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AndrewG

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    Ukraine

Everything posted by AndrewG

  1. This site seems to be useful: http://www.dutycalculator.com/popular-import-items/import-duty-and-taxes-for-car-parts/
  2. Don't recall, but it would have been the standard rate on the 'declared' value.
  3. I ordered mine from CZP in the US: http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=944&Car_Type=300&UID=2012102708455986.135.57.148 They also come for sale s/h on here and on ebay.
  4. KYB AGX adjustable shocks and Eibach springs. Popular fitment. Very happy with ride quality and performance. 0.8" drop ride height.
  5. Z32s are now in the Honest John "Classics" guide! http://classics.honestjohn.co.uk/reviews/nissan/300zx-z32/ Apart from the factual errors (can you spot them?) it is nice to see our cars in the guide. The "buying guide" has a good one on manuals vs autos whilst the "running" section has links to both this club and the Zclub. The HJ site also has a section on Z32 MOT results: http://good-garage-guide.honestjohn.co.uk/mot/nissan/300zx You can drill down for each year ('89 to '94) and see failure rates by item on the test. Gives you something to think about before you have your own Zed MOT'd.
  6. Assuming you are running stock calipers, discs and pads then below the split point of the proportioning valve (498psi) the brake bias ratio F/R is 2.1/1 and above the split point the ratio F/R is 3.0/1 The proportioning valve is built into the master cylinder and reduces the hydraulic pressure exerted on the rear caliper pistons relative to the fronts when you apply pressure to the system above the split point. If you like, between light/medium braking and heavy braking.
  7. Well done James!
  8. Bunch of AIV delete "how-to's" here: http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?cat.106
  9. Short videos of the Blitz, TBO and JUN Auto teams preparing for the Bonneville Salt flats. They are in Japanese but you can get the jist. Great soundtracks of engines at full chat... [video=youtube;MvKQWP-uHAY]
  10. To quote RaceLogic: "Launch control is a function within the Traction Control system designed to automate standing starts to maximise the initial acceleration. It is activated by pressing a button on the traction adjuster when the car is stationary. This will bring in a secondary rev-limit (for example 4000 rpm). The throttle can be fully depressed without over-revving the engine. The car is put into gear, the throttle floored, and then the clutch is engaged, whilst the launch control system controls the wheelspin and revs for the perfect start. On a turbo charged car, if the launch control is active, and full throttle is given for two to three seconds, the boost pressure will build up before the clutch is released, resulting in stunning off-the-line performance." You can add launch control to the system, by adding a button. The s/w for launch control is present, even on a system sold without it. This thread shows you how: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?168523 Here is the generic install guide from Racelogic themselves: http://www.racelogic.co.uk/images/stories/other-prod/Traction%20Control%20Manual%20v3_2.pdf and for the Z32: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/tech/tc/tc.html -Andrew
  11. You could also try CZP - Concept Z Performance in the US. I've used them before for shipping small parts to the UK and their rates are reasonable. Z1 300ZX Key Cylinder Door Lock Actuator Replacement: http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=8365&Car_Type=300&UID=2013111106143886.173.164.245
  12. Best wishes on your birthday.
  13. Provided there is no salt on the roads and they are dry, I'll take the car out each week or so over winter months. Sunny winter mornings are lovely times to go out for 25 - 30 mile blast and are usually quieter than in the summer. The car is kept in a dry garage and on a battery conditioner at all times (the type you don't need to disconnect the battery). If the weather stops me going out for a few weeks then I will move the car by hand to stop any flat spots developing on the tyres. Some brands seen to be more prone to getting them. If you have mild steel in your exhaust system, then a major cause of failure is internal corrosion from acid moisture produced by the combustion process. You need to drive the car after starting it to get rid of it, otherwise it just sits in the system and does its worst.
  14. Sorry I should have been clearer, if you have aftermarket calipers with two bleed nipples then outer nipple first then inner nipple. Otherwise, as per FSM.
  15. Pre '94 models have two bleed nipples on the ABS unit. Make sure you follow bleed order and procedure as per FSM: http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/br/005.gif You will need to bleed both sides of each caliper, outer nipple first then inner nipple. ABS nipples are marked F and R.
  16. What a small world we live in! That design doesn't work with the standard OEM flasher unit (I've tried). However, I have a prototype that does and simply bridges the existing wiring. The software is not quite right yet, but it works in principle.
  17. Nice article on what is like to drive the IMSA raced 1993 Nissan 300ZX "75" car. Driven by Steve Millen (owner of the Stillen company) and Johnny O'Connell the car developed over 700HP and 600 torques and together with the "76" car dominated the IMSA GTO and GTS categories between '90 to 95'. The article was published in the US Cigar Aficionado magazine in '95: http://www.cigaraficionado.com/webfeatures/show/id/High-Speed-Dreams_7653/p/1 "Coming out of the first turn, a sharp right-hander, I give the car its first taste of octane. For a fraction of a second, it accelerates demonically, like Porsches I've been in, wildly fast, but nothing beyond physical comprehension. Then the turbos kick in. The car leaps up the track, as though it were momentarily airborne. I can hear myself yell "Holy shit!" as the back end searches for traction, propelling me into what seems like another dimension of time. One blink and I'm 100 yards down the track. The whole experience takes about a second..."
  18. Best wishes on your Birthday. How is that UK Zed of yours doing?
  19. Oil coolers were added/upgraded to Euro spec cars after high speed testing by Nissan on German autobahns. The description of the system is here: http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/pd/035.gif Circuit diagram: http://www.300zx.co.uk/tech/manual/manual/pd/037.gif -Andrew
  20. Not necessarily, this is the method I used (it is in Japanese, but you will get the jist): http://www.zcar-owners.net/cgi-bin/diy_bbs/cbbs.cgi?mode=al2&namber=25&rev=&no=0 You can also clean the rear of the projector lens using the same technique. -Andrew
  21. You'd better get a bend on as he is 104!
  22. Stumbled across this picture. If you look carefully, you can see three rows of brand spanking new Z32s ready for loading. "A worker leads a Nissan 300ZX to enter a freighter at the Japanese auto manufacturers pier in Yokosuka, southwest of Tokyo, May 19, 1995. Some 2,800 models were loaded to the vessel for exportation to the United States while three models of the Nissan’s luxury cars were included in the preliminary sanction list. (AP Photo/Hideyuki Yamamoto)" http://www.apimages.com/metadata/Index/Watchf-AP-I-JPN-APHS406519-Japan-Auto-Exports/74672cc44c404bd9bc53c2e2eb9c3823/2/0
  23. Not that they are my cup of tea, but here they are in a full Bomex kit on a SWB:
  24. You might want to check what conditions, if any, were imposed when planning permission was granted. Some local authorities have codes of practice, dealing with hours of work, noise and disturbance etc. You could also check with the local environmental health department on brick/tile dust pollution and contamination. Be certain to take photos of damage, close-ups of sills etc. (time-stamped if possible). Then put your complaint to the builder in writing. State in the letter what you what to remedy the situation (for example, professional cleaning of your property when the work is completed, paid for by them). If you do have to take legal steps for compensation, photos will be essential. Send your letter of complaint through the post, don't just hand it personally to the builder on site or one of his crew. If the builder is reputable they should have public liability insurance to cover this sort of thing, which can help in any claim.

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