turbocraigy

Could just be air in the system though. Good luck:)

I know what you mean! The only problem being bugs. I have just wash a billion off my car 2nite because of my Night drives! I'm glad you're really in to your Zed again:)

http://www.zparts.com/zptech/articles/maintenance/tl_z32clutch/Z32_clutchadj.html

Yikes! So sounds like pedal hasn't been adjusted for the new clutch and so pressure is still been applied to the clutch and under hard acceleration is slipping due to not have full force of the pressure plate. Use it very little until its sorted and if you have to, gentle acceleration. Shouldn't be a long job, just fiddly pratting around under the dash. I think there's a 'how to' on this Forum.

Sure its not slipping due to incorrect adjustment? other than that a new clutch should make no difference to your acceleration. Maybe you have another problem such as a boost leak? Can's see them having to remove any vacuum hoses though. Are you sure you have a problem or does it just feel very different now you have a new clutch? Difficult to help you with really from how you describe it. Wheel spinning or the clutch still depressed? Worlds apart really. If the engine revs are rising to rapidly, but the acceleration is not matching it then that will be clutch slip due to incorrectly adjusted pedal. Obviously you would know if you are wheel spinning.

Try Zedworld first. This Forum is littered with nothing but praise for Jeff + team. Just scroll through a few pages of the technical help section and see!

Of course the gearbox could be worn out. But generally they are very strong, worth an oil change 1st to eliminate first and a lot cheaper. New boxes are around £2000, 2nd hand between £200-400, but come with a risk. Cost of springs and shocks - Expect to pay around £500 then its up to you how far you go because all the little extras add up such as new shock boots, upper rubber mounts, bump stops etc and they really add up! I have just overhauled my suspension and including all the extras its added up close to £1k - But this is all part of my goal to restore my Zed to as close to new as possible, but with some subtle modifications. That cost of was just for parts - I fitted it all. Check out Zedworld website, they will supply and fit Fronts shocks for £300 and rear shocks for £190. This is +VAT and not including new springs. Check out Zcentre website for prices, you can buy a user manual for the car on there. Don't think it covers the stereo, can't help with that one. Rip it out and fit a new unit. Ebay is littered with 2nd hand parts such as radio antennas etc and breakers you can email for specific items you may find missing. New parts - MJP are good, Zcentre are good, but unfortunately I have been using CZP in America because they can't be beaten on price. Parts are so much cheaper from over there. I have made 3 recent large orders, all delivered within 7 days AND cost working out at just over 50% of what it would cost coming from UK! I think for you, a trip to the well recommended Zedworld (Tamworth) for a full appraisal maybe worth it

Great news bud!

Hello and welcome! Firstly, where are you in the UK as obviously there are specialists dotted around the country. The air control/air con pod - there were 2 types. Generation one was automatic directional flow (hi/low button for fan speed), but no manual control for direction. Generation two gained full control (fan speed button that cycled round from 1 to 4 speed and another button for direction) I guess you have type one and are wondering how to alter from face to screen etc - you can't its automatic. To turn off air con I press ECON button, pressing auto allows air con to operate depending on your temp setting etc. The handling - probably ready for an overhaul (new springs shocks and maybe some bushes). Also the Import NA car had the smallest rear anti roll bar so will lean more than the others in a corner. This can be changed for the UK TT bar or an aftermarket type. The engine - hard to know if you have a problem, but I would expect it to be quicker than a 280 auto Merc with 165k on the clock-so probably. Despite what some say though, the TT is much faster than the NA...as it should be! Cruise control - Right hand pod - if you got it, will have a button. And on the steering wheel some buttons for the operation of it. Sounds like you don't have it. MPG - mid 20's to very low 30's if driven very nicely on motorway. Gearbox - maybe time for an oil change with some very high quality stuff. Try the search button on this Forum, it is packed with threads covering most aspects and generally very useful. Good luck mate:)

Also does not effect cruise control at all.

Timing jumps to 15 with the neutral switch, when in any other gear at idle neutral switch is out of equation and timing is 25. It doesn't effect the running of the car at all. The timing of the car is forever changing when driving anyway, but obviously base timing should be set to 15 to start with and this is done with a timing gun and car in neutral with a functional neutral switch. Basically without a neutral switch, the idle will be around 850 - should be 750, but thats with the timing at 15 (neutral switch operated). To correctly set a car up (base idle and base timing) without a working neutral switch I believe you need to short pin 47 at the main ECU to earth and this is the same thing as the neutral switch operating. Engine should be warmed through too. Then once base timing is 15 and base idle is 700 (idle valve electrically disconnected with either consult/datascan or unplugged) car is set up. Then when the idle valve is reconnected idle should be around 750, then when you un-earth pin 47? idle will be around 850 because timing jumps back to 25 Hope this makes some sense! But basically you can have a perfectly healthy car without a neutral switch! Many auto-manual conversion are running like this.

Its part of the climate control system. One of the sensors for it.

The automatic gear change is completely separate with relation to the turbos. It changes gear according to engine revs/throttle position, for example a full throttle will make the car rev much higher before a gear change because the computer is assuming you want to make rapid progress. Where as part throttle will make the computer assume you are having a steady ride and change gear much sooner. The turbos have nothing to do with it. Don't think about it too much, just select D for Drive and use the throttle and brake to your liking, the car and computers do the rest. As for buying an auto, I bought a really good example of an auto then converted it. As apposed to buying a shed like manual. If you can buy an excellent manual though, do that. If you find an excellent auto at a great price then I would buy & convert. But it would have to be excellent.

I paid £184 for a Exedy clutch kit from Ebay...have been ragging the car around since and have not had a problem. Depends on your application/upgrades etc, but my car is running 14psi, supporting induction kit & aftermarket exhaust. There are a few others that have bought the same kit and also had no issues. HTH

Just had my car converted to manual - was done by Phil in Manchester. My 2nd hand parts were the box, pedal box & booster. EVERTHING else was brand new....this made his job a lot easier and as a result no problems at all. As for the transformation.....100% better. It is now a proper car, feels like a proper car, drives & sounds better too. It is a little quicker in most areas, but NOT all I would say. Can't beat the 50mph auto kick down. And although statistically faster 0-60 (the manual), it is hard to beat the autos stamp and go acceleration which is consistent. I know the conversion costs a lot in relation to current values, but hey, we don't own 300zx because they make economic sense do we?! As for the insurance, I have just had my renewal and it made no difference to the premium. Basically, if you can afford it and you still really like the car, the conversion is worth the money 100% Resale value? I would say increase slightly as manuals are more wanted. As long as its done properly and good parts are used with reciepts to prove the work, it won't put off a buyer. IMO!

Check there is a fuse in the A/C fuse slot! When I bought my car the A/C didn't work - there was no fuse in the holder. Put a fuse in and it blew straight away - turned out to be the clutch coil - gone short circuit....£35 later, job sorted...ice cold air. Just another idea:)

Another 300zx bites the dust....buy it, scrap it.

I can't understand why people will spend so much money on body kits and so on making their cars look cheap & tacky, instead of using that money to restore an old 300zx to its former glory all be with some TASTEFUL updates (99spec lights, leather re-trim etc). Each to their own as suppose.:smash: I have spent a fortune on my car now, inside & out, but it looks more a less completely standard. But a MINT completely standard!

I will be cringing all the way through this. Lets hope that they are positive about the ZX. Must agree with Si though, rather the car wasn't spot lighted in this way... a 1500 quid banger coupe. The 5th gear feature using the 300zx as a cheap alternative to a Lambo LP640 is more like it! IMO.

The series 1 controls do not allow full directional control, the series 2 controls do and instead of having a high and low button you have a fan speed button which toggles thru 4 speeds and a direction button...face,floor, face+floor, screen+floor, screen etc etc... So depends on the year & series of your car.

Yes that sump looks like it rotting nicely, get that cleaned up and protected before it goes through....or you will have a proper leak!

Do you have a small oil leak? The common one being from the rear main seal. It drips on the gear box runs down and when driving gets blown on to the red hot exhausts. Then when you later pull up you can smell it burning off..... I had this and I will say the leak was only very small. Replaced the leaking seal when my manual conversion was done.

I don't have any problem with this. Have you tried not squeezing the trigger all the way hence slowing down the fill rate - this usually works... Also top end of stock TT is apparently around 160mph unrestricted. Maybe a touch higher.

Yes. Sorry Mike, no odd jobs for you just yet! You gonna get yours back on the road this weekend?

Sorry to hear this, but this is exactly why when I changed my suspension I used new OEM springs......these cars are already fairly low down and I don't want to make it unusable. In fact today my car only just got into the MOT bay because the front is so low and like I said - its standard height.... Will those Eibach springs make the difference. They drop 20mm all round. You would soon sell your others on Ebay.