turbocraigy

Doh!

I am, I do, it is and it has!:x:

Impressive spec, but aftermarket spec doesn't always add to the value of a car. Overall condition is more important. Assuming its ultra tidy I would say £4-5k, don't expect a fast sale at that though. Don't be another one that sells too cheap, be patient - assuming its a very good example someone will be prepared to pay for it. Good luck!:)

I'm surprised, but I like it on your car - suits your car colour and body kit.

Liking the front & back pics:) Yes I would change the mains to Xenon white though.

I have been running the standard mods if you like for over 2 years...Not 1 problem to date. (now running wildly round the house touching wood!):headvswal

Can you hear the fuel pump prime when you put the ignition on? - You should. If not check the fuse first and take it from there.

Short & sweet that was! :D Stunning pace, very quick car, epic performance, monumental cheap skate alternative!:duffer: Liking that. Bet the coming Top gear feature isn't so kind.:(

What he said:)

I'll be honest, they all look a bit rough. Be very careful as there is no such thing as a cheap Zed. Buy a bad one and it'll cost you dear. Best to try and buy a really good one, look in the for sale section here. Forum members cars are more likely to be better looked after and cherished. If you're after a project - fair enough. And why is it that some people can't even be bothered to give their cars a good clean out and tidy before taking pictures for a sale ad? Puts me straight off.

Low speed vibration that is felt through the seat is generally the center prop bearing. This is the common cause. Another possible cause, though less likely is a worn gearbox mount. Would bet on the prop bearing - check this first. The steering wheel vibration - could be warped discs - common as Zeds eat discs! And the other common cause is the front tension rod bushes. If it wobbles hard under braking then the discs I think are the likely problem. FYI, I had both your problems when I first got my car. Low speed vibration thru butt - was my prop bearing - changed it problem solved. Steering wheel wobble, most noticable during braking - was my discs - quick easy change, problem solved. I can't help with your running problem, not experienced enough.

Could be anything, its not come from the screen wash bottle has it? Was you using the air con - if you have it - maybe the condensation draining... Its probably just as above though, water can sit in a spot and only drain at certain angles. If you get it again, check the water on the ground to try and determine if it seems like plain water or coolant etc.

This must be taken into account when setting base idle and timing. You can earth pin 47 at the main ECU when doing this....that is all the neutral switch does. Or use consult/datascan to retard timing by 10degrees to set base idle.

Deffo not stock 6x4's - aftermarket jobbies. Personally I think you may be barking up the wrong tree. You can not expect over much from 6x4's, they struggle to give any real depth or volume, most end up with some sort of sub-woofer in the boot. The shape of the 300zx and the boot if you like is just not designed with acoustics in mind! I find my car hard to get a decent sound from its music system - I have a new head unit, 4 new good speakers and a powered sub-woofer.

All 4 rear lights on the centre panel are for the reversing lights, but what happens with a lot of import cars is that 2 of them on one side are used as Fog lights. Yours is a UK TT so should have fog lights fitted in the rear bumper, unless it has been changed. In fact I know it looks like there are 4 lights in the centre panel, but there are actually only 2 bulbs, I bet one of your reversing bulbs is out that's all. As for the fronts, there are 4 bulbs, 2 for high beam, 2 for dipped. I'm not sure what happens with the UK spec car. Is it not just one of the main beam bulbs that's out? I don't know if the dipped beam is supposed to stay on with high beam. What happens with the front right? Check the bulbs and failing that fuses. I believe strange things can happen with the lights is a fuse is out...might also explain why the washer motor is not working if it shares a fuse.

Just read the advert....very well written. Looks to me like an excellent example well worth £4500-5k:) Looks to be in a very similar condition/state to my Zed, which I would not let go for any less than that no matter how long it would take. If its worth it - its worth it. Seems to me that some members on here (this is not a dig BTW), under value our cars, selling good ones for bugger all like £1200-£1500. I know they are old now, but they are not rusty old Novas/fiestas/escorts etc. There is very little to touch them in the price region of £5k when you factor the looks, performance and equipment levels. And the attention they draw. I know Ebay specials don't help:xxx:, but if we as 300zx enthusiasts don't value them correctly then nobody else will:(. If you have a good one and want to sell it, wait for somebody that wants a good one and let them pay well for it. If we all do this then the value of these cars should start to creep back to a respectable figure:D. I know they will never make us rich, but stop selling them for peanuts!! These cars, specifically well looked after standard and tastefully modded ones are special - remember this. They are not just any old car. In time (years), I feel that some of us my look at various car ads and kick ourselves - they will at some point start to gain value and be worth some.

I use Millers semi synth 10w 40....with no problems. Not cheap, but not mega expensive either as it gets changed frequently. I think that there is a lot of hype surrounding oil, not suggesting you buy cheap crap from Asda, but a reasonable brand 10w40 semi synth will be spot on.... I refuse to spend £40/50 on 5litres of 'super' oil just for me to drop it 5000miles later. If I intended the oil to do say 15000-20000miles then maybe. Believe what you will:) FYI Zedworld used Magnatec 10w40 semi synth on my car when I had it serviced a couple of years ago, don't know what they use now though, but at the time it was suggested this type and spec of oil was spot on.

Good job all round I think. Really pleased every ones happy. Got a well sorted car there, well done:)

Cruise control has a limit of 70mph on the imported cars, unless the speedo has been converted with a MPH 2 KPH box at the back of the unit in which case the limit for cruise control is raised. I have a Jap import with UK clocks and the cruise control is limited to 70mph. TBH sounds like yours doesn't work. Try activating it at say 50mph using the set button with your foot under the brake pedal pulling it firmly towards you. If it works then the switch at the back of the pedal needs adjusting as it will be making or actually breaking the circuit at normal pedal rest position stopping the cruise from activating. When I bought my car the cruise control wasn't working and it was this switch, but my switch was simply broken....I bridged it out to confirm and cruise worked! You might try this, but don't leave it bridged.

This method is not the relocation, but just a bypass.

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=115794 Also... http://www.angelfire.com/geek/vg30dett/DSR/DetSenRel01.html I have done this modification since my original det sensor failed. Obviously if you are working on the engine and can get access enough to change the original one then do so. I have had no problems to date with this method. HTH:)

I don't know if its worth £2500. A Tatty UK Zed? I would think at the minute you could buy a nicer example for that price. Depends on how important the LPG part is to you. For me it wouldn't make the slightest difference as I didn't buy it to be economical. It might even put me off because you never know if the job has been done really well. Check it out really well, because the UK Zed can have a lot of hidden rot, I know an import can too, but it is much less likely. See some of the repairs threads on this site for examples. I personally would look for a good fresh as possible import.

Too true, but the 300zx NA auto is going to be less of a handful than those manic Supra TT's! Just out of interest, have you been in a 300zx? Why the change over, I mean you could get a NA auto Supra. Not trying to put you off, obviously I am a ZX man, just wondering:)

Interesting. I suppose if the timing is/was out that might cause the car to run lean and hence trip the detonation sensor and if you had some air leaks could also have the same effect. Other wise you may have a det.sensor on the way out or a faulty wiring loom to it - if this is the case (which is quite common) it may trip out to safety mode again. If it is one of the latter, the solution is to bypass the sensor or relocate it with a good used one or replace with new in original position. The last option is very expensive, the first option is not recommended. Re: the cam belt change, if you have no history or idea of when it was last done, then this is always good practice. Your springs & shocks - springs are either broken or not and you should be able to see this. In any event changing the whole lot as discussed earlier is a good idea if you really like the car and want to keep it (obviously money depending). My car feels much more 'alive', positive and fresh since changing all mine. Regarding the 'chipping', IMO your money would be far better spent in other areas. The gains from chipping a NA car are much less than chipping a Turbo car. You are likely to see 5-10% max. You might have a performance exhaust, but it is NOT necessary, your car will be fine. If you want the little extra - fair play, but don't expect to be blown away with the results. Maybe this is something to look at once your car is running/driving spot on. Regarding the spark plugs, I read some where that the iridium plugs were not very good with the Zed. I think Jeff (Zedworld) stated this some where. HTH:)

Got to be careful how far you go as it might become to unforgiving for normal road use, unless you like that type of ride - some do.