turbocraigy

I have owned my ZX for just over a year now, although its my 2nd car and doesn't get used too much, it hasn't so much as missed a beat when used. It was fully serviced just after I bought it, chipped+boost jetted to 14.5psi! I have had the odd problem though, but they were all self-inflicted by ME messing around! Reading this forum can cause paranoia, makes you think that all 300zx's break down, leak or just run badly all the time. Same on all forums with all cars. Concentrated reporting of problems.

Its not forced to be a straight swap for a UK clock because the connectors on the back of the cluster change thru the ages of the car. If you get a UK cluster, you might be lucky and it fit straight in, but if not you can just fit the speedo section of the cluster into your Jap spec unit and all will be OK! That is what I had to do! To remove the speedo portion, you have to remove the 7 screws (boost gauge attached to speedo portion) from the back of the cluster.

Yes, I couldn't make any sense of the opener either. I can only think he's had a 240z and a Jag, now he's got a 300zx and needs some pointers under the bonnet etc. Lets face it when anyone new sees the Zeds engine bay, they normally get a fright!

Its a personal taste thing really. I like the 350Z, but love the 300ZX! IMO, the 350Z is a mass appeal sports car, built to a price, but by todays standards it gives nothing special. By contrast the 300ZX is a 90's Supercar, built when Japan was trying to prove that they could make one! At the time it was super clever (still is really), very expensive and Nissan threw all the latest at it. Thats why nearly 20 years later it can still hold its own! Think about - 20 years ago - 3litre Twin Turbo+VVT+4WS (0-60 5.5, 155mph) Absolutely brilliant! Remember it was one of the Power 3 (300zx, Supra, 3000GTO) each firm wanting to make theirs the best! I don't think there is a modern mainstream replacement for it yet, the 350Z is not it. Still the 350Z is a lovely car with the advantages of being newer such as multi airbags, better crash protection, probably better reliability etc. Either way, there are no losers....

I bought some clear lenses off Ebay and ruined one of my rear light clusters trying to pry it apart. I had got the cluster nice and hot, but the glue substance was still very sticky and I damaged the plastic pulling it apart. The glue is very messy as well and its easy to get it on the new clear lense. I ended up buying the OEM 99 spec brand new from the States. They worked out at £200 included taxes & delivery (center panel not included). My original center panel was refitted and does not stand out badly against the new ones at all. At least I tried! I'm sure the conversion works for many, but not for me & I've read on this Forum others have failed too. Just offering another spin on this topic.

Yes, if you get a series 1 uk clock set it should be a straight swap. Not sure if a series 2 clock set will fit straight in though, so best try to source one the same age type as your car. Search in the Trader section on here, look for SWZ parts, there were some uk series 1 clocks for sale just a couple of weeks ago. HTH

Yes, its a series 1. Good luck!

Just another mention though, I am fitting UK clocks to my car and doing away with the convertor because powersteering, HICAS and autobox are all speed sensitive. The convertor fools their ECUs into thinking the car is going slower than it is which MIGHT effect the steering (make it lighter), gearchanges on autos and HICAS steering. This is because it is the speedo cluster that provides a speed signal to their control units and the speedo is effectively fooled into reading 1/3rd slower and then you just put a MPH sticker on. This I add, is just what I think. I have done a lot of searching in this forum and I am not the only one. I have also checked the circuit diagrams relating to the speedo, steering and autobox and they show that speed sensor feeds speedo, speedo then feeds the various ECUs. My car runs fine with the convertor in, but I find my steering very light, I have never felt my HICAS work and my autobox does make some funny decisions on when to change and I think the convertor is the cause. Like I said, not a problem as such, just not as Nissan intended. Plenty of people though do run with convertors without fault. Search 'speedo convertor' and 'convertor problems' sift through and make your own mind up.

That just leaves the red and green wire to use. On my unit these have lugs crimped on them. The actual speed clock is held in the cluster by 4 screws that also form part of the circuit. The red wire connects to the bottom screw with the lug and the green connects to the right hand screw (the one nearest the center of the cluster if you like). Feel free to ask any more questions if this doesn't make sense, but I'm assuming that you have the same setup. It MIGHT be different if you have a series 1 or 3/4 car.

Right, at the back of the speedo there are 3 main connectors, 2 together on the LHS and one on its own on the right. The connector used on mine is the top LHS connector. On that connector there is a yellow wire with blue stripe. That is the one to cut. Connecting yellow to the loom end and blue to the connector end, effectively putting the convertor in series with this wire. Again this is how it is on my car, an import TT auto series 2 (1993)

That could be difficult, because of the differences between convertors etc BUT: Red - 12v supply from back of clock. Green - Earth taken from back of clock. Yellow - speed convertor input from loom (cut wire and connect to loom end) Blue - speed convertor output (connect to the cut wire going to connector) Grey/white - don't know, on my example it is taped up. I believe the wire to cut is yellow with blue stripe, again, it is on my example. I do stress though, that this is how it is on my example, it is not forced to be the same on your car. I have an import auto TT. HTH

Just to add to this, I've emailed Zcenter regarding this issue and have just received the reply. This is cut and paste of the response and backs up my thoughts. "Hi, Mine and all speedo convertors will affect all speed sensitive devices like hicas etc. If you use a uk speedo then you will be in mph but all speed sensitive devices won't be changed but you still have limited top speed. Regards Luke." Like I said though, its not that they cause a problem, it just that the car won't act or feel quiet like Nissan intended. That said some people make so many changes with aftermarket this that and the other, the car is very different anyway. I just want a way of converting to MPH, but keeping the steering feel and HICAS responses as they were intended.:) Looks like the only sure way for me is a UK cluster. And thats the most expensive option!:eek:

Thanks for all your replys so far Guys, what I've read so far is that its NOT that the convertor boxes will CAUSE a problem, its just that the computers that control the powersteer, HICAS and even autobox will be getting a signal from the speedo that is approximately 2/3rds the real speed and so give lighter powersteering and the HICAS will not operate as Nissan intended if at all. Like I said, those with convertors already fitted, might not know any difference because their cars have always felt like they do. The 4 wire convertors are surely to be this way, but I know there are some 5 wire convertors, I wonder if the 5th wire is a 1:1 output (unchanged) if you like and this is to be connected to the speedo output wire that goes the powersteering, HICAS and autobox ecu's giving a real speed operation. Any more thoughts?:o

Hi Guys, I am looking to convert my Jap spec clocks to MPH and I'm confused as to which is the right method of doing it. I have searched endlessly through the forum and get a mixed opinion on the matter. Some say that the convertor boxes that fit to the speedo behind the dash can cause the steering to be too light and also effect the HICAS because the ecu's think the car is going slower than it is. Makes sense I know. Looking at the circuit diagrams this certainly seems the case. Then some folk say that they have fitted the convertor box with no apparent issues. I also know that a resistor can be changed, but I'd rather source a UK cluster or fit a convertor. Can anyone conclusively tell me if a convertor at the back of the speedo DOES effect the steering and HICAS, I know that if it does, you can live with it, but I want the car to be spot on. Cheers:D

Search this site:- http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk Then look up the 300zx..... The front dipped beams are different on the import 300zx though, They are a H3C bulb. I'm not sure what size the main beam bulbs are - I've not had a look. A THINK, the fogs are a H3, they are on my car, but I'm not sure if they were also H3C's, but were converted to H3's. The rest of the bulbs on the site e.g. rears, sides, brakes etc are as per diagram. HTH! - probably not!:)

Depends on how much clearance you need to gain, if you use 3 or 5mm spacers, the nuts or studs as it were don't need extending. I have 3mm spacers all round and have had no problems. You can buy these spacers from Ebay for a few quid....... If you use more than 5mm spacers then you will need to extend the studs. These kits are available from Ebay as well, but cost a lot more because they are a kit. Specialist 300zx shops such as Zcenter also sell the bigger spacers. Like a said though, if only extending by 3/5mm, buy from Ebay, cheap and no need to extend studs. Have a bounce around and see....... HTH:)

Absolutely, I don't accept it any of my cars unless its a work vehicle, drives my girlfriend nuts when I'm leaning all over the place tapping trim to locate a rattle - on the move!:o

And I really miss the engine braking!

I agree! Autos aren't for racing, even though I own a TT auto, which is very quick, a manual is direct and fully controllable, not to mention the lower ratios and extra gear. The auto, although very good, can easily catch you off guard and I find the ratios too tall for racing easily. I for one will be converting next year:D I'm sure there will be moments that I miss the auto over the manual, but not many:o

^^DITTO! Have managed to hunt down most of my annoying rattles & squeaks. Things like the door cards and other trims have been taken off a time or two before - fitting speakers/alarms/repairs. I have found trim with broken or missing clips and so fixed or replaced as needed. Just recently had the door cards off and put all new panel clips in, things like this help. A tip for anyone....the card panel clips are the same as Vauxhalls, I bought 10 for £1.50 (cheaper than Nissan dealers). Also the common bonnet squeak issue can be down to the bonnet stops in that they are too old and are squashed. Adjusting them to fully out didn't help me, the bonnet still sat low against the wings and was allowed to move enough to squeak embarrassing so as driving slow up the road! I found the bonnet stops from Rover 75's perfect and still readily available, the genuine Nissan ones are hard to get, in fact I was told now obsolete. And now after a little hard work, it is all pretty tight, with just the odd rattle over bad broken road.:headvswal