Stephen

After a bit of faff about with the battery which was a Covid victim we got to the MOT station. Happy to report a pass. The guy was pretty intense on it and I picked up some minors. He was fair though and I will get those little bits ticked off. Having not driven it for over a year, not hitting full boost as it is wasn’t warmed up it felt rocketship fast.

That’s not a Z32 300zx engine then.

To expand Richards example, let’s say he took the scenic route along the coast. You’d be out of electric by the time you got to my place, good luck finding a charge point, there are some but not many... and the further west you go the greater that issue becomes. I have a rule, I don’t go to Cornwall without enough fuel to get back the idea of doing that as a day trip with an EV is laughable.

So after a very long, dry, safe and cosy sleep since the beginning of this global pandemic she’s waiting for an MOT.

You maybe be able to find some later style ones, as fitted to Skylines. They require an adapter kit but then you’ll need that for your 740s. Ive a set in my garage that I meant to fit but in honesty probably won’t get round to.

Very, very few manual turbo cars seem to be coming about. In road worthy condition you’ve gotta be talking £7k now. In presentable condition/clean 15k. Then a good quality/show car upto 30k. Im carefully watching the market and getting a little uncomfortable...

Dual 3” exhaust system, concerned about road noise from tyres... :lol:

There’s no easy way to do it. You may find access easier by removing the coolant lines but whatever you do it’s a knuckle splitting bad day out.

Didn’t UKs come with 28s, someone may have done an “upgrade”.

Take your word for it Nick, mine had the early (being an 89) hydraulic system.

Personally I felt it felt like an old leaf sprung car, how the body weight shifts over the spring on the horizontal before the back goes out. Very disconcerting.

Do you like how the HICAS system feels/drives? The reason why so many deleted this system, not just from the Z32 but the R chassis models it was also fitted to, it wasn’t about drifting.

Why don’t you just redrill the bolt hole.

G13

I’ve actually removed my HIDs, for the amount of time I drive the thing and the even lower amount of time that that is at a time where head lights are required I can’t be bothered with the are they aren’t they road legal nonsense.

Shouldn’t have any issues with it starting in the cold. Gary lots of NI plates in the rest of the U.K., often referred to as “dateless” plates. Put it on Range Rover and your neighbour won’t know it’s 10 years old, if that sort of thing appeals to your insecurities ?

I don’t work on white goods for a living but it’s not too far out my day job. I’ve fixed a few things over the years as they break at home. I always find myself taking them apart and thinking they’re badly designed. When the utility room fridge (kept bait and bulk stuff in it) went pop on the breaker one evening I isolated it and had a look. It turned out that the condenser has a drip tray on top that the condensation leaks onto, the idea being the heat of it evaporates the water. Now condensate is corrosive and the evaporation dish is steel, you can now guess why it had tripped out. I assumed this crap design was, you know an anomaly and that other companies do it better, nope. Mental really and obviously it’s located somewhere you wouldn’t/couldn’t look without pulling the damn thing out. White goods suck. Clearly with the issues above better design regs are required. Most of them mix water and electrics.

It’s probably just the Berroca Tony.

Agreed. There’s elements of it I like, I don’t think the piss yellow colour helps.

The wheels are on wrong.

At the end of the day it’s about getting it clean, tidy and corrosion resistant. Few brush strokes are preferable to rust, a utilitarian job.

My Stillen ones had the same level of corrosion. I wire wheeled them and chassis black. Keep meaning to pop them off and get them powder coated.

If the biting point of the clutch is very low then adjust it. No one wants the biting point down there. You shouldn’t have any issues with the absence of the Vacuum tanks, some people have reported it shortens the life of the clutch booster... seen no evidence of this though, mines been this way for five years, probably longer and has done a few thousand miles that way without issue. As have a number of peoples I know. The soft brake peddle is unlikely to be to do with the recent changes unless something has been done in error to the vacuum assist of the brake booster.

10mm spacers are a problem. As slip ons. They’re too thick for the stock wheel studs, replacement extended rear wheel studs (which are different to the front) are a pain to find. No one makes proper hubcentric with the studs in the spacer in 10mm, in fact quite a few companies don’t make 15s. If the wheel only started fouling the arms after lowering the car then it’s almost certainly a geometry issue. Everything changes when you lower a car and the more you lower it the more thus becomes problematic. I wouldn’t be surprised if the car is now toe out at the rear.

Video of the car by Hoonigan.