turbocraigy

Hope so!

Hi, does anyone know if you can use bolt on spacers with standard UK spec alloy wheels? Do the wheels have recesses at the back to accept the spacer studs? Cheers!

I use millers 10-40XSS - semi synth. Have read many good reviews about millers. Price is quite reasonable as well. I change it frequently and its always pretty clean. IMO I don't think the super duper stuff is necessary especially if you change often. When I had my car serviced at Zedworld a couple of years ago, they used Magnatec 10w40 semi-syth and was told this spec is all that's needed.

For the record, I had not seen your response, before I posted (i was obviously thinking it out). I was not disputing you...Geez! Based on chip and boost increase to around 14psi only, power rise you could perhaps expect 340-370bhp (flywheel) depending on condition and fine tune of your car. Pushing boost to 15psi will be stretching the injectors to max which is not ideal.

No all turbos the same across all markets. But the manual cars come with a slighter larger unit as apposed to the auto car which has a slightly smaller unit to decrease lag and give alittle more torque to cope with the autobox The most you can run at a push is 15psi & thats with a 'chip' to increase fueling, anymore than 15psi and bigger injectors are req'd to deliver even more fuel and again a different 'chip' set to run more boost and bigger injectors! It is said that much after 15psi the turbos loose their efficiency at which point turbo upgrading is the step.

£3000 should get you a very good (but not perfect) LWB TT targa top. Look in the for sale section here. Insurance should be less than a £1000 - get some quotes. Expect to invest because thats what happens!! You get a bug and end up constantly tweaking the car to your own liking and improving it! I would think you could get a SWB TT for £3k, but you'd get a better LWB for the same. IMO!

Superglue worked fine for me, I would becareful if using double sided tape, because if too thick you will cause the needle to stick and this is why you are sticking the dials down! You don't need a lot of glue, just a spot here and there. You should be able to see where the dials aren't sat flat on the originals - place a spot there.

What do you mean? I can or can't use the bolt ons?

The old faces stay in place because you can't slight them off the needles.

One tip for you - put a little glue between the old dial faces and the new faces in a few places or you will find the needles stick. Do NOT take the needles off! Don't get any finger print marks on the inside of your lens or it'll drive you mad when you put it together again and you notice!! Take the live supply from the back of the speedo unit like you would for a speedo convertor, but obviously from the dash light wire switch live. And try to conseal the little transformer because they give off this slight high pitch noise which varies with the fader and can be quite obvious and annoying!

I have 2 pair of bolt on 15mm spacers, just trying to figure if they will work with them and get an idea of the stance. I have read conflicting answers, but I think the fronts are 7.5xET35 and rears are 8.5xET45 Anyone got a definate answer?

I don't know, I'm looking at buying some....

I thought the rears were different again, because the UK wheels are wider?

Hi Guys, need to know what the offset of the UK standard alloys are. I have searched, but can't come across a definate answer. I assume the fronts are 7.5inch wide, offset?? Rears are 8.5inch wide, offset?? Cheers...

They are probably just an upgraded bulb part filled with Xenon gas to give a 4500k white light, but still only 55w. Or they could be some upgraded "off road" bulbs that are either 80 or 100w! Some shops sell them, I have used them b4 (not on Zed), but of course at 80/100w use more power than the wiring etc is rated for so could damage other components. This is what I have fitted to my car (55w upgraded bulb), noticed a slight improvement. I bought them from DTA at £11/pair. You have the real deal with your kit, they are supposed to be much brighter, but without using more power!

No problem -always glad to help.

Hi mate, could you possibly email me regarding the sale of your GTR calipers? How much are you looking for them? Cheers. gcknowles@btinternet.com

It is simple. Remove the bumper indicator units (2 little screws and pull away - you'll figure it) then you can access the side/fog unit from behind. There are 3x10mm nuts holding each light in. Remove these and the units will come out. Unplug the harness then you will need to split the lights (4corner screws) to get access to the bulbs. Make sure they seal together again ok to stop water getting in. (I bought new ones).

very often the pedals need drilling then bolting on, this can be fiddly, but if done correctly works the best. Some pedal covers clamp on - forget these, they are useless and often over time slip out of place - assuming you can get them to fit at all - I have binned a set before now trying to get them to fit! These are the ones I have fitted... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MOMO-Stealth-Basic-Pedal-Extension-Set_W0QQitemZ130338522035QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item1e58c803b3 IMO they have helped brighten up the interior and I don't have any slippage issues, but I have fitted them properly. These particular ones fit well, like I said I have binned cheaper sets and these ones don't have rubber or colour to fade or wear. You need to be patient & reasonably flexible to do this job correctly. HTH

I think the same as you! And my Zed is very reliable also.

If you want a bomb proof hot hatch, yes they are excellent cars with excellent engines. More reliable than a Zed, I'm sure. But then they are pushing out 'only' 200bhp and come from a different generation. Agree with Si - they look like vans! The Astra is a great car too - I had a 53reg GSI Turbo - remapped, exhaust & filter. Rolling road tested at 250bhp/280Ib/ft And it was bomb proof with it, would never hammer my Zed like I did the Astra. The CTR is also a very hard ride & quite right you need to rev the nuts off it to make it quick. Torquey they are not.

As above - 22mm main flow & return circs, with 15mm to each radiator. You might need to lift floor boards to check the main circ size. What size are the pipes leaving the boiler? How many radiators have you got? I have seen many systems piped up incorrectly and they work adequately.... If all of your rads get nice and hot, but your house is still cold then you need more rads and/or to look at draught proofing, insulation, windows etc...

Personally, I see NO risk at all from your offer. There is nothing to lose at this stage. Great offer mate, Craig should give this some serious thought, will save him a fortune.

2nd hand?? New?? Stock?? Aftermarket?? 2nd hand - try ebay breakers or members on here. New - try the traders on here, Zcentre.co.uk, again Ebay.

Maybe this was a LHD car with a right hand conversion done, but they have left the handbrake section alone. Or its a doctored picture.