AndrewG

Thank you. I've just had a look at their website. I'll order some from their online shop.

Very nice preparation work. Which NeutraRust product was used?

If you contact (adl) phoenix with your VIN he will look it up and tell you when it was made. Mine was born in November '93, but not registered until May '94. I did the PTU upgrade myself.

Whereabouts in London are you?

Had those a while too, very nicely made.

Best wishes on your birthday Rob!

Sorry to read that you have lost your pride and joy. Main thing is that you and others were unhurt. -Andrew

The main reason for the hood "insulation" is for fire supression in the engine bay. Either the plastic fixtures melt or the hood binder material burns off and the hood drops down and acts as a fire blanket to smother the flames. It is not intended to put the fire out but rather delay its progess and give the occupants of the car more time to escape. The hood itself is made from fire resistant fibres. How much time is another matter, but it is primarily there for that purpose.

Do you know what the reason is for it being fitted in the first place?

This site seems to be useful: http://www.dutycalculator.com/popular-import-items/import-duty-and-taxes-for-car-parts/

Don't recall, but it would have been the standard rate on the 'declared' value.

I ordered mine from CZP in the US: http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=944&Car_Type=300&UID=2012102708455986.135.57.148 They also come for sale s/h on here and on ebay.

KYB AGX adjustable shocks and Eibach springs. Popular fitment. Very happy with ride quality and performance. 0.8" drop ride height.

Z32s are now in the Honest John "Classics" guide! http://classics.honestjohn.co.uk/reviews/nissan/300zx-z32/ Apart from the factual errors (can you spot them?) it is nice to see our cars in the guide. The "buying guide" has a good one on manuals vs autos whilst the "running" section has links to both this club and the Zclub. The HJ site also has a section on Z32 MOT results: http://good-garage-guide.honestjohn.co.uk/mot/nissan/300zx You can drill down for each year ('89 to '94) and see failure rates by item on the test. Gives you something to think about before you have your own Zed MOT'd.

Assuming you are running stock calipers, discs and pads then below the split point of the proportioning valve (498psi) the brake bias ratio F/R is 2.1/1 and above the split point the ratio F/R is 3.0/1 The proportioning valve is built into the master cylinder and reduces the hydraulic pressure exerted on the rear caliper pistons relative to the fronts when you apply pressure to the system above the split point. If you like, between light/medium braking and heavy braking.

Well done James!

Eh?

Bunch of AIV delete "how-to's" here: http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?cat.106

Short videos of the Blitz, TBO and JUN Auto teams preparing for the Bonneville Salt flats. They are in Japanese but you can get the jist. Great soundtracks of engines at full chat... [video=youtube;MvKQWP-uHAY]

To quote RaceLogic: "Launch control is a function within the Traction Control system designed to automate standing starts to maximise the initial acceleration. It is activated by pressing a button on the traction adjuster when the car is stationary. This will bring in a secondary rev-limit (for example 4000 rpm). The throttle can be fully depressed without over-revving the engine. The car is put into gear, the throttle floored, and then the clutch is engaged, whilst the launch control system controls the wheelspin and revs for the perfect start. On a turbo charged car, if the launch control is active, and full throttle is given for two to three seconds, the boost pressure will build up before the clutch is released, resulting in stunning off-the-line performance." You can add launch control to the system, by adding a button. The s/w for launch control is present, even on a system sold without it. This thread shows you how: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?168523 Here is the generic install guide from Racelogic themselves: http://www.racelogic.co.uk/images/stories/other-prod/Traction%20Control%20Manual%20v3_2.pdf and for the Z32: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/tech/tc/tc.html -Andrew

You could also try CZP - Concept Z Performance in the US. I've used them before for shipping small parts to the UK and their rates are reasonable. Z1 300ZX Key Cylinder Door Lock Actuator Replacement: http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=8365&Car_Type=300&UID=2013111106143886.173.164.245

Best wishes on your birthday.

Provided there is no salt on the roads and they are dry, I'll take the car out each week or so over winter months. Sunny winter mornings are lovely times to go out for 25 - 30 mile blast and are usually quieter than in the summer. The car is kept in a dry garage and on a battery conditioner at all times (the type you don't need to disconnect the battery). If the weather stops me going out for a few weeks then I will move the car by hand to stop any flat spots developing on the tyres. Some brands seen to be more prone to getting them. If you have mild steel in your exhaust system, then a major cause of failure is internal corrosion from acid moisture produced by the combustion process. You need to drive the car after starting it to get rid of it, otherwise it just sits in the system and does its worst.

Sorry I should have been clearer, if you have aftermarket calipers with two bleed nipples then outer nipple first then inner nipple. Otherwise, as per FSM.