fraser_gtti

ye theres a long pipe that does from the pump to the rack that has a 1 1/2" splice section on it (i dunno why, its so random) youl only see it if you rip off the foam insulation. check there first until your 100% sure its the rack

yes it will probably fitm but there are LOADS of trims available for the T28. so youd need to check

more likely to be a dead temp sensor. because the resistance is at a value thats within the acceptable limits of the ECU, it wont issue a fault code. check the connector isnt corroded before you go jumping into swapping ecus etc...

are these those rip-off garrett things that are glued together? i would stick with a name you could trust, its not like its a simple job to rip them out and replace them when thew blow after a couple weeks

fraser_gtti, 19yo, Aberdeen, limited mileage, TPO, '91 Jap TT with mods declared, 2yrs NCB, no points. = £2700 presently: 22yo, same car, 4yrs NCB, £750 fully comp mods declared, no points

depends on your age, when i was 19 i paid £2700 now im 22 its £750

could be the sound deadening buring off the transmission tunnel where the turbos are, check all your heat sheilds are still intact

i had that problem with the connectors falling off the coil packs. hope its not serious

good luck with the micra! i have a simelar problem, in the sense that there are no aftermarket/tuning parts available. im running OE gaskets no ringing, engine internals are stock ( OE forged pistons and rods ;) ) i was running 26psi on the std IHI RHB5 turbo but it was in surge all the time, the intake temps were over 54deg C! so it was woefuly inefficient and i had to richen it out to 11.5:1 and retard the ign to about 10deg under load. now running about 35deg advance and intake temps are only a few degs above ambient. im currently building a nova 1.2 with throttle bodies and mad internals and a serioulsy high comp ratio! il put the throttle bodies on a 1600 GTE engine when ive got bored with the 1200. as the manifolds are pretty simelar.

you just do exactly that. its a 22mm socket or something, just stick it on a ratchet and turn the engine so you know its not seized. make sure you turn it over in the right direction (clockwise i think)

in fact, it makes sense you have those fault codes, as the ecu has detected a signal from the starter circuit that you have tried to crank the engine, but because the engine never turned over, it blames the CAS for not picking up the rotation, when in fact the engine wasnt turning anyway.

put a socket and ratchet on the crank pulley and at least see if the engine turns over then. and 12V wont electrocute you

no im going to make one out of mild steel and make it smarter, that was just a trial to see how well it was gonna work out. i dont do shiney bits, i care that it IS fast not looks fast ;)

im hoping for about 180-190 at the wheels which should crack the 200hp per litre mark :D ive got a 50% uprated pressure plate and the bloody thing slips at 4500RPM which saves the tyres but it sucks not getting the power down :( il do some mapping next time im home to tidy up the fuel map, then il take it to the dyno for a power run. should be a good laugh!

yes, a starter should never turn continuously for more than 10 secs without a rest. (and usually if a cars not going to start within 10secs of turning it probably will be too gassed up to start anyway) even less now probably as cars now seem to have motors the size of a windscreen wiper motor and are just geared down to get the torque out them.

cheers, i had it running a few months ago but had piston issues :D (see my other vids) it goes like crazy though, il get round to filming it on the road next time home.

he didnt roll it. the camera rolled as it ploughed over the kerb and into the grass. it was spinnging cos the grass was wet and the rear quarter was smashed

for those who remember this project i finally got round to videoing a short clip:

welcome!

that flowchart is for function checking the actual starter motor assembly. you would have to remove it to do those checks, but if you engine is turning its likely not that. as suggested, the battery could be flat, or some cells have shorted. after a few turns the voltage drops and the solenoid kicks out with a clunk. if the engine was fine when you turned it off, its unlikely something is terminally wrong with your car.

i think theres a fuse for the charging circuit as well (i forget now) might be worth checking if the excitor wire is still attached, sometimes these corrode and break off. or maybe youve broken a belt ;)

the light may stay on or may not go on at all. depends how the regulator/rectifier diode has died. you dont need a fancy pants tester. just use a multimeter. if you havnt got one, buy one, youl get more use out of it than a battery tester.

its just a pointless sound effect on an auto. on my GTti however, i sheared a few turbos by not fitting a dump valve when running 24psi

dont forget to phone the AA and get Road Relay, theyl pull you home if it breaks.

agreed totally!