fraser_gtti

oh right, il get a better look when i come home. its maybe not that at all. cheers

cheers folks, never posted my other projects on here before as they were non-zed related. the turbo its self isnt close to the radiator (or certainly no closer than the std turbo was) the down pipe looks crap cos i run out of bends, but it does swoop close to the rad. not close enough to cause any problems with it tho. il be moving the rad back about 4 inches and angleing it slightly to allow the cossie Intercooler to sit bahind the grill between the 2 headlights. there will be more room now as the std intercooler which was down the bottom in front of the gearbox will be removed.

put whatever you like on it, as long as it keeps the moisture off, it wont oxidise

cheers guys, youl maybe appreciate the last mod i did then: The standard throttle body is very narrow (34mm), and im pretty sure there are gains to be had in fitting a larger one. The thing is theres not much else will fit it, after obtaining this RS turbo item i thought id fit it. problem is, obviously the flange holes PCD is different (larger and wont line up with the bolt holes) so i spent today modifying the std GTti plenum and machining an adapter flange to mount the RS turbo throttle body Steve gave me. started with a bit of 6mm aluminium, marked and drilled the holes and roughly drilled out the center then used the rotary file in the drill to smoothen out the middle (god i wish i had a plasma cutter and a milling machine!:lol: ), and counter bored the inner (original standard flange) holes and turned bolts on the lathe so the heads would sit flush with the top of the plate. then hacksawed a flat so i could tighten them up. then i cut the bolts to length. then i tapped the outer flange (for the RS throttle body) 8mm. After drilling the clearence holes in the throttle body (which were originaly 6mm) then this assembly was bolted to the plenum and checked for flushness. i used the cut down bolts as studs for the throttle body. the neck of the std plenum is about 2mm slightly smaller than the throttle body bore. so i tapered the plate to help flow, id like to have enlarged the hole more, but didnt want to risk reducing the wall thickness of the neck too much and cause i fracture in the future.... here is it fitted and bolted up (no gaskets yet) just to see how it looks and how smooth the bore is....looking nae bad so far.............. here is a look down the bore with wide open throttle it looks more restrictive than it is, i think its jst because the metal is shinier there but as you will see in the next pic, its MUCH better than the original (shown in the middle)!!! standard GTti throttle body top:

next step is using the zed EGR valve to make an anti-lag. ive got a 2wd cossie intercooler to mount on the front, then its just a case of piping it up. the only thing that made me shove this turbo on was the turbine ring seal was worn on the std IHI turbo and a replacement was going to be £370+vat. ive bought a rebuild kit for this Garrett so il over haul it now i know it fits.

this isnt the final downpipe, just one thrown together so could hear it go. il use this as a jig to make a better one later.

ive made the oil supply lines and got the oil drain sussed. i just need one more flange to go out the turbo and down to the exhaust :( oil line all made up and flared oil drain flange made and pipe cut and ready to weld on flange welded and bolted up to turbo trial fit

dunno if anyones interested i had a spare couple of turbos from the Zed, so i knocked up a manifold and stuck them on the GTti, turns out from the compressor maps, its pretty much ideal. it should haul now :hyper:

there must be some sort of o-ring behind it so it can move and still seal against the block. maybe this is where its leaking?

it wasnt smoking that i could notice. but it had the cats on, so that would hide the smoke. the oil was either in the plenum (blown from the turbo throught the compressor) and ended up on the hot tube. or has been blown through the turbine seals and up throught the EGR tube on the exhaust manifold.

not unless you had go-go gadget arms :lol: seriously tho. you could probably get off the pipes EGR valve to the plenum but it would be one hell of a struggle to get the one from the manifold to the EGR valve. if you just want to check the tubes youd be as well taking off the plenum. im using the EGR as an anti-lag setup on the Charade ;)

passengers side: drivers side: that would make it run like shit eh? im junking the EGR anyway so im not bothered, im just curious to know how it got there. theres obviously oil coming from somewhere and carbonising in the tube.

well it really has to go out the bottom then. its tight enough between the torquconvertor and the bulk head, and the front pulley and the air con rad when the engine comes out on its own. and youd need a very high hoist to get it out easily, unless you want to let the car right down.

since hauling my engine out it looks like the oil wasnt coming from the crank seal, but from the seal round the plunger on the auto tensioner. is this a common problem?

cool, il make up some small blank flanges for under the plenum. and the AIVs can get binned too as all they do is fill up with water! aye the connetions are a ball ache, the looms so baked and brittle your afraid to bend them too much in case they snap!

started ripping the engine out yesterday. its a fair task! should get it out today. This is how the EGR should look (drivers side) This one is choked with carbon (drivers side) no wonder it runs like shit! i was thinking about ditching the EGR and the AIVs as my new de cat pipes dont have the tappings for the air injection. will this be ok?

what is the stroke and bore of the VG30dett and il do a quick sum

whats the problem? its a fixed diameter orifice that you can buy off the shelf and in different sizes. plus they fit nicely in the tube. i use a washing up scrubber to clean my wheels. maybe i should buy a propper 'alloy brush' because i have wheels and not plates?

as ive said before

could well be a det sensor (code 34) or an engine temp sensor. but the ECU check will point to anything sensor related, after that its a case of checking vacuum hoses, but start with the easy shit first like the ECU diag and you might get lucky

welcome!

its either got an air lock or the valve isnt opening. its only a mini radiator and a fan. that pretty much all it can be

you HAVE to do the full throttle test before you come to any sensible conclusion, otherwise your results wont tell you shit

that or the gearbox is fooked

ive got a manix alarm/imobiliser on the charade, has remote start. works for deisel, autos and manuals. fully programmable, theres just no thatcham cert with it, shame really cos its a fantastic alarm with remote pager and so many other features.