Stephen

Not had an easy life this one, glad it’s in the right hands.

Should be printed on the rear face of the wheel, usually on the spoke. Also worth thinking about your geometry. My HICAS is long gone and the kit I have reduces this issue.

That’s a tyre size you need to know the wheel size including the offset. Either of the first two options could work with the spacer more likely.

Right, I’ve got a late spec NA long block split and ready for a clean and rebuild sat here. I was keeping it for myself to rebuild as a fully forged TT as it’s a perfect candidate, but it’s not going to happen any time soon and to be honest I want to free up the space so I’m going to sell it. I will start a proper listing with pictures etc but I wanted to gauge interest on the format of its sale, ie either to sell as a long block or short block and heads separated etc. What’s here; A late spec VG30DE short block, this has the NA oil squirters you’d want for forged pistons and is set up to hold the turbo oil lines etc. The bores are clean with the OEM honing still visible. The rods, pistons, crank etc are all separated. The crank and rods are packaged up safely and are available, TT and NA cranks are the same but the rods have smaller wrist pins being from an NA. I would expect these to be replaced in any event. The heads are the later 10Y ones, this means they come with the later cams (all NAs cane with TT manual style cams) and the late style plenum, no adaptation kit required for your bigger injectors just a late style fuel rail (not included). These are the NA version of the heralded 40P ones. So lacing in some TT exhaust valves and you’ve got some great heads. As they stand the cams are pulled as are the lifters, all packed up nicely. This isn’t the usual boat anchor that’s been sat behind the shed, it’s been split packaged and tucked away. Obviously it’s HEAVY, I’d be perfectly happy for it to sell as a complete lot or split into two. Is this of any interest to anyone? I’m not looking for strong money but the heads alone are worth a couple of quid... Within reason I’d be prepared to deliver it to anywhere in Southern England or Wales but my costs would need to be covered.

Cheers guys.

Don’t laugh but I have toyed with selling my complete running road legal 2+2 one and buying a slicktop as a project. ?

I think with the recent price rises and the current situation many are looking at a pile of cash and thinking now would be a good time to liquidate it. It’s no secret that I’ve toyed with selling mine, using part of the money to buy something else and liquidate the other portion. Trouble is there’s nothing else I want more that fills that criteria and will fit in my garage comfortably.

The front grill of the X7 is so big I feel like it’s going to suck you up.

I wonder how this will play out, after all the Euro market for Nissan is poor. Something like less than 5% of their global sales are to the EU and the U.K. is the largest consumer. About 30K nissans were purchased in the U.K., comparatively Germany and France less than 10k each. With the trade deal between the U.K. and Japan it’s possible that situation may change over the coming years. Who knows, if it looks like that though it will be globally rare because it’s a munter and a rehash of an already old and dated car.

Is it me or have they recycled the front end of the early 350z prototype. From the back and the profile it’s a pretty car but that front end is the dogs.

Expect you boys are getting a kicking a the moment? I went back last month, nervous times.

What’s 24 hours, we’ve lost 4 months or more of this year...

On the HICAS Solenoid, the big chunk in front of the Power Steering pot, there are some Hydraulic take offs. The larger one is the same size as the ones on the pump. See the second picture in the link; https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-300zx-tt-hicas-elimination-kit-p-1847.html

My car was originally Auto, so the factory spaghetti of lines for the clutch booster isn’t there. However with an uprated clutch it was just way too heavy without, I mean you can cope fine but get in traffic and your fed up. I plumbed the booster up using a manual balance bar and a dedicated line, this has a bit of a loop and a non return valve, straight to the booster. It’s my opinion that you don’t want to conjoin your brake and clutch booster lines.

Fingers crossed they got it wrong then. ?

Well, that’s a bit disappointing. Backs quite nice but the front looks cheap, looks like a Hyundai or something. Actually it looks like one of those Chinese copies, of a 350z.

Is this not on real TV or even major subscription services? You’ve gotta pay for the motor trend app to watch?

The short answer is probably yes. But you’d have to know what was written into the map. From what I understand the deceleration is a different map. Something like, when a closed throttle signal is seen it retards timing and fuelling. So it’s probably been mapped to do what your describing. Mine doesn’t, it’s rather uneventful on the decel.

Best of luck, it’s good to see it still kicking about. Some of these cars refuse to die.

Did this one belong to Baz at one point. I very seriously considered purchasing that car myself some 5-7 years back.

Are you sure it’s the pump? I’m sure your aware but there’s an actuator in the rack that applies resistance based on an ECU signal, this is speed based. If there is a fault with this system, the steering goes intermittently heavy. Typically if your Speedo dies it will do this, it’s bloody annoying.

That’s a good insight. It’s of no material reflection in a normal 300zx really, those cars a really a thing in their own right, automotive history. It does however help Instate a heritage and pedigree to the model that is absent really with Japanese cars, particularly these ones. It’s good news.

Should go £100k+.

But you typically wouldn’t run a bead of weld, it would be stitches. You wouldn’t want that much heat going into the metal, particularly on the outer skin. So whilst it will in finality be “a continuous weld” it will be made of dozens of tacks and stitches. The bottom seam is from factory merely spot welded iirc.

Why not learn to mig weld. Your only going to be tack welding really, then grinding back the top skin and smoothing it in. It’s unlikely structural really. You can do it.