AndrewG

Terry, try sending your message in plain English. Most Japanese can read better than they speak it. -Andrew

My post was for a different (and faster) car...

Better.... The car: http://www.specialtyz.com/sz-z32.php

I've used this product before with success: http://www.frost.co.uk/frost-ali-clean-alloy-wheel-cleaner.html I masked off the electrical connectors etc around the plenum and followed the instructions. For rinsing off, I used a water hose set to *very* slow flow (no more than a dribble). Then run the engine to dry off. Didn't have any problems. Plenum came up very clean and bright. -Andrew

That is good news! Roll on for bit of warm and sunny weather and we could organise a meet and run. Remember the old Box Hill to Brighton runs? -Andrew

Different oils for different jobs. Redline has a good reputation - MT-90 Gearbox Oil and 75W90 Differential Oil. Both are fully synthetic. Also make sure your gear leaver dust boot is fully seated. It can become detached and allow gearbox noise into the cabin usually in 2nd and 4th. Items 2 and 11 in diagram: http://nissan4u.com/parts/300zx/el_z32/1992_2/type_1/power_train/transmission_control_and_linkage/ -Andrew

I agree with Steve Burns, and I would go further and ask why has that post been allowed to remain? - it clearly breaks the AUP.

It is?, the GTZ lip doesn't have that dip in the middle section of the lip. -Andrew

Might be worth considering the Whiteline bushes: http://whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=W92446 This chap on TT.net made the following observation re NVH going from stock to WL: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2507176/I-installed-whiteline-subframe-bushings-for-a-customer.html -Andrew

Look again, post #2 - first link... -Andrew

Yes, look at your other thread on this topic... -Andrew

Complete 3" Turbo Inlet Kit for GTX series turbochargers -Andrew

I came across a reference when searching to someone relocating the launch button itself onto their dash, so I figured to do that they must have taken the control unit apart and might have posted a picture... Google --> racelogic control launch button --> and look in Images (scroll down a bit) -Andrew

Here you go (post #19 and on): http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?134803-RLTC-Slip-Launch-control-box-query -Andrew

The clue of how to do this is in this thread: http://www.racelogic.co.uk/Forum/showthread.php?1193-External-Off-switch Need to have a think, but looks like RL have used a resistance ladder to set the traction settings and launch control. The launch switch could be either a normally off or normally on type. -Andrew

Can you take the back off your control unit? I have an idea of how they may doing this with three wires. -Andrew

The other thing to find out is if the TC unit itself has the software required in it to make sense of the switch in the control unit. Fortunately, there seems to be an easy way to find out: http://www.racelogic.co.uk/Forum/showthread.php?907-Traction-controll-Launch-Feature-No-work&p=4107&viewfull=1#post4107 Post #2 "To check to see if it is the button, simply turn the rotary dial to Off and then back to working again, this does exactly the same thing as pressing the switch, so it will eliminate it from the equation" -Andrew

RS Components list compatible T0-220 packaged types: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/igbt-transistors/3546177/?searchTerm=SKP06N60 --> Similar Products Any one with Vce >= 600v and Ic >= 6A. IKP10N60T looks OK. -Andrew

The clip is part # 68749-41L00 http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=4557&Car_Type=NIS300&UID=2013031815470086.129.202.186 http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_info.php?products_id=756 -Andrew

The "Unit under bonnet with the 3 outlets/inlets" is the valve body. What do you mean by "solinoid"? From the valve body have you traced and checked for continuity the red (+ve) and black (gnd) wires back to where they have been spliced into the cars ignition +ve loom and ground point? Do you have 12v on the red wire with the ignition on? -Andrew

Firstly, do you have the installation manual for the EVC 1? http://www.hks-power.co.jp/usa/faq/dd/pdf1739.pdf This picture shows the +ve and ground leads coming from the valve body loom: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Qj9aCPp-ta4/UK4wdPlJjlI/AAAAAAAADQ4/qNuBq3WDcqs/s640/HKSEVC1+4.jpg and the Japanese installation sheet shows the same: http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w81/jdmprov/evc1-1.jpg -Andrew

Historically opinion in the US was indeed single MAF was OK up to 500hp or thereabouts. Jim Selin's work with his dual maf and translator changed that view and now folks in the US now recognise the benefits of seperating the intakes. -Andrew

Just for completeness, on my install valve body port (2) goes to these points on both sides: -Andrew

This is my setup for an HKS EVC 4 valve body hose connections. Blue hoses are T pieced and run then to both sides, black hose runs to plenum: * Don't forget to install the inline filters. and single plenum connection: -Andrew