Stephen

Sorry to dig this up, ive been thinking about doing mine, get rid of that annoying hop at the top of the gear, why do you need the spacer sorry? if you don't fit it does it drag the back end down 10mm?

no I decided il have to produce something custom unfortunately as car.mad cant be bothered :P

basically yeah, you just create a loop.

ive got high temp paint on my plenum no problems so far.

I had my suspicions lol.

why don't you just rll the arch and pop out the lip a touch then they will fit properly, its the offset that's causing you problems not the ride height.

lol that's beyond brave, id be worried it would pop off at a hint of a corner lol, not to mention at only 165 wide im surprised you ever have traction

all the better lol

cant you over do it and crack it because of the localised heat?

Me either except my side one i.e the filling nut had been chewed by people doing this over the years, as its not quite the same size. so I couldn't get the bugger out, plus the fact that getting the ratchet up there was a pita.

You will need the sump plug tool I have one you can borrow, from when I did mi if you usea socket you eont get the sam ws grip and ul **** the olug.ne.

Mine does this too, apprantly its down to the wrong grade gearbox oil.

Yeah ive got the full kh apspeed system from the turbo right back.

uk car were only available in a lwb or 2+2 format with twin turbo engines, no shorties, no swbs, no slick tops or convertibles, they are all imports. if its uk which it is then its a 2+2 twinturbo

yes I did, but it has been said i have psychic spanner powers and can will a spanner into doing just about anything. jokes aside, the top two are a bit of a pita, the bottom are piss easy, the heat shield may cause you issues but you can "convince" them off easy. just make sure you flood them with plently of wd40 before you start and go carefull, snapping a spud would be disastrous. I cant remember which way round it is but two are captive studs with a nut that winds on 12mm I think and the other have bolts that go into the turbo housing. when refitting you will probably find you have to do the top ones up by hand first to get enough clearance as they foul on the downpipe if you try to do it in the reverse order.

the heater thing is normal I believe with series one climate control, it blows hot air over the windscreen first. then eventually once its satisfied it will blow it out the vents, you cannot pic and choose where it blows air, that's why people switch to the later climate control modules. but as rolands said you don't need a cd player its a car not a stereo.

this is the one im on about... I posted a it a few weeks back with a vid :) that's the only pic I could find right now but theres loads more round the internet.

Theres a v8biturbo one I like il post it later. Oldschool looks new school drivetrain and powerplant for the win :)

You wont be able to pm me mate, as my subs ran out. Il pay up soon as this month pay check hits the floor, have you got my mobile number? or Il get the info off hellraiser and sort it that way.

Speak to hellraiser he has an adaptor bracket you will need, he will probably sell it to you.

Sounds like leaky rockers too me, however if you havent done many miles since your hicas leak was fixed thereis still going to be loads of atf to burn ogf on the exhaust etc.

T25 is the stock item, you will have to replace with a match obviously. Prices for a rebuild are around £ 3/400 a side, or you can rebuild them yourself

yes definatly bleed the system out, jack the front end up, and rock the wheels from lock to lock slowly with the cap off and the strainer out, if air bubbles come up as you turn its got an air lock. speed it up, if you go too fast to soon it will spill over, keep topping up then once it stops bubbling turn the engine on and repeat. as far as rebuilding the pump is concerned its a piece of piss, cheaper than buying new but not cheaper than a second hand one.

il be paying up when the pay check hits the bank :)

Have a look down the back of the block, to the right of the master cylinder, they run from here to two uprights that turn through 90 degrees and go into the centre of the back of the block. You will see two 20mm ish diameter hoses, running from the back of the block through the firewall, that's them..... just connect one to the other and your bypassed. In regards to the manual conversion, getting that damn peddle box in is the hardest part, you may find it easier to pop out the clocks to allow you to push/pull the cables about to move it into place, im sure ian will sort that out in that respect.