turbocraigy

Is it easy to change this column bush with the engine still in, whats involved for this job?

Not usually my thing, but I like it!

The fronts would need approximately 20mm spacer to make flush with the arch, although they could rub being lowered, so maybe try 15mm first. The rears are going to stick out by nearly an inch (over 20mm)....

Just an update on this one. Took the car out again for a blast, within 10minutes it just out completely. No messing - just like switching it off. Swapped the PTU at the road side (very easy to do) started straight up - Problem solved.:) A quick thanks to Mike Bean for lending me a good PTU to confirm the problem and see me through until I get a new 2nd generation unit.:bow: On a different note, spent a couple of hours with Mike Bean yesterday while he was on with CraigyTT's engine rebuild - he certainly knows how to work on the Zed and would not hesitate to ask him if I needed a job doing.

Same as!

8.5" all round with 15mm spacers all round. Original offset ET38, with spacers effectively ET23, in terms of stance, rims are just about flush with the arches, absolutely no rubbing, but car not lowered.

Cheers!:) Changing it sure made a difference, hard braking much improved, but they still fade easily. Still room for improvement with bigger discs etc, but must make sure the basic components are all in good working order first. Can't believe I lived with it since I bought the car, the odd squeak it made was just as annoying as the poor braking.... My idle is smoother as well, but it was only a small leak. On a side note, changing the booster is possible without completely removing the master cylinder, I unbolted the master from the booster and eased it out of the way, unbolting the unit from under the dash is back breaking, but do-able without removing any trim.... Like I said, a good improvement, well worth checking, but still not to Ferrari standards.

No they do not all squeak.....if you get a squeak type noise under hard braking from the behind the dash it maybe the booster that has failed. I have had a leak on my booster for 2years, yes it did make the idle a little rough, but since I have changed it the squeak has gone. Jonny - test your booster as described above.... Obviously its not forced to be that, a squeak can come from the spring/s and linkages.

Do the 330mm discs with standard calipers make a noticable difference mate?

My car didn't dett with 0.8mm tips, but when Rolling road tested the operator said I was running way too lean, guessing injectors had maxed out with that much boost..... Was very fast though and could feel the drop in power changing for a 1mm tip. Thought better than a rebuild though! Be careful!

No pics I'm afraid. Open the bonnet, looking at the engine top left side, brake booster is a black round tank type device that the master cylinder bolts to. The booster usually has ABS in a yellow label on it at the top. There will be a thick vacuum hose connected to it on the front flat face. Pull it off there and blow into the booster. You should go red faced and not be able to continuously blow more in. If you can, the diaphragm has failed and you may occasionally hear a squeaking noise from the brake pedal under hard braking. HTHs

Just out of interest, find out what size jets they fit. When mine was done at Zedworld, 0.8mm were fitted which gave a real good kick, but I changed them for 1mm tips as car was running lean with that much boost....

Yes - I'm sorry about that! LOL!

I have changed my brake booster today after suspecting it was leaking a little. My brakes have been overhauled recently, but they still seemed pretty crap TBH and I have read plenty on here about them been considered crap so thought that was that. I was lucky to get a spare brake booster with my manual conversion kit, so decided to whack it on (PITA, but DIYable!). Well there is definately a difference and now it is possible to lock the front wheels on a dry road and activate the ABS!!! They are a lot better and they are STOCK (fast road pads only). I would now describe them as good brakes as long as you don't cook them. Best of all, its really easy to check the booster.... For those that don't know, pull the vacuum hose off the booster, blow hard on the connection. You should go RED faced and not be able to blow anymore. I was able to blow, blow and blow into mine indicating the diaphragm has a very small hole in it and the air is passing through into the cabin. I checked my replacement was OK before fitting it. So, like I said, my brakes were just OK before, but crap TBH, not a pray of locking the fronts, really struggled in the wet! As soon as this was changed, went for a blast, ABS operating, some tyre squeal - bone dry roads! Much better. I always thought Nissan would not have produce a 300bhp car with such poor brakes and I wonder how many other duff boosters are currently in service. Still considering larger discs, but I am thinking it is not necessary any more!) Food for thought!:)

May take you up on that - if it doesn't start in the morning Mike....Cheers.

Just been for a blast in the Zed to test the brakes, so I was doing a series of acceleration/ heavy braking blasts. All seemed spot on, but on the way back I just got the impression the car wasn't giving me full power, even though boost gauge shows full swing. Pulled on the drive, popped the bonnet to check my handy work, all looked good then all of a sudden the engine cut out. No hesitation, just like I had turned the ignition off. All the dash lights were on, tried to restart, no joy....code 21 recorded. Suspecting PTU... Any thoughts?? Only job I've done today is change the brake booster, I have checked all the vacuum lines/connections in that area, but suspect this fault is unrelated to any work I've done. Cheers....

Only 6500miles over 2 years!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320389081268&ssPageName=ADME:B:BODO:UK:1 Seems excellent value & the seller has excellent reputation, sells parts for Supra's & GTO's as well. Cheers!

When you say just drop the rear boxes, do you mean just remove them from the hangers and let them suspend to give enough room to remove the bar? Sorry if that sounds dum!

Hi Guys, I'm looking to fit a UK spec rear ARB in place of the original Jap spec one. Can it be done without removing the exhaust? I know the droplinks will need replacing at the same time. I'm just wondering how hard/easy this will be. Cheers:duffer:

This is correct, cars traded in under the scheme MUST be scrapped and cannot be traded on. I've heard one or two dealers have not done this, have been busted and heavily fined!

Broken spring?

Contact Car.Mad

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=127926

Its no wonder the Zed is worth pence these days.