Just wondering what is the best way to go to get a SWB 300tt handling better suspension wise? My thoughts from what I have found on the forum are:

 

Hicas removal

Rear camber arms

Front camber arms

Coil overs

Uprated anti roll bars

Front strut brace

 

What about rear upper traction arms?, front adjustable tension rods? rear strut brace?

 

Anything else to add?

Got to be careful how far you go as it might become to unforgiving for normal road use, unless you like that type of ride - some do.

I actually prefer a firm ride, as long as it doesn't skip across the road. From this set up I can loose the weight/complication of the hicas, set the ride quality/height how I like it and be able to adjust the camber for grip etc will I not?

 

I'm not really 100% sure of the set up on the 300, but from what I found using the search function, this would give me the ride/handling options I'm after and be able to adjust pretty much everything?

All good so far. The next step would be replacing the bushes that are left after fitting the adjustable arms, with polyurethane bushes.

 

Subframe spacers help reduce subframe movement in the rear which reduces wheel hop on acceleration.

 

Polyurethane steering Rack bushes help give more response and feel to the steering.

 

A Rear strut brace makes a more noticable difference than the front strut brace.

 

Tyre and Suspension geometry choice makes one of the biggest differences. The stock geometry can be improved with some more negative camber and a little extra castor and parallel toe. A decent race alignment garage will be able to improve on the stock alignment setup.

Edited July 2, 200917 yr by Yowser

So add:

 

Polyurethane bushes in the rear

Polyurethane bushes in the steering rack

Alignment (obviously)

 

to:

 

Hicas removal

Rear camber arms

Front camber arms

Coil overs

Uprated anti roll bars

REAR strut brace

 

What's this about "Subframe spacers"? i get the principle, but more info to help my understanding would be cool :)

 

As you may have guessed my head has a plan lol...........

The rear subframe is a floating system on gell filled rubbers.

 

However as these wear they start to allow excessive movement in the subframe. The spacers fit between the the stock rubbers and the mounting plates and stop the subframe play but still utilise the cushioning of the stock rubbers to eliminate vibration and noise.

Ah I get you, As I've never been under a 300 to see what's what (seen a few sketchy photos) wasn't sure what you meant but make perfect sense now, Cheers buddy!

Decent tyres, otherwise you wont be getting the best out of any of the mods. And a rare one that im going to be doing at some point, driver tuition, no offence and you might already be a racing driver, but i think thats got to be the 2 best handling mods money can buy.

Cheers

danny

I actually prefer a firm ride, as long as it doesn't skip across the road. From this set up I can loose the weight/complication of the hicas, set the ride quality/height how I like it and be able to adjust the camber for grip etc will I not?

 

I'm not really 100% sure of the set up on the 300, but from what I found using the search function, this would give me the ride/handling options I'm after and be able to adjust pretty much everything?

 

To avoid a SWB skipping about you need to be extremely careful with spring rates. Bolting on springs designed for a heavier 2+2 can worsen the handling.

Decent tires, defo, seems silly and i left them off the list as i thought it to be obvious, but thinking about how many cars I've seen with £k's spent on them and then the cheapest "ditch finder" tyres is quite a few.

 

I'm no race driver, done a few track days, and had a little bit of tuition and you're right, it's amazing how much you can learn from it.

 

As for spring rates, thats something i did forget, the SWB is about 200kg's lighter? plus i'll be lightening it a bit more (nothing too drastic though) so thats something to add to the list :D