fraser_gtti

ye. no one will really want to buy a car which pulls to the left anyway.

as a general rule, cylinder 1 is always nearest the timing belt.

this is a better pic http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/efec/013.gif

sorry, im wrong, the FET's are in the PTU, thats the whole point of having it. I think its just a 5v sq wave trigger to the PTU if i remember right so it wont take much to cause grief.

ye, if it was the cas it would affect all inj and ign triggering, cranking FP running etc. there the next thing to do would be to back probe the ECU connector on the pins for the affected coil trigger signals and see whats happeing there. you might be lucky and simply unplugging and refitting the ECU plug is enough to sort a bad connection. it does get a bit damp down there.. if its ok then its a wiring fault affecting both cores for each PTU signal. have you stabbed the cores of the PTU plug with the scope in case the plug terminals are rotten/broken off? i'd be surprised if it was the ECU as theres a separate transistor for each output, so both FETs would have to be dead, unless theres a common track thats gone O/C but its definitely something O_o

http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/diag/001.gif

how were you checking for signal from the ECU to the PTU? with a 'scope?

you need to block both the 2xbolt flanges on the underside of the manifold/plenum. and you will need to cap the line from the manifold to the EGR valve, or if the valve does open (and it still works) it will blow fumes around the bay. the valve is on the back of the block above the bell housing. its a pig, yes. You can get your hand down the back but you will have to tell your friends that you werent trying to slice your wrists on purpose.

i've just re-read your post. if it's a serial lead on the conzult and you dont have a serial port on the laptop then yes, you will need a USB-serial convertor.

i've just re-read your post. if it's a serial lead on the conzult and you dont have a serial port on the laptop then yes, you will need a USB-serial convertor.

check: control panel- system- hardware- device manager- ports, and see what COM port is available and select that you can go advanced and change the port to suit the app (if the app only defaults to COM1). Virtual ports are a nightmare and rename themselves all the time which causes havoc with conflicts. if you find out what code 5 means it might help, ie- port already open, not found....

check: control panel- system- hardware- device manager- ports, and see what COM port is available and select that you can go advanced and change the port to suit the app (if the app only defaults to COM1). Virtual ports are a nightmare and rename themselves all the time which causes havoc with conflicts. if you find out what code 5 means it might help, ie- port already open, not found....

if the EML is on, pull the codes and see what its trying to tell you. for instance, a duff temp sender will make the aux fan come on, make the mixture richer and bring on the EML

if the EML is on, pull the codes and see what its trying to tell you. for instance, a duff temp sender will make the aux fan come on, make the mixture richer and bring on the EML

i dont have any pieces of wood handy, what else can i use?

cheers, 2 of mine are leaking but there is no play. i'll buy some and fit them. so does the OE bush stay in place but is just 'packed out' with the collars?

could you not have just bent the pedal up a bit?

what are these 'collars'? is this them? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-300ZX-Turbo-NA-C-Collar-Aluminum-Centipede-Subframe-Bush-Kit-/400252975488?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d30efb980 how do they work/fit?

if the subframe bushes are wrecked and its moving about, that will have an effect of the steering

the spring rates differ between front/rear and also front RH/LH sides, but i think the struts themselves are not 'sided'. http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/fa/024.gif but as above....why?

it's hard to tell without hearing what kind of whine. slipping all the aux belts off will eliminate them from the equation, but the fact that it gets worse with the clutch in would be harder. As said it might be the release/thrust bearing but normally that doesnt fade after a few mins and is always there as a grumble.

it might explain the low compression......but not the antifreeze which is clearly in that cylinder :no:

find a decent body shop with a jig and give them this info: http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=bf&dir=&config=&refresh=&slide=42&cycle=off&scale=0&design=default&total=46 the car cant be too old. maybe too old to get settings out his book. but page 42 onwards will provide all the info needed.

yes that is the case. but the alignment compensates for the inaccuracies of the chassis. the steering centre line doesnt have to be bang on the chassis centre, but as long as its tracked and toed correctly it will drive straight and wont pull.

i dont understand how it was successfully aligned before, and it still pulls when its straight. if the wheels are straight and aligned properly the car should run true, regardless of the condition of the chassis.