fraser_gtti

can someone send me a new eprom for TT jap Auto also would be nice to get my hands on a spare ecu in case i fook it up. ive got a socket i just need to strip it and solder it. but would prefer to do it out the car and just swap the ECU's any offers?? cheers

ha ha. i think ur nuts safe dude. i had a feeling it was tested anyways

Magic! thanks it was pic 'D' i thought the light had to come out for but i might be able to squeeze ma hand in some how. i dont think this bumper was designed to come off but some one managed to get it on! cheers

that wasnt the answer i was looking for. ha ha the indicators work but the forways dont. god knows why. its gonna be a nightmare fault finding excercise! would like to know for sure tho

do the 4-way flashers have to work for an mot?

cool, is there anywhere i can find the instructions or pics so i have i fair idea before i get home?

ive got an AB-Flugg fron bumper and need to get it off to repair it and replace the intercooler. i just had a quick look before i came offshore. but there seems to be bolts behind the lights.it looks a right pain in the arse but surely it cant be that bad. is the process of removal simelar to that of the std bumper?? any help is much appreciated Fraser

im paying £2700 TPFT for my jap TT with mods im 21 now with 3yrs NCB, Z as a second car

it is up here anyway :rofl:

thanks for that, i managed to grab a copy in WH Smith. it looks no bad you cant see the cracks in my bumper. scotty and firefox's cars look braw too! nice one! Fraser

cool, where the hell do you get that mag i havnt ever seen it in the shops

also try parking the car so that the front is higher than the back, that way it saves the air getting locked in the back of the engine.

yup, if your recircs are blanked off it stalls like a bitch everytime you boot it and lift off, the air stalls in the MAF and it assumes there is no air flow so cuts the fuel. my standard Charade GTti has a lovely ch ch ch ch ch on the lift off, as it doesnt have a dump valve fitted as standard. but as the RHB5 is only a tiny turbo the inertia would be less in the shaft so less likely to shear or shatter than the Z's. Fraser

i over took you. nice motor, who are ye? Fraser

how does the NRV prevent the problem described? all the nrv does is stops the boost pressure acting on the diaphragm and stops the air getting in after the engine is turned off.

Yes, the clutch and brake servo's both take a vacuum from the manifold, if the clutch servo is leaking then the vacuum will be less in the brake booster and make the brakes feel crap. thats why the pipe would have been removed and plugged. Fraser

could be a worn susspension bush somewhere then? under the load of the overrun its causing the play in the bush to change the angle of the wheel? Fraser

have the rear end tracked to the front, and ( i know this sounds silly) but the correct profile of tyre is on both sides and they are both the same

i would assume its because the space save is a different diameter fom the wheel on the other side, and with having an LSD on the rear it will be constantly trying to turn under acceleration, because the diff isnt allowing the two wheels to travel at their own speeds without a certain amount of resistance. it must be knocking hell out the friction plates and the oil in the LSD cos itl be constantly slipping, even on a straight! Fraser

well fook knows what was up with mine that day then Fraser

well if it resets each time the engine starts why is this necessary? :confused: like i said, what i did worked, reset the code and got it out of safety boost,it wouldnt reset no matter how many times i stopped and started or turned on and off the ignition. the way i think it works is: the code is found, and is kept as a fault, and then to identify how long ago the code occurred, it tells you it happened 'XX' starts ago. if it reset each time then it would always happen "1" start ago and would never change. since i cured my fault it kept it as a fault. and the start counter would be the only thing changing. until i entered diag mode and came out of it Fraser

ok then, but thats what thru me for ages, i had bypassed it but the code remained, couldnt work it out, i assumed it would clear its self but it never did, until i checked the codes and exited diag mode properly rather than just turning the key on and off. Fraser

no it doesnt. safety boost resets each time you turn off the ignition and re-start (in the case of genuine detting with a working det sensor) the fault code however must be cleared even after repairing or bypassing it. you can do this with the consult or by entering exiting diagnostic mode by using the pots on the side of the ecu or by shorting the pins on the consult connector (same thing) Fraser

well if you bypass it its about 10p for about 20 resistors, or if you want i a genuine det sensor and harness its about £120 i think, but check with the traders on here. Fraser

HUGELY!! it puts it constantly in safety boost, retarded ignition, ultra rich maps and very low boost. either replace the sensor and harnes or bypass the det sensor with a 1M ohm Resistor reset the ecu and job done BTW i dont reccommend bypassing the det sensor if you have ANY mods other than standard. some will argue, but i have ran with mine bypassed on a standard car for a year almost and had no problems Fraser