fraser_gtti

is it really 4mm toe-in? is that right? seems excessive. ive just stuck my gauges on and its 1.5mm toe in - - - Updated - - - http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/ra/007.gif forgot to post the link to the manual

has anyone got these for a TT auto? i presume theyre all the same HICAS or not. in mm please. cheers, Fraser

check your Detanation sensor is working. pull the fault codes and see.

using it as a 'fudge' to allow running high boost on an more or less standard car is not a great idea. uprating the intercoolers is a far better idea. good luck.

it sounds like the ECU isnt seeing the engine crank, if you have changed the CAS then there could be an issue with the wiring. have you tried pulling pin 16 (at the ECU end) to earth to confirm the wiring bettween the ecu and the ECCS relay is pulling in? it would be interesting if you pulled the ECCS in with a link wire to earth and cranked the engine to see if the ing and injectors fired. but if its not pulling the FP relay in to prime either, then the ECU sounds like its a dead stick. the ECCS relay should pull on with the Ign relay as the ign comes on and during cranking, if it doesnt, the CAS wont be powered and it will never see a trigger. check that during cranking you have 12v on pin 43 as there is a fuse there that is only used when the key is on 'start' the EML lamp is not fed from the ECU, but fed externally and pulled down to ground by the ECU. so just because the lamp is on, it doenst mean that the ECU has power. if you havent done so already, check thers is power at the ecu during ign and during crank - diagrams below. http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/efec/104.gif http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/efec/105.gif if you have checked all the above and have good ground connections as you say you have and pin 16 wont pull the ECCS relay in then it can really only be the ECU. are you definitely getting 12v up to the coil side of each relay (FP/IGN/ECCS)? shorting pins 16+18 to ground at the ECU plug would prove this. i've kinda jumped about a bit but i hope this helps a bit.

not directly, but what exactly are you hoping to achieve? do you have detonation issues?

For anyone who is interested or has a similar fault in future, i changed out the ABS control module and solved the problem instantly. it must have had a spike or a surge at some point either being jump started or more likely when the batter lead fell off while the engine was running. thanks for everyones input. cheers,

that wouldnt explain why the odometer isnt reading though as it's a separate drive.

Check the connection between the speed pick up to the loom.

as my car has been layed up for years, all 3 of the belts are cracked and have ribs missing. i used to think there were differences in the belts between Auto/man or Jap/Euro is this right? or are they all the same? what are the Gates part numbers so i can order some up for me being home next week? i would phone the motor factors myself but dont want to end up with the wrong ones. cheers, Fraser

yes but not exactly, its a relationship between engine speed and throttle position. wide throttle+low speed (high load)= virtually no vacuum closed throttle+low speed(low load)= small vacuum closed throttle+high speed (low load/over-run)=high vacuum etc...

yup, lots to check. I cant see how the HICAS unit can tell if there is both no speed signal AND know when its over 15mph at the same time. That would would require more than one set of pulses surely? or both a speed signal and a logic 'yes im over 15mph' signal from the speedo amp, which i dont see. im curious myself about how this works. pin outs are here: http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/st/069.gif

possibly the 'speedo head', but that wouldnt explain the HICAS light. more diagnosis required to be certain.

its speed sensor related then. HICAS/PAS uses speed sensor to give variable 'weight' to the steering, proportional to speed. check connectors on the sensor off the gearbox, and or replace sensor if needed.

most chinese usb-RS232 are prolific firmwear. you can get drivers here. ive used this a few times. http://www.serialgear.com/USB-Serial-adapter-drivers-windows-mac-linux.cfm as said already, try different combo of USB ports and adapters, keep checking the virtual port assigned each time matches the software. you can slow the Baud rate down, sometimes if its too fast for some kit, then gradually increase it. although it sounds like this issue is the port wont open. its hit or miss what ones work. virtual ports are a nightmare and a laptop with a real serial port is silly money. the best luck ive had getting ECUs/widebands/dataloggers etc to run is to use a PCMCIA to serial card. it seems to give less bother, dual ones are handy. dont need drivers either which helps.

Just been out this morning and stuck the scope on each wheel sensor at the control unit connector. all the signals back are steady and consistent from each wheel, nice sine-waves with not funny shapes (which would indicate a damaged or dirty tooth ring) so cant see anything wrong with them. if i disconnect the control unit AND the solenoid/actuator relay, the lamp goes out. which makes sense as per the schematic in the book. any other things to test before i buy an 'unknown' control unit to swap it with?

I'll need to try something like that. i cant remove it and link across the relay it because that causes the coil to go O/C and bring the lamp on through the module. the relay must be working because the actuators....actuate, and the pump goes like crazy when i try and lock it up on a gravel road. I think i would need a nissan ABS test unit to hook in series with the control unit in order to 'see' what's going on. i hate blindly changing out stuff before ive proved what the fault is, most often you end up with more problems than you started with. lol cheers! i hate faults like this that dont make sense. cheers!

i doubt it, the light is on, so there is definitely power on one side of it. from the diagram, there are 2 things which can turn it on- the control unit can pull it to earth and so can the solenoid/actuator relay (when its de energised).

it does, ive already proved the switch by linking the connector out. (its not even wired into the ABS unit)

ye, PAS is fine. ( i fitted that hose this morning that you sent, no more ATF drips. thanks again)

This thread has now turned into a 'my ABS light is on and wont go out' there were no issues when the car was parked up a few years ago. dash 'ANTI-LOCK' light is on continuously the ABS works fine no flashing LED on the control unit while the engine is running i have tested all the pin-outs to earth and there are no issues (pins 20, 10, 34) power at all the pins that should have power (1 on the connector and all the power pins on the actuator+motor) Alternator shows 14.2V at pin 15 i read on some posts that the fluid level switch can cause it, but it doesnt even go into the control unit, i proved it anyway by shorting the connector. All it does is bring on the ( P ) handbrake light. I read JeffTTs old thread about issues with jump starting, i pulled the case off the control unit but didnt see the burnt tracks that he had. to prove the control unit was working, i pulled the actuator relay and it started flashing a '10' so it is working. really stuck now. would love some help before i go swapping out control units etc...which iam loathed to do until ive tried EVERYTHING else. cheers,

haha, ye thanks, i found it after ripping all the trim out the RH side of the boot, then followed the harness down to the side of the rear seat. managed to clear a code 1 - the solenoid was 27ohms. cleaned it all up and its down to 1.3 ish ohms which is within spec. the LED doesnt flash now but the the ABS light is still on the dash. any ideas? ive followed all the fault finding procedures in the book and i need more direction. the ABS is working fine. its just the dash light is on all the time. of the actuator relay was bust it would be pulling the lamp down to earth and making it come on, is that correct?

hi folks. my ABS light wont go out and i want to pull the codes off the LED on the side of the control module. I cant make put its location by the manual. Its not beside the actuator unit, can someone point me to where it is to save me pulling heaps of boot trim off that doesnt need to come off? cheers.

can you not do the crank seal in situ by driving a self tapper into it and pulling it out?

great news :-)