then cos it could do with a good run before i drive down to Trax, failing that il be in the mighty GTti
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just bought this wideband AFR meter
been looking at these for a while and decided to buy this one with the LCD display. should be here in a few days. has anyone on here got/used one? it must be better than the bosch LSM-11 sensor i had, which wasnt truely wideband, it was a narrow band sensor with an extrapolated range. http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt2/zt2.htm Fraser
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Wierd speed readings"
it sounds like its been de limited by using one of those cheapo solder in chips, it basically just converts the signal going to the ecu, depending where u have spliced in your head up display to the loom, you could be reading the modified signal going to the ecu rather than the 'clean' signal going to the std speedo.
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Aghhh jeez it's got worse
try plugging in a consult or a Blatz cable to interrogate the ecu, the actual voltage seen by the ECU will be displayed on the screen. you may be measuring the wrong pin and chasing your tail
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Bitter disappointment today
is it a manual craig?
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High idle
it sounds air flow related anyway, check for boost leaks and check the connection for the AAV at the rear of the engine isnt dodgy. pull the fault codes too
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timing
use a good old fashioned stobe light and put it in series with the HT lead, saves a lot of bother from the induction type units, and theyre cheaper too.takes all of 1min to unbolt the coilpack to fit it. if it was jumping about like crazy it could be the TPS adjustment is out, causing the ECU to alter the timing. make sure the base idle is steady and the engine is fully up to temp, also check there are no fault codes in the ECU and everything else is healthy
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Dodgy noise on starting
could be a knackered torque convertor if its an auto,
- hi new guy here
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Vibration at 40mph +
have you even checked for play in the ball joints and bushes? before you randomly go replacing bits here there and everywhere?
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Vibration at 40mph +
vibe thru the steering abt 50mph is usually wheel balance. check all the front and rear suspension bushes and balljoints too for play.
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Idle adjustment
check the TPS settings are right as the idle switch might not be set right. but as Lymon suggests, this will illiminate this
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Door locks jammed
itl b stuck with not being used, keep piling in the WD40 and rattleing the key in and out and wiggeling
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damn still on five
i think a compression check on the offending cylinder could be in order.