fraser_gtti

no im wrong, ignore me

is 54 not the det sensor? if it is then itl be running retarded timing and rich as hell, that would explain the CO being high

i bet that sounds fantastic!!

try eBay i got mine from there. it saved me having to ream the wheels out and fit rubber valves.

i meant to post this ages ago. heres some pics of a tool i knocked up to press out the balljoints. dunno if it will inspire someone to help do theirs or not. it worked a treat ;) id like to see how the proper nissan tool looked

ABS doesnt care what size your brakes are, all it knows is, if you're stomping on the stoppers, and the wheels start to lock then the ABS releases the brakes and re-applies them. if you increase the size of your brakes and increase your stopping power then the tyres are more likely to skid than before. therefore the ABS will seem to be kicking in earlier. but over all your braking power will still be greatly improved by the big brakes.

AAaarh your right!! ive been staring at that page for ages and never twigged! thanks for your help!

theres one short headbolt for each bank. where does it go? i cant find any info in the manual. any ideas? cheers

i tried locking the cam in the vice but its on tight. i had a peg spanner in the pulley but i couldnt get any purchase on it. its just tight

cheers john il attack it with my rattle gun. its just an arse of a thing to hod to stop it from turning.

how do you get the variable cam pulley off? is the 19mm nut left or right hand thread? it seems pretty tight.

im very surprised the zed engine uses circlips. id check your bores arent oval as thats more likely to cause slap. my GTti doesnt have circlips, the gudgeon pin is pressed in to the rod. my RS125 had a teflon coated piston

look at the new wolf3D V500 it has a plug and play kit for the VG30DETT. ive got the old V4 and its a GREAT ECU with a fantastic resolution (125rpm between speed sites) http://www.aems.com.au

i welded up a tool to press them out in situ. had to remove the rear strut tho but it worked a beauty. il post pics of it if i remember. no amount of hammering was gonna push mine out. you cant get a proper swing at it in the wheel arch and because the hub is mounted on rubber bushes there was too much flex to get a good crack at it.

with such a short skirt and large diameter. im not surprised they slap.

how exactly do you plan to start the pump? just a flick switch on the dash? youl empty the tub in minutes.

turn the ign off. the batter voltage should be about 12.5-13v start the car and the voltage should rise to about 14.5-15v if the voltage goes down or doesnt rise at all it save to assume the charging system is dead. some cars might only charge over 900-1000 RPMs but when the revs increase the voltage should be a stable voltage if it rises with RPM and falls then the regulator is probably knackered.

what is the advantage of CO2? is it the pressure drop across the nozzle causing the air to refrigerate?

i made up my own for the GTti using some tube and a bosch fuel pump to supply the water at pressure with a variable bleed return to the tank (to control the flow) the resevoir was a BMW windscreen washer tank. i set the ECUs aux output to start the pump when intake temps were above 20 degc AND when boost was over 15psi at more than 50% throttle.this way it wasnt on everytime you pulled away. intake temps dropped about 5-10 deg depending on speed of airflow through the cooler. doesnt sound like much but i was able to squeeze in a few more deg advance on the timing. i thought an aqaumist sprayed into the inlet charge and not onto the surface of the cooler? i think we may be talking about 2 different systems here?

looks like he got up though (21secs). careless over taking by the car, and probably bad road position by the bike too, by the time the car goes to over take the bike would unlikely be in either the rear view mirror or the side window as he was hidden by the rear pillar. theres only ever gonna be one winner in a situation like that and its not gonna be a bike

whether the LSD slips going round a corner or slips on a brake roller is neither here nor there. i wouldnt sit with it slipping all day like, but the oil should keep it plenty cool for the duration of the test.

im looking for an inlet cam pulley from a zed so i can make VVC for it if anyone has one lying about going cheap?

ye thats exactly what i do. folk get too anal about balancing turbos. IMO

my alternator is soaked in oil as well, i havnt had a good look yet its either the front crank seal or something else. i thought it was the auto tensioner, but since ive been informed it didnt have an oil feed it cant be that.

nope, ive been running it at 24psi for months now with a hybrid made from an isuzu trooper turbine wheel and a compressor housing turned out on the lathe. but after a sheared turbine shaft and several oil seal rebuilds id had enough and the standard VQ14 was miles out its efficiency map so the intake temps were up about 50deg. so i had to retard the ignition loads and enrich it to about 11.8 AFR to stop det so its holding back a LOT!! :rofl: .still running OE head gasket, std comp ratio.comes with forged rods and pistons as std. ive done bloody loads to this engine. this was just something i thot some would be interested in cos it was the 300zx turbos might post more later if i get time tonight