fraser_gtti

the diagnostic is in the manual. Also, when did this start? just suddenly or after some maintenance?

check rack retainer adjustment http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/st/006.gif check the steering angle sensor ( column + wheel are aligned properly and no faults with sensor) check the end stop adjustment on the rear rack.

have they done the alignment properly with the HICAS centralised?

ye just junk it and block up the ports on the plenum and on the Solenoid vac signal. ECU doesnt care as long as it measures a voltage across the solenoid coil. It has no idea whether the EGR is actually working or not. I run a MINES ECU and blanked EGR with no issues.

try phoning Darren? http://www.axiswheels.com/about-us

people are right to not to consider it, professionals would be even less likely to especially a wheel where there is an obvious safety implication. if they are proper split rims, phone round and try and get a replacement. A decent manufacturer will supply parts and be interested to know why this wheel failed trace down the casting batch and find a root-cause to protect their name.

connector locations http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/br/040.gif

fronts are the same method of change out as the rears see here: Loccation http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/br/028.gif air-gap http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/br/036.gif sensor resistance range and self diagnosis using ABS control unit LED to identify wheel sensor fault http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/br/037.gif cheers,

car has been sat mothballed for that time and done 0 miles since i rebuilt both heads and fitted new belt about 7 years ago. only just dragged it out to stick on the road again. im not going to change the belt, but i will inspect it to check its not cracked or crazed. FPR relay is the fuel pump relay, its in the engine bay fuse box. you can use any method to inhibit the engine starting while you get some pre-lube splashing about and make sure you can get pressure before you fire it up. Doesnt have to be the FPR. If rust has built up the damage is already done anyway. if you are changing the seals purely as an age issue, i wouldnt bother unless they are leaking.

mine has sat for 7 years, ive started it up 3 times in that period with no issues other than the injector connectors corroding, so i snipped them off and fitted new ones. crank it over with a spanner if you're worried, if its fine then just hook up a battery and turn it over with the FPR pulled. check the oil light goes out, stick the FPR relay back in and fire it up.

sounds perfectly reasonable. If i can find the old halogen lamps il swap them out and ask the tester on the day, chances are il just stick it through with HIDs. cheers,

on the subject of HIDs, are these MOT compliant if they have to been retrofitted to non HID lamps? i realise there are separate tests for modern HID cars which include self leveling and washer sprays, but do they apply in this case? just so that i know if i need to swap back to the old lamps or not before i stick it in for a test. cheers,

I fired up the old girl for the first time in about 3 years. a couple of issues to resolve before i stick it in for an MOT. The one i had completely forgotten about was the front power steering hose which is leaking. This is the hose with the spliced 'joint?' half way along which is under a foam shrowd. I think it comes from the discharge of the pump to the rack. first question - can i get one of these new/recon'd, and at what price? secondly- if i repair it myself and get a new hose made off using the existing end fittings by the guy who does my digger hoses, is this 'joint' section just a joint or is it a restrictor/NRV? it seems a very odd place to put a join, and what ever it is this is the point at which it leaks. can i just make it one continuous length of HP rubber hose? cheers,

ye that's right. ive still got that car too. i made the manifold for the Z32 turbo. it was insanely fast. pics... http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/Sillypiece/slideshow/GTti

Cheers folks, heres some old pics. car looks just the same, obviously lacks polish but i should get it back to its self soon. '91 TT Auto, MINES ECU, boost controller a few other bits and pieces, i can hardly remember. Stripped all the EGR and AIVs, pre-cats etc during the engine outage and replaced all the old water hoses.

... I joined in 2005 when i bought my TT Z32 at 19 years old. i ran it for 2 years, then took it off the road due to the head gasket going on one of the banks. I pulled the engine, replaced the gasket and never put it back on the road. Its been sat for about 5 years at the side of my workshop 'mothballed' due to lack of intrest and other ongoing projects and work that have consumed my life since. I never had the heart to sell it, one because it's a great car and for second they were worth hee-haw at the time and no one wanted to fix or fuel them. that aside, im now keen to drag her out and put it back on the road before winter. So im back! Cheers, Fraser

what is failing? the impellor, the bearings or the seals?

it did come from a car with turbo and injector upgrades and now you mention it, that could be what the tune is on the chip and kinda ties in with the markings. whoever did it made a tidy job of soldering the main board too!

hi folks, its been about 3 years since i was last on here. Moved on to other cars and bikes but never sold it. My Z32 has been parked up beside the house for a couple years now and ive been having a rummage through the spares ive collected. I came across a spare socketed turbo ECU i bought on ebay before i got my MINES. when i took the lid off it, its been socketed, but theres a 'sub board' between the EEPROM and the main board socket. The long, narrow chip has had the numbers 'sanded' off for some reason. ive never seen this before. all the others ive seen, the chip is plugged straight into the main boards socket. im wondering what it is about this chip that it needs an additional board. Also, can anyone identify whether its for an Auto or Manual car by the part number? Cheers.

theres obviously something not right, whether it be in safety boost or something... as Wozzer says, most zeds are exempt from the catalyser test due to the age. most zeds run pretty clean anyway so its probably better to fix it than cheat your way through the test.

fill the hole with areldite and redrill it to fit the self tapper

youl have to run decent octane fuel too

ive got one too, they kick ass at 15psi!

may not be a cause, but may be that theres a vacuum leak and the AAC is trying to 'gag in' to compensate for the extra air from the leak to try and control the idle. this may cause a lower reading. check all the vacuum hoses and the balance bar is down tight (an o-rings are sealing) may just be one bank thats leaking causing it to be rough. just my opinion. hope it helps

that pod looks cool as hell! :bow: might do mine when im home. :dance: