turbocraigy

Since they are brand new I would definately leave them alone, they are very expensive and if you split them and cock it up you won't be happy! Personally I like the standard look anyway.

I shall stick with the good old OEM parts me thinks.....

Andy is not at these workshops anymore. I called in on Friday, the workshop is all closed up. A chap from the next unit told me he as moved on to Parkgate in Rotherham (10mins away). I got directions, but when I got there, still no sign of him, still setting up I think.

Those performance stats are for the NA car. Strange. And the auto box is a 4 speed box, well actually 3 speed + over drive which then locks up which seems like a 5th but isn't.

Has the boost been raised on your car? If so then maybe you are hearing normal turbo whistle, apparently the 300zx TT has the nick name Flying kettle because of its excessive whistle. Don't know how much truth there is in that though. My car whistles loudly coming on to boost, but my boost has been raised.

Right, just an update on this. I bought the delay device from ebay..... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Interior-Light...1%7C240%3A1318 Dead easy to fit after I looked at the wiring diagram! Removed the interior light unit & unplugged it. I connected the red wire from the device to the green wire of the light and the black from the device to the black wire of the light. I used scotch tap connectors to join the wires, then plugged the light back into the car harness and hey presto....the light stays on when the door is closed for about 12 seconds then quickly fades to off! Wiring at the light :- Brown - 12v to bulb Green - switched earthed via a relay operated by door switch Black - permanent earth for when light is switched to ON All the box does is keep the light earthed for 12 seconds after door is closed. A nice simple mod that just updates the car a bit and I find really useful. Cheap as well!:)

Dam, I'm too slow!

I think that is the cruise control cancel switch. There is one on the brake pedal as well. As soon as the pedal is touched, it should be set so the switch 'breaks' and cruise control is canceled. I would have thought that it should be in 'series' with the brake pedal switch so if either pedal is touched the circuit is broken and CC unlatched.

It was punishing you for being clumsy!

Or just unplug it like I did. Not caused any problems doing this.

I'm sorry to rave an old thread up here, but I'm trying to install one of these! Could anyone that as fitted one please explain how you fitted this for me? I want to fit it to the interior light as apposed to the door switch. There are 3 wires to the light. 12v permanent (for the on constant position) Black 12v switched (for the door operated on/off) Green Earth - Dark Brown. I am confused because the door switch operates a relay some where, I can hear it clicking when I press the door switch. Why would a simple interior light need to be relay driven??:confused: I'm normally very good with things like this, but I can't get my head round it.:rant: The unit in the link has 2 wires, 1 is supposed to fit to the switched earthed of a light and the other directly to earth?

To me the standard look is best, with very minor mods such as clear indicators and a new set of wheels just to finish the job off.

Nothing wrong with a Veccy VXR! They really are rather rare as well. How did that perform? - out of interest.

I used to own a ZT 260 (4.6 v8) with X power exhaust....it sounded just like that last half. I miss that noise! Every body looked when I was motoring!

Did it pull to the left before the work was done? Or after the brakes were changed, but before the tracking was done? Or after the tracking was done (unlikely I know cos that's why it was taken there!) Assuming its after the brakes were done....take it back to Zedworld again...... If it pulled to the left before the work was done, then obviously the brakes were never the issue and further (chargeable) investigation is required. Good luck Fella.

30mm total track adjustment.....15mm each side.

Also, the pictures of your car on your rides section - the front wheels, was these pictures taken when the offset was ET25 or ET20? Its very hard to tell.....

FunkySi - If you are running ET35 with 9.5 on the rear, then in theory if I fit 8.5 ET23 on mine, I should have very slightly more outer clearance than you? Do you have any rubbing issues at all? Cheers for you help:)

FunkySi - I have 18inch wheels 8.5j, ET38 all round..... If I fit these 15mm spacers to my car it would make my all round new offset ET23 right? In your opinion, would this new offset give a good stance, but not cause any rubbing/clearance problems? Any other suggestion welcomed, except new wheels! Thanks in advance....

Have you tried POTN.co.uk They sell Eibach Pro spacers.....I believe the spacers for the 350Z fit the 300zx, but you'd had to call to find out.

That's my colour!

Based on this website. http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator Input 265/35/18 click on compare tire sizes. (doesn't recognise 265/30) Conflicting opinions! Always a bugger.

Yes.....it will stretch safely up to a 10.5 inch rim The current 9 inch rim is the recommended minimum, 10.5 the recommended max. 10 inch should be bang on! HTHs

Like I said, my shocks are brand new (o miles done), yet one is faulty causing a very regular clunking noise at the turret top. Other than the clunk though, they seem perfect, but I'm not putting up with that....its faulty.:cry: It might not be your shock/s, but unless your upper seat rubbers are really shagged (mine were quite good really) I wouldn't have thought the clunk was from them. Good luck!:) Keep us posted with on this - its always good to know the cause of these problems for future reference.:duffer:

Have you checked your shocks? I have just changed my suspension over, didn't have any clunking before with the old stuff, then when I put the new stuff on I was/am getting clunking from the rear left turret which can be heared by pushing down on that corner and when driving! My old upper rubber seats look a little worn, but fine. Any way I removed the shock and I have definately got play on the shock shaft (brand new!) To test, push the shock shaft about haftway in, then quickly as poss move the shaft up and down an inch....pronounced end play and a clunking noise indicate faulty shock.... This is whats wrong with mine and the sound is amplified through the car when fitted!