AndrewG

Look for the GCZ32 group (2+2 TTs) in the first colum, then the date range (9901 to 9912 or beyond) and the sum the VIN range for each month you are interested and sum that the lot up.

This should help: https://z32enjoytheride.files.wordpress.com/2015/09/z32-jdm-production-numbers.pdf

I would probably assume that both fuel pump and starter are wired into the two immobilisation circuits. There are two relays inside the M999T (see first page of instructions) which make and break the circuits. You could pull the two fuses 3A and 20A (see page four of intructions) and see if that disables the alarm and sets the immobiliser relays to closed allowing the starter motor and fuel pump to operate. Otherwise you can join the two groups of black immobiliser wires together inside each of the red circles below to remake the two circuits.

This any use? http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2549845/I-have-one-solenoid-and-you-only-need-one-if.html

Sold for $46,000. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1994-nissan-300zx-twin-turbo-4/

If you do decide to cut them back make sure the wires (harness side) are scraped back to clean copper. When I did mine I found that the solder joint wouldn't take and left a dry joint.

Delicious!

The diagram shows that it is a continuous run between the ECU and PTU (no connector shown) for the runs. There is no corrosion on the ECU/PTU connector pins (dark dull surface)? You might also want to check that the ECU plug is properly seated, take it off and carefully plug back in. Whilst it's off check pin 1 for damage and the harness join You could also run a test wire from ECU pin 1 (test clip onto to the harness wire) to the PTU pin 1 to see if that clears the continuity problem. Have a word with Jim@PZ on his views on WS vs OEM harnesses (nine is OEM). Both WS and OEM are only available in LHD form which can be fitted to a RHD car with a small amount of extra harness by the firewall tucked away. Z1 also make their own LHD engine harness, again see if Jim has an opinion on them as he sources lots of parts from Z1.

Just so you know the arc that the outer joint of the FUCA travels in two planes as the vertical link travels up and down. This is not commonly understood even by aftermarket parts manufacturers. It is one of the reasons that Nissan used compliant bushes to allow for the twisting of the link as it moves up and down and the reason for the flanged nuts and bolts.

I picked it up as the OEM parts have a flanged bolt head and nut to distribute the load at the fixing points which is considerable.

That "silver" bolt is just temporary?

You might still be able to get the Cusco Japan (part #249 561 A) version (which I bought many years ago). Pricey for what it is. https://www.nengun.com/cusco/brake-cylinder-stopper https://www.rhdjapan.com/cusco-brake-cylinder-stopper-bcs-kit-z32.html Installed (not my car).

That master cylinder brace works for RHD cars?

SpecialtyZ, CZP or Z1 in the States can supply the kit. I've fitted it and it works fine.

Now $35,000 with 5 days to run.

I used the fitting from an old Hozelock garden sprayer. But something like this would do (to suit the internal diameter of the hose going to the Honda pump).

I did just that with a JDM washer bottle. I used a Honda Stream head light washer pump to keep the headlight washers (required for MOT).

Currently up for auction with bidding now at $27,000 with 6 days to run a very clean low mileage example. How high will bidding go? https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1994-nissan-300zx-twin-turbo-4/

Much better solution. http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2421113/I-do-not-recommend-blow-off-valves-on-the-Z.html

Not a problem Richard, you just need to pack something like this in your boot - a fossil fueled EV Mobile Charger. Don't leave home without one!

I think your car is telling you something Alex.

For Nissan parts you can try the zcentre.co.uk or www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk who source directly from Nissan stocks. Both are well known to the Club's members. You can also source parts directly from Japan from the likes of https://jp-carparts.com who ship parts fast to the UK. Again well known to members. It is also worth checking the US suppliers https://conceptzperformance.com and www.z1motorsports.com/ who can often have parts at a discount (even with shipping and duty). Both are reliable suppliers. If you need to confirm part#s before ordering I can help you with that.

Perhaps the market is firming up for nicely modified cars using quality parts. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1991-nissan-300zx-twin-turbo-38/

For reference, these are the relevant pages from the FSM on fuel pump system: efec 26.pdf efec 151.pdf Do you know that the stock fuel pump is not working? Tried connecting a fused 12v and GND to it directly (see diagram in efec 151 for pump's 12V and GND connection)? The relay will click on for 1 second on ign sw to ON (see efec 26). You might want to check the wiring between the ECU, FPCU (follow diagnostic steps in efec 151) Note that the fuel pump operating also relies on the ECU knowing that the engine is turning over derived from CAS signal (see efec 26) Which you have a fault code 11 on.

https://conceptzperformance.com/wiki/index.php/Safety_Mode