fraser_gtti

if this is a stock gauge then i wouldnt take it too seriously. could be the stock sender dying as it heats up. if its an aftermarket gauge, then it depends how much it drops off by, oil pressure will naturally decrease as the temperature rises and it gets thinner

folk can please themselves. wozzer gave his advice.....i gave mine, what folk plan to do with that information or whether or not you consider it "bullshit" is totally up to themselves........

ye i was gonna say, you could by a 20ft roll of copper/nickle and a flaring tool for about the same price likely, and then at least youl be able to knock up a load more brake lines in future. ;) you might get away with re-using the old nuts but if not, go to a scrappy and rip them off a car with and ABS unit as theres HUNDREDS all in one spot, usually good condition too.

ye im the same, ive done 5 now on different cars. ive done about 3 RHB5's and 2 Zed turbos. piece of piss if you have the Torx drives and a small enough torque wrench for the shaft. none of them have ever failed. still going strong. i know a few other members have done the same with no problems at all. i guess if you dont trust yourself to do it properly then send it off to someone who will balance and rebuild them. but its up to yourself at the end of the day.

whatever :rolleyes: im not going to rise to your crack. you already posted some unconstructive crap on my wanted turbo thread. so if thats the height of your knowledge then id love to hear more. by the way its "you're"

rubbish, have some balls man. if it was balanced before and you put it back on at exactly the same point, how can it no longer be balanced?

you dont need to balance them if you mark the orientation of the compressor on the shaft. just remember to put the bevelled circlip on the right way round for the seal plate or it destroys the thrust collar. you can get a good exploded diagram from http://www.melett.com/turbo-parts-catalogue/garrett/Garrett-T2-25-28.pdf it also goves info on the 360 bearing kit. looks like you have to drill and tap a small thread. but no big deal.

you will still need a remap, read Dave Walkers write up on it. you need to run a lot more fuel to get to stoich than you will with petrol. sure ethanol has a 9:1 stoich but E85 is a ethanol petrol blend. its recommended that you use pickled anodised tanks fuel lines etc as the ethanol has O2 in at a molecular level and therefor can cause corrosion in a steel or un pickled alloy tank. the reason that most of the E85 pumps are locked off is because it wont run on any cars without modification. i dont see what problems you can percieve with the injectors, all injectors use a live feed and are pulled down to earth by the ECU.

jesus! thats insane. probably cheaper buying proper racing fuel. Av-gas is far cheaper than that but it contains lead

bring back leaded fuels!!! just kills cats, lambda sensors and kids brains what price is it?

would it not be a lot easier to just rebuild the TT engine? what exactly has 'blown-up' ?

will do Rob, ive just imported a paddle clutch from NewZeland as the uprated on currently in it slips like a bitch with the big turbo and IC running at 17psi. im trying to get hold of another decent turbo as that one is pretty goosed. i knew that when i installed it but now i know it works il get a better turbo. so il stick a new clutch on it, rebuild the LSD and take another vid. il also take it for a dyno run too. the thing is insane to drive!

not without MUCH bigger injectors and a full re-map

no joy im afraid its just biodiesel they offer. i found a link: http://www.saabbiopower.co.uk/pumplocations/ theres one in the borders by the looks of it but there MUST be other places to get this fuel further north, not just from Morrisons stores.

ive heard Morrisons sell this in England, but is there a petrol station locator i can use to find out where about in Scotland they sell this stuff?? ive tried google but i just get dead links. cheers

personally id buy turbos with a smaller AR so they have less lag, or buy tubular manifolds etc something that will make the gas flow more efficient. id rather run a shot of NOS to over come lag than to go to all the hassle of anti-lay again. its too much heart ache. seems an awfully expensive sound-effect to me. what kind of driving do you do that its so neccessary? just try left foot braking to keep them wound up.

there is a very slight possibility that the resistance is high in the other earth and therefore robbing all the juice from the injectors/ignition circuit etc...but i doubt it. you REALLY need that connected anyway so id replace it before you keep cranking it over. a simple way to see would be to take a jump lead from the neg on the battery to a shiny bit on the block (to act as a temp earth)

in that case then yes, just remove the vac signal and plug the balance bar. by the looks of the diagram, removing the vac will allow the spring tension to default the valve to closed (which is what you want): i actually used the now redundant EGR valve to make the anti-lag for the GTti :dance:

i agree greg, who cares if theres too much NOx in the gas for f sake? its a bloody 3000cc TT! what i meant was, if theres a problem with the EGR being stuck/blocked etc plugging the vacuum port may not work, because if the valve is physically stuck open, then changing the vac signal will not change the fact that its stuck. therfore blanking the plenum intakes and manifold is the only way. mine were coked solid when i took them off

i know that. i was only wondering if that was the reason. as there may be other ways to overcome the problem

no. you can just plug the vaccuum signal from the ballance bar to the SOV and remove the rest of tubing and the EGR valve its self. is there actually any reason for doing this mod?

ok, well i ran anti lag on my charade GTti (which i fitted a T25/T2 to from my 300zx) the turbine temps were insane even on low boost with next to no timing retard. the thrust bearings cant take the explosion forces caused by the sudden expansion of gas in the turbine housing (compared to the more gradual burn which usually happens in the cylinders). ive got pics of my melted thrust collar if anyones interested?? might be ok with an uprated turbo with 360deg bearings, but certainly not on a std one. in the end i just changed the timing and modified the manifold to reduce the lag (which i should have done in the first place) hope that helps

you have to plug the fitting on the passangers side manifold and fit blank flanges under the plenums in place of the EGR pipes. theres very little space to get to it and reach down the back. i did it with the engine out no bother. i cut the metal pipe from the manifold and removed the fitting, filled it with weld to turn it into a plug, and screwed it back in. then i made up blank flanges to fill the holes on the plenum...its pretty easy.

your turbos will last about a day. and considering theyre a nightmare to change out on the zed, i wouldnt bother. even if it is a soft lag. if its just the sound you want then turn off the over-run fuel cut, and lean everything off on the over run and retard the timing at about 2-4krpm at min load. then itl pop bang and fart all you like if you get it right ;)