fraser_gtti

i dont see what advantage removing the balance line would be. if both TBs are wide open the VE is going to be as good as its going to get anyway. unplugging the CAS will stop the ECU 'firing' both fuel and spark. if all plugs are removed there isnt a great need for this, you only need to spin the engine over on the starter for a 5 seconds or so anyway. so yes, you're doing it right.

that is NOT a good sign. this may sound stupid, but taste it. If its sweet - its coolant.

it sounds fine. there should be little or no pressure on the sump/crank case anyway.

cause smoke like what? i cant see anywhere on this post what quantities of smoke there was. being down 2 cylinders will be even less likely to make smoke due to the dilution of the remaining cylinders. 10:1 AFRs and richer do smoke, especially those with no cats. i agreed a compression test is a good idea. if one wasnt to hand, there are other things to check. im just saying its important not to jump to conclusions is all...

it's a potted unit so will be fine. connections will be more likely to corrode if they are covered in glycol/water. leave as is unless you get problems. disturbing it will probably cause more problems. i'd be more worried about the coolant levels being low and undetected - leading to a more serious failure.

i wouldnt go jumping to conclusions before you look at the basics. you know the coil pack is triggering as the strobe light was flashing - so it cant be the PTU most likely is a green corroded injector connector or the injector its self is stuck closed/blocked. this means that cylinder is effectively pumping fresh air down that back to the 02 sensor. the ECU doesnt know it's a dud cylinder so it takes the 02 reading (which is now grossly 'lean' when combined with the other 2 working cylinders) and adds fuel to that bank - making the remaining 2 cylinders rich and causing the smoke. if you have a compression tester to hand - great, do it anyway for piece of mind. just remember to have the throttle 100% open when you do it. cheers,

that's possible as that pod has always been a bit loose. The car has been damp/stale being sat outside for so long so it could be corrosion on the switch contacts. I will check at the weekend when im home again. it is possible there are two symultaneous failures, ie- 2 blown lamps, or one lamp and an earth fault. if the 'pilot' is in fact the tell-tale on the dash cluster then there is no reason the 2 faults should be connected unless the earth for the dash and hazard switch lamp commons up and goes to the same ground point. I didnt have long to check at the weekend. it was just something i noticed as i checked all the lights worked. all the indicators and hazards work properly. does anyone know if this is an MOT fail? i thought the hazard switch light was? cheers,

didnt post well, see link below for better diagram http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/diag/003.gif

on this diagram here, can anyone confirm if 'pilot' is the dash lamp indicator lamp in question? it seems strange both this and the hazard warning switch lamp is faulty considering they are fed from separate units. cheers

i dragged my Z32 out yesterday to get it ready for an MOT next week. After 7 years of sitting, it looks like it just needed new wiper blades and the brakes cleaning up - calipers exercising and some bedding in and a new battery. Adjusted handbrake too. Ive power washed all the green and moss off it which made a difference. the only thing i can see 'wrong' is the indicator repeater on the dash cluster doesnt work, neither does the red light on the 4-way flasher switch. Indicators all work fine apart from that. im assuming theres something common between both the faults. does anyone have any ideas what it could be? dash bulbs are both fine. the dash repeater doesnt flash when i arm/disarm the alarm either (it used to) is this a fail? im sure the 4-way one is. cheers,

if it's only happening over a certain speed, its almost certainly HICAS/steering angle related. things to check or try http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=st&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=65&design=default&total=98 http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=st&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=73&design=default&total=98 http://www.300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=st&dir=&config=&refresh=&slide=80&cycle=off&scale=0&design=default&total=98

mine did this when i first got it. i eventually found both re-circ valves plugged (probably to stop the goose-honk) if you accellerated hard and lifted off, the air would stall in the MAF and it would cut out. once they were connected back up it never did it again. check both your dump/re-circ valves arent either plugged off or jammed/corroded shut.

inconclusive, you would need to watch it with a scope to see if its triggering each coil.

does that mean its any good? it's got '440s' scribbled in pencil on the casing. would that be 440cc injectors perhaps?

do they look like this? http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?155484-ECU-identification

i dont understand. who isnt interested? you or the garage?

without hearing it or knowing how bad it is its pretty difficult, but here's a few things to try: clean both TBs, if you have a BOV to atmosphere, check it isnt jammed open. adjust both throttle bodies to ensure they are sync'd check all vac hoses and manifold leaks (easiest way is to inspect all hoses and do a boost leak check) check the EGR isnt jammed open. check each plug with a strobe light so you can identify if its spark drop-out and on which cylinder - might be a dodgy fet on the PTU. do a power drop check with a consult - or pull each coil pack plug to identify the worst cylinder. check all live values on the consult to make sure all sensors are reading sensible values and there are no hidden faults.

can you not disassemble a wheel and use the hub section. its likely they are standard, and the rim sections are what determines the width.

yes, there is only one pump. as said, the steering will be heavy but it will be driveable enough to know whether its pulling to one side or not.

a guy i knew had an issue with car pulling to one side years ago. i looked at his car for him and was puzzled, then as i was putting the wheels back on, i realiesd he had a 195/50/15 on one side and a 195/45/15 on the other. lol

i wouldnt recommend doing that. not only do you risk damaging the HP hoses, you may 'trap' pressure on on side which would compound the problem or fail to shut the pipe off completely giving an unconclusive test. disconnect the HICAS unit or solenoids electrically - which is by far the easiest and most sensible solution if it still pulls, whip off th PAS belt and drive it. sure the steering will be a bit heavier, but at least that way you can be sure there is no hydraulic pressure acting on the HICAS rack.

ye sorry i didnt understand. whatever way you choose to disable it is fine. as long as it's de energised (assuming the shuttle in the solenoid isnt physically jammed or passing) the HICAS rack should default to its centre under spring tension. if you run through the HICAS diagnostic procedure, im sure one of the steps checks that the steering angle sensor is centered, but i would need to read the manual to check. it may just be a check to ensure it registers a signal off the straight position. if the column or wheel have been off at some point, or if it's been tracked with out the rack and wheel being centred then it's a possibility.

eh?

its a decent system providing its operated properly, yes if we consider the car is alighned properly and 'straight' then the care should run true, there must be somehting happening when the car is moving which makes me think the angle sensor is out and its energising the HICAS solenoid even when the car is 'straight' it would be an interesting test if it still did it with the HICAS solenoids unplugged. also check for broken springs if you havent already done so, and worn balljoints. it wouldnt be the first time ive watched someone align a car with the balljoints flapping about in the wind!

you say 'tracked' but was it aligned? tracking can just be toe settings either front/rear or both. you need 4-wheel alignment